GTSBoy

Yes. It'll look like shit. That's the definition of fouled. Take the crossover off. It only takes 10 minutes.

Shit, I wouldn't even click the link.

Do eet! It would be the only NA result worth looking at.

And addressing the turbo itself.....T66 making nearly 600HP (so, about 60 lb/min at PR 2.1) is part way from the island to the right hand edge of the compressor map. Somewhere close to 70% efficiency, which is actually a fairly happy spot to run the turbo. If you want another 50 fwhp (as an example of something you might want) you could add a few psi (say 21, PR 2.4) and stay on approximately the same efficiency line, increasing shaft speed by nearly 10000rpm. Seems perfectly doable on the compressor side. I have no idea if the turbine/ex housing will play along. Probably would be fine. If the motor were built to take the cylinder pressures (and there's no mention of head studs or gasket specs in your post) then you should be able to jam 30 psi into it and get very close to maxing out the airflow capability of the turbo, whilst still not getting too hot. That's ~700-750 fwhp, but the boost and shaft speeds required to get there are both a lot larger steps up than the gain from the 1st 4 or 5 psi that you could put into it. You would definitely want a big intercooler, and I agree with the calls above for better injectors. You'd almost certainly want to look at properly controlling those fuel pumps too, because.....damn. That's a lot of heat being put into the fuel.

Yes....well....how long is a piece of string? There are a few indisputable facts, and a lot of supposition. It is difficult to tell these categories apart. Fact. Volume of cars for sale is down. Many who have them realise that if they let one go now, it will be much much harder than it used to be to get another. Fact. Those that are for sale are being offered at very high speculative prices. Some of those are being sold for high prices, which defines the "value" of the others not being sold. Prices are high - higher than comfortable for buying for a daily driver, I would suggest. The maintenance concerns you express are becoming significant - more on that later. If you want to buy one as a low usage "forever car" then the high cost might be more supportable. That's if throwing a lot of money into a car that is not really worth the current prices is "supportable". Also, it all depends on your personal position. If you are earning $200k and have assets and disposable cash out the wazoo, then you can support a lot more vehicular silliness than someone who is balancing a Carnival's worth of kids on a significantly lower income and asset base. Anyone looking to waste money on cars in that situation needs to ponder whether it's a good use of money or not. Maintenance & parts. Good and bad here. 2nd hand parts of the sort required to fix major problems (like accident damage when you get rear ended by Karen in her Sportage) or engines and gearboxes are much harder to find and 3-4 times the price they were a few years ago. It is a sufficient worry for someone like me who already has a car, dailies it, and does not have a sufficiently large stockpile of "survival" parts in the shed. Actual prices? Who knows? I have a 32 GTSt 2dr. I wouldn't part with it for <$30k. If someone offered me $40k right now, I sill wouldn't actually sell it. There's one for sale on carsales for $45. R34s (2dr) should notionally be worth more, simply because newer, slightly better platform, etc. The ones on carsales are very speculatively priced in the 40s, 50s and 60s. 4drs are worth less because they are less cool, but they can't be worth a lot less because they are functionally the same car.

More like low fuel pressure.

Anything over ~150-200 kkm. That's where a well maintained engine starts to show the inevitable signs of increasing clearances in bearings, valve guides, etc.

Maybe not bother with RBs at all and put in a Euro V8, big yank V8, VK56DE, Barra, etc etc. For sure, if I had a bare shell and nothing to start with, I would not start with a bloody RB.

Neo rods are 26 rods anyway. So any aftermarket 26 rod is same same also. The trouble with the Neo is that because they used the 26 rods, they had to have a piston with a 2mm (or maybe it's only 1.5mm) pin height difference so they don't poke out of the block. Those Neo pistons have a different dome (to vanilla 25s and 26s) to work with the ~10cc smaller combustion chamber, to yield approx the same compression ratio as all the previous engines. But you can't use the Neo pistons with the 26 crank.....because then the 2mm stroke difference brings back the deck height problem. So you end up needing to use 26 pistons. But....the 26 pistons are suited to a 10cc larger combustion chamber, resulting in sky high compression. This would commit you to E85, large cams and careful tuning. I haven't done the calculation to work out what the compression would be (well, not in the last 15 years anyway) so can't really tell you how high it would be. I just remember it was "quite high", something north of 11:1 I reckon. The last time I thought about it was pre-E85 in the world, so maybe it's more realistic now. It's not very realistic on 98 though. But, this seems like a complete waste of time. 100cc is an undetectable increase in capacity (4% !!). You would do better to spend money on turbo or headwork. The oil pump drive can be dealt with the on the 25 crank as easily as on any other RB.

There's nothing wrong with the car at all. That rust is nothing. Hang the halo on the bedpost and drive the car. Or completely strip it and factory rebirth it for $200k. Anything in between is almost certainly a waste of time and resources.

Here's how it works. You have a wheel that clears the brakes. You have a wheel that only just doesn't clear the brakes. You also can see and mark exactly where the caliper contacts the wheel. You therefore have two wheels that you can very carefully measure and build a model of in Google Sketchup, or anything similar. You can then mark on that model where the clearance problems lie. You can provide that model to any wheel supplier and get them to tell you which of their wheels are larger (than the caliper, than the CE) at the critical locations. Effort in = reward out.

There would have to be dozens of threads on here for the same thing. Have a decent search. Translation: I know there are dozens of threads on here with links to the pinout diagram. Not to mention, it is in the R32 GTR workshop manual (Yes, even for the RB20) which has been freely downloadable for 2 decades and I recently uploaded some even better scans than those. But I am too tired to do the searching for you.

Do you need a 24V battery charger? It's only 24V. Not 12.

That's actually the problem. It is worth US$80k. In that someone will pay that much for it. In fact, given that the owner seemed to know so little about it, he had probably just paid something like that for it.

Should be same same. And in particular, if you are putting the whole rear subframe in, then even the famous difference between 33 and 34* wouldn't matter . 34GTT is same as GTR (for style shock lower mount), 34GT is same as all previous RWD cars (eyelet style).

I just used the sensor from an EL Falcon or something. It's not rocket surgery, although you do have to put the right connector on it, obvs.

Note, for clarity, he cross posted anther thread that has a photo in it.

There looks to be an ARB in the photo, so....just putting it 4th gear should be sufficient, no?

You just drop the lower dash cover. 4 screws.

Just extend the reverse cowl in perspex up over the windscreen and roof so it sucks instead of blows. Can't look any worse than it does now!

Just for clarity, it's can, not cam. As in, back in the dim dark old days, they were contained in a little steel can. Nowadays they're plastic.

Yes, but are all the bulbs actually working? There is a function built into INDICATOR flasher units to make them flash fast when a globe is out. That is not necessarily replicated in the hazard flasher. And of course, if the bulbs are all fine and working, then the flasher unit is most likely to blame.

The other thread implies that it's a headlight relay for a Cefiro.

It's like, only a week ago that I posted "coupe (rear) seats don't fit 4drs".

The gauge install is horrific. The bonnet doesn't close. There are dents in the bottom of the doors, big scratches on the rear guards, etc etc. She's rough.