GTSBoy

Yes.

Plus, if you wanted to do a kit, you'd be smarter to avoid relying on having to obtain RB26 ITBs. You'd want to use DCOE pattern or readily available motorbike single throttles or something actually available and not subject to GTR tax.

Spray paint stripper. Work to remove paint. Prime it properly. Then spray paint it properly. The money paid to a proper paint shop to do it is going to be worth it if your DIY tendencies trend towards using a brush to paint it!!!

Caramel wheel.

Imposssible to say fro those photos. I would trust the "could be saved" assessment from before, as it is difficult to completely f**k one.

Yes, that was the point of the plan. Spray on the coolers in the queue at perhaps at burnout and stop it before staging. Spray INSIDE the intake during the run (or indeed, during the burnout). No water on the track.

Perhaps you need to find a situation specific solution. A fine mist water spray onto the appropriate cooler cores can rob heat away pretty quick. You have it on a manual switch and only turn it on when you're idling in the queue and doing the burnout. Take it one step further and have a second trigger/switch/whatever that uses the same pump to lob a little water into the intake (pre-blower) to gain a little cooling inside the engine on the run. Nothing like as much as you'd use on a properly set up WMI, but enough to do a little something. Might as well make use of the investment in fitting the reservoir and pump.....

Yeah, nah. Maybe the hose with the flat jet nozzle on the multi-nozzle trigger thingo. But not a pressure washer. Pressure washers are a bit fierce and might tear the front (the pile) from the backing.

NP!

Pack it full of teflon tape.

Is it really between the bolt and the hole, or is it in the joint itself?

Some dielectric grease perhaps?

None of the ones he listed are R32, so there's room for them to be different lengths anyway. And, I was under the impression that GTS4 used GTSt 5 bolt shafts. Am I wrong? And, in the US, surely you would just spend the couple of grand required to get the billet ones and forget about all this old Datsun bullshit. They use really strong Porsche CVs and I would just do it if I was building something that needed more strength than you can get out of a 2nd hand 30 year old Silvia shaft.

Does this sound like.....kickdown?

They get put in a small thin vinyl bag with a single pres stud and dropped down into the bottom of the rear guard below the jack. That's all the science and niceness that Nissan put into it. They are only saved from rattling by the bag.

The ECU doesn't create the speed signal. It is created at the speedo head. That signal is available to all the CUs on the bus that want it (ECU, TCU, ABS, TCS, HICAS, ATESSA). On that diagram, I can only assume that the "High speed sensor" is the speed sensor/transmitter in the speedo head, and you can see that that wire reports to both the ECU and the HICAS CU on terminal 6 (I think it's 6 - on the RHS up near the top). The other wire "to ECU" on T5 must be for some signal from the HICAS to the ECU for some other reason. It might be something to do with PS load idle up, or god knows what else.

No. I have not. Because the R32 didn't ever have it. But I have very successfully threshold braked and maintained control in an event that would have activated ABS. So I think I wouldn't miss it if I had removed it from a Skyline. But, no, you cannot remove it from a street driven registered insured vehicle, so the question is moot. The other thing about ABS is, that without stability control, it is often useless. If you are in an extreme manoeuver where you need to break at ABS activation levels and make a severe direction change, the transfer of weight to the front wheels is very likely to cause you to just spin anyway, as the rear end goes all light and decides to beat you to the accident. Stability control will help recover from that imbalance. Not that I'm campaigning for either technology. I don't like either of them and happily drive a car with neither.

3x 044s will beat the shit out of the fuel and make it hot. Adds heat to it every time it passes through a pump. Adds heat to it every time it passes through the engine bay, comes back, gets dumped into the surge tank (confining the heat and putting it straight back into another pump), etc etc etc. So, yes, putting a fuel cooler in will help. Staging the pumps will still help. The problem is greatest when you are not using much power. The pumps are all still thrashing away, and a larger quantity of fuel is going around and around. When, instead, You are using a lot of power, the fuel isn't going around and around as much. More of it is on a one way trip to the exhaust pipe. So the issue of staging the pumps is not about what happens when you're on track using a lot of power. It is about when you're on track not using a lot of power. Even better than just staging the pumps would be to put a proper pump controller on with PWM control. In any case, a fuel cooler will help even if you do stage/modulate the pumps.

Spin all your sensors with a battery drill and watch the signal on the output wires with an oscilloscope. You'll see what they do. If you don't have a scope, you can use a multimeter set to a low AC voltage. It won't show you the frequency, but you should see a voltage, which should all be similar.

I can't see this being likely. As far as I know, all the Nissan inductive gearbox speed sensors output about the same thing - a -1 to +1 volt AC/sawtooth wave, with the magnitude varying a bit with speed, but the main information in it being the frequency. This goes to the dash. The ECU does not see this signal. The dash outputs a square wave PWM 0-5v speed signal. You can see all this in the workshop manuals.

Alright. In the absence of prices, I am going to offer $200 for; Nissan skyline R32 Upper lip boot interior boot trim Skyline R33 TailShaft Nissan Skyline R33 RH Half Shaft Skyline R32 Bonnet Release cable Skyline R32 Manual clutch master cylinder Skyline R32 Brake Pedal Assembly M/T Skyline R32 Door Glass (Genuine) RH AND LH Side Skyline R32 Rear Reo skyline r32 coupe window motor with regulator RH skyline r32 coupe window motor with regulator LH Skyline R32 Door Scuff Panels

Insurance job.

Those same people (R31 owners) are also happy to sit on milk crates, use cable ties for tailshaft bolts, and consider the backing plates on brake pads as consumables.

After suffering more permanent hearing damage from RS4s, I am still convinced that ADO8Rs are worth paying more for.

....f**king noisy too. Horrible f**king things.