GTSBoy

If I had to invent a name, I'd call it "Inner Body Side".

Which part of this sounds like the wrong thing to do? I'd say, almost all of it.

Plenty of people have been doing exactly that in Australia for many years. All it takes is to only fill up at servos with E85. And that is not that difficult. I drive past several such every day. The main pain is the consumption rate and having to fill up more often and stash more jerry cans in the shed.

And, you really want to be over 40% eth, probably 45-50, to realise almost all the benefits. E30 leaves a lot on the table.

Snap

It's also important to acknowledge that the stock Nissan side entry plenums are actually pretty good, and Duncan's first principles basis for laying out the order of leanness might not actually apply. It's also possible that #3 & #4 could get some direct shot at the air because they are directly across from the inlet.

It's because the air comes in over #3 & #4. The two "dead" ends of the plenum are at #6 & #1, with #6 being a little more "compromised" (Sorry about all the quote marks) than #1, due to the shape. So you get the dead end effect at #6 & #1 where dynamic pressure converts to static pressure, likely causing the air flow to be highest for these. The others are then just working in from the ends to the centre. 6 -> 1 is only valid for FFPs.

Absolutely nothing wrong with a Profec or similar. He's on a Nistune, so external boost control is a better option anyway.

Its called the "sail panel". 'Coz it looks like a sail.

Yeah, but what boost. That sounds like 10 psi. There's a bit more available at 12, and the extra is worth the risk.

Yeah - 4 or 5 years is the limit for decent tyres. Pedestrian grade tyres with 400 TW ratings start out hard and don't start to suffer until they are somewhat older again. But the stickier decent stuff? Nup. My current ADO9s are < 2 yrs old, 17000km in, only have about the minimum 2mm of tread depth left, and they are.....not what they used to be. They are clearly much harder now than when new. Whether that is heat cycles (unlikely, for a road tyre), different compound between top and bottom of tread, or actually aging out (in less than 2 years!!!) is not really able to be discerned. But I'd credit actual aging as being at least part of the cause. I've got an old pair of ~50% worn AD08Rs in the shed that I really need to get rid of. They started feeling waaaay too hard to put back on the car after a couple of years sitting there.

What starts as a scratch, becomes a flesh wound, then quadruple amputation. Jus' sayin'. Crush resistant gloves (The ones with the rubber strips down the back of the hand and fingers) might not be a bad idea after all!

Just use the correct PPE

'sif not 'Murica.

Strong first post. On a Skyline-centric forum. Have you considered actually going out into the world, visiting the actual dealership, and asking the parts guy over the counter? Or at least just call them up on the phone?

I'm not sure I see the reason or benefit behind what was done to the rear upper arms. At least if you break them you can just pull it all and replace with GKTech. For $$, sure. But not brain bleed levels of $$.

Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".

That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.

It was initially $2m

Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>

If there is no ridge at the inner edge of the battery tray (ie the battery tray is flat until it rolls off the edge into the open space of the bay), then no, it won't matter if it overhangs. If the battery would be propped up by any ridge, then that wouldn't be ideal. The bottom of the battery case would not be sharing the load. It would be concentrated on one end edge and a line across the bottom where it contacts the ridge. And possibly it wouldn't fit under the locking clamp either. I only upsized my battery to the max because: I sometime have to leave my car undriven for weeks at a time while I am away for work. On the previous battery (replaced a couple of months ago) I had to leave it undriven for months at a time!! I sometimes abuse the battery by running the stereo up loud for many hours while I wash and polish it. This is how I realised that the previous battery was on its last legs, because it got to the point where it was too weak to start after a couple of such. It was 7 years old though, so, fair play. Supercheap had a good special so the X was only ~$250 instead of ~$320, which seemed sufficiently less painful. I had already been using NS70 for the previous 2 batteries for most of the same reasons as above. The X is just the final boss level. I was contemplating going LiFePO4. But it's like $900 to do that properly, and while you save >10 kg of weight, you can likely only expect a couple of years longer life. So meh. Maybe when the price comes down further. Although, in ~7 years when I have to replace this one, I might not be allowed to drive such an anti-social vehicle anyway.

My R32 is about 1300kg. There's your 500kg right there. I've stated before that I hate all modern cars. The fact that something the size of a Corolla is typically 1.5 ton these days is sickening. Should be 900kg like in the old days. What the f**k are modern materials for?

Well, just go buy some handbrake cables. S14, S13, A31 (? Maybe not - I suspect they have R chassis brakes), whatever you can get your hands on. And throw them at the car and see what sticks. Worst case, it is not impossible to get brake cables made. They just need the appropriate termination swaged on.

That's f**ked up. I'd guess it's more likely that you have an entire S13 subframe in there. Does it still have HICAS mounting points? Seeing as it is quite possible that yours is the only such converted car in the world, you'll probably struggle to find someone who can tell you from direct experience. 'Twere I you, I'd be looking for 4 stud Skyline rear brakes and convert back. At a minimum. Preferably go find all the stuff you need to put it back to 5 stud (assuming you're happy to change wheels) and upgrade to some decent brakes. You don't even need much stock stuff. Don't need calipers or rotors, as you can go fully aftermarket. Just needs hubs and the other bits and bobs that are different to what you have now.

The engine has nothing to do with it. The physical space behind the headlight is the limiting factor. And the height. The height of the NS70 is the same as stock. So the clamp bar across the top goes on nice. The battery tray is big enough for it to sit on. The X is for extra capacity - it has even more lead in it than the non-X NS70. Heavy f**ker. But it's not a track car, so I will suffer a couple of extra kg. In the case of the R34, maybe the physical space there is not as deep (forward-backward, not up down). Hence why they say the 60 is the biggest. But I would never trust a catalogue to tell me what will fit. I have the car. I have the existing battery. I have the tape measure. I have the dimensions of all the available batteries. I find the biggest box that will go in. (With the right terminals in the right places, of course).