GTSBoy

The issue here is that the R32 GTR and R33 GTR speedos are both responsible for the actual speed signal that is sent around to all the CUs. The R32 creates it from the mechanical drive. The R33 creates it from the electric sender on the GB. The difference between the 2 types of speed signal (the one for the CUs from the speedo head, and the one to the speedo head from the R33 sender) is that; The speed sender creates an AC +/- saw tooth signal, like any other reluctor style sensor will. This varies in frequency and voltage wtth shaft speed (obviously). The frequency of the zero volt crossings is essentially the speed information here. The speedo head outputs a 0-5v square wave PWM signal. The effective voltage (ie the width of the pulses) is the speed signal here. You cannot feed the raw AC signal to any of the CUs that want the PWM signal. I would like to think that you should be able to get an output out of that dash that will do it. If you cannot, you just need to parallel up a little Arduino based thing on the AC signal and get it to convert that input to the PWM signal that the CUs want. The details of what pulse width corresponds to what speed are in the R32 GTR manual. The details for the speed sender might well be the same as for the R33 GTST, but probably don't matter because you already have to have calibrated your dash from that input anyway, so you should already know what frequency you get at a given speed.

And further thoughts on the subject. R33 GTR seats are also unobtainably expensive these days, and are also 25+ years old. So, it would clearly be better to buy some new Recaros, Brides, Sparcos, etc, with suitable mounts. Sure, it will cost a little more, but once you're spending $3k for 25 year old seats, spending $4-5k for brand new, light, clean, non-farted in seats seems like a no-brainer.

I told you. $4k. There are numerous sources (ie JustJap, Amayama, etc) for R34 gearboxes, at ~$4k. You can't typically buy from Nissan because Nissan don't want to sell them.

Yeah there's no point in choosing things on that list like an old stock ECU, the VL injectors, etc etc, just because they are second hand and therefore "cheaper" than a new alternative. You'd be insane to do anything with a VL ECU and injectors, some 35 years since they were not even at the apex of automotive tech. Decent aftermarket ECU, injectors, fuel pump - that's the base of engine management. It will cost more outright, but A) you will be able to find them, because good luck actually finding the 2nd hand parts anyway, and B) they will work about 10000x better and cost you less in the long run from not having to clean the injectors before you start, replace something 6 months down the track because it let the smoke out, etc etc. Greg's estimate of 20-25 is probably low. If you're paying anyone to do much in the way of labour, like working out how to mount the gearbox, scrounge around among wrecker contacts for bits and pieces, etc etc, then the $$ can rack up much faster than the parts themselves.

'sgot nothing to do with it on an RB20.

You know what BOSE stands for don't you? Buy Other Sound Equipment. Inconsistent performance is part of the brand.

The boost rag strikes again. <Hansel> My uncle was driving his 2004 TD42 Patrol up a hill. Oil pressure light came on, so he shut it down, got it towed home. Diagnosis revealed few if any clues, so the motor came out and came apart. First, but unrealised at the time, clue was that the oil smelled a bit weird. Sump was full of sheets of paint. WTF? He's a completely anal OCD type. Has all his washers sorted into micron thickness bins - that sort of OCD. So, he was able to back trace what he'd done. He changes brake fluid every 6 months (as I said, anal OCD type). He therefore had a small quantity of old brake fluid in a 5L engine oil container. When doing the oil change on the Patrol, immediately prior to the trip that lead to the engine death going up hill, he shook the various oil containers and noted one with a little oil in it - which duly got put in the engine before opening a freshy. Turns out that hot brake fluid is an excellent paint stripper. Took the paint off the inside of the sump and rocker cover in sheets, which plugged the tiny little oil pickup (and would have plugged a huge pickup anyway) and killed the motor. Wrecked a few bearings, so it was rebuild time. After reassembly and reinstall, during which time every conceivable orifice was plugged with a dedicated plastic/rubber cap/plug or a rag (remember, anal OCD) he got it started but it simply would not rev. All sorts of panic ensued wrt pinched injector lines, damaged injector pump drives, etc etc. Turns out that the turbo was installed while the engine was upside down, or somesuch arrangement were the secret boost rag that was blocking the turbo outlet wasn't visible, and survived the anal/OCD/surgeon checklist count of implements inside the patient during reassembly. Boost rag will always get you, even when you are a complete nutcase. He must be losing his touch, as that is 2 terrible mistakes in 1 episode. </Hansel>

How old is the fuel pump? Have you measured the fuel pressure at the rail while the engine is under load? The TPS will not cause what you describe. It will be fuel or ignition.

They don't fit. R34 RWD seats have different bolt hole positions compared to R32 & 3 RWD and GTR. R34 GTR seats don't fit R34 RWD either. So you're shit out of luck unless you want to be cutting up and rewelding the mounts.

RB25DET box would be the obvious choice. But a brand new one is in the area of $4000 now and good 2nd hands ones are not changing hands. Otherwise T56 or Tremec conversion. More money. More money.

A 20B. Made by jamming together 1.5 13B rotaries, for 150% of the fun and pain of 13B ownership. Plus they sound f**king wild.

This, or 3rotor.

And if you turbo an RB30 in front of an old RB30 NA manual gearbox.....the gearbox will not last long. Even at lowish boost. Too much torque for the poor little thing.

When you say "lift it"....do you mean jack it there or put stands under there? If jack, then....maybe. But yes, it does look like a bad place to jack from. You need a strong and stable place to put a trolley jack's bowl. The front crossmember on a Skyline is flat piece of sheetmetal which looks ideal, but it's quite thin. I use a wooden plate a bit bigger than the bowl of my trolley jack with a neoprene pad on top of it to spread the load when I lift there, because again, the bowl of a trolley jack has a rim with 4 f**king teeth on it which is just designed to f**k up sheetmetal. But, if you're planning to jack it from that bad looking spot behind the sump....why not just use the sill jacking points with a scissor jack and then put chassis stands in the sort of place where they make sense? ie, the lower control arm pivots or something equally strong and able to carry weight. If put stands there....hell no. Never put stands close to the centreline of the car, Neither left-right centreline nor front-rear. They should always be as far out towards the corners as you can manage.

No. Go back and read what I wrote. If you put a chassis stand under the pinch weld, then the weight of the car is bearing down on the lower edge of the pinch weld directly onto the flat of the chassis stand. That is not how the lifting point is designed to be used. Contrast that with how the factory scissor jack is loaded onto the lifting point. The pinch weld goes down into a slot in the top of the jack, and the jack makes contact with the lifting point to either side of the pinch. The load is carried by the strong, reinforced part of the sill. Not the weak as piss easy to fold over pinch weld. This is why, as Josh said above, you don't just throw 2 post hoists, or any other sort of lifting device like a trolley jack under the sill jacking points and crank it into the sky either. This because they don't have the correct interface to load the jacking point correctly - unless you place the correct adapter into the interface. Like the rubber block he showed for a chassis stand, but with a big round lower part of the pad to seat on the end of the hoist arm or trolley jack bowl.

Yes. I've not seen them in Australia and I can see your average knob head making a catastrophic f**kup with them.

And in a horrible coincidence, I just had to coach my daughter through jacking her car up to change a tyre on the phone from 2600 km away. I mean....I shouldn't have had to, having previously had her do it in the driveway. But it appears that smashing a tyre on the kerb makes memories of earlier training evaporate. So, I now have a photo on my phone of a 2014 Swift's FR jacking point, if anyone thinks it will help!

No. Never. That's how you f**k up and fold them over. Look at the jacking points and look at the OEM jack that goes there. The weight is not carried on the ridge of the pinch. The weight is carried up higher, on the reinforced plates either side of the pinch, and ONLY at those specific reinforced jacking points, nowhere else along the sill. If you want to put jackstands under the sills, you need to have an adapter that takes the weight either onto those reinforced locations either side of the ridge of the pinch weld. Otherwise the pinch just rests like a knife edge on the horizontal plate on the top of the jack stand. And these adapters don't really exist because they'd be f**king dangerous in the hands of most users. Jack stands go under a suitably flat part of a subframe, or under the lower inner pivots on a suspension arm. Somewhere strong enough to carry the weight without bending. Somewhere that won't slide off of the jack stand.

Or to an RSM or any other doohicky that wanted a speed input.

Time to start some low level fault finding work then. Measure the resistance of the circuits coming off the flasher can, looking for differences between LHS and RHS. Perhaps measure the resistance of individual globes. Maybe one of them has a weird internal short or (more likely) high resistance. Open circuit on a globe is what triggers the fast flash response, so high resistance (but still making some light) might do the same. Perhaps wire up a completely external circuit using the original flasher can and some globes to see if it behaves itself under controlled circumstances. etc etc.

Heel & toe is strictly a 3 pedal technique anyway. What you'd be considering, if anything at all, is left foot braking. That way your concerns about the time required to move foot from brake pedal to throttle as you transition from trail braking to power on go away. I mean, that's something that you'd do an a 3 pedal car anyway, at that stage in the corner. This because at that stage in the corner you'd only need to be using the left foot for the clutch (and hence need to consider heel & toe) to change gears because something had just gone totally wrong (like the clown in front of you spinning across your path, etc).

That's true of the R34s, but only inasmuch as it is also true for engines with a separate igniter. The ECU is not actually connected to the coils at all, on any of them. It is connected to the igniter. So the ECU's diagnostics on the "primary side" is actually only to the transistor that is the igniter. True for both older separate igniters and for integrated igniters. The ECU does not see the primary coil of the coilpack.

There were a bunch of very disappointing R33s brought in with RB20Es. It was hilarious when people bought them thinking that all R33s were RB25!

Flywheel is the same. I would not expect the crank pulley to be the same, and I'm horrified that the 25 you appear to have bought did not have one on it. You might just have to buy aftermarket. Pink sticker AFM, check. ECU? You need one with the right part number. I wouldn't base decision off of sticker colour!

Well, yes, but only really at idle, which, as Duncan said, might not prove anything. A coil can be strong enough to run well at low load and poop itself the minute you add a bit more mixture pressure into the chamber. If you want to do it under load, then the car needs to be on the dyno, and popping a coil loom plug off under load isn't a lot of fun. If you want to pull the coils and/or the plugs, then the crossover is coming off. There's a big difference between reaching in and popping a coil loom plug off and getting the tools in there to unbolt them and pull them up and out.