GTSBoy

I believe these are available at various locations.

And while I don't disagree....surely there is a decent clutch manufacturer in the UK. Right?

Absolutely. I have 100mm PVC pipe into stock R32 airbox. PVC has bellmouth facing brake duct in GTR bar. Would not contemplate any other intake that backed away from those properties (cold air, only sourced from outside engine bay, rammed in when at speed). Keeping the density as high as possible into the turbo intake is just as important as keeping the density as high as possible after the intercooler. Bashing a 110mm hole down through the inner guard behind the headlight felt like a big undertaking when I did it back in ~2000 though.

Coupe seats don't fit any 4drs.

Shouldn't make any difference. The speedo should work. It might be wrongly calibrated, but it should work.

well. f**k.

The centre is a barbed pin that catches on the 4 tangs around the outside. You just need to push the pin back through the other way, noting that that might not be easy. I don't know if there is a proper tool for removing those. I'd take it off with a dremel, seeing as the weather guards would be going in the bin anyway.

Tres hilarious

It's PWM 0-5v square wave. Same as the ECU sees from the cluster.

Don't just ask the question. Put a temp sensor in the hot side pipe and find out what temperature the turbo is producing. *(But otherwise, all advice above is also valid).

I haven't looked at the wiring diagram that closely, but I think the speed signal is available at the HICAS CU also. As to how to "see" the speed signal....with a consult unit you can see what the ECU thinks the speed signal is. If you want to look directly, then you need to tap the wire with a CRO. You can buy cheap CROs that are USB or wifi these days that you can use with your computer or phone. Worth having.

Are you worried about the grinding marks on the shaft or some wear marks on the lobes? The grinding marks may or may not be factory. It is common for there to be some grinding marks along the casting flashes on those parts of the cam. Yours look like they were fairly aggressively done, but there's nothing to suggest that it's not as-factory. They might have been touched up by someone who thought that further removing casting flashes would improve the cams (when it really wouldn't). Have a google image search for RB25 cams (and also google for RB20 and RB26 cams) and look at the variation is what can be seen there.

If the engine has been open to the weather you pretty much have no choice but to pull it apart and expect to find a few unpleasant surprises. Could be rusted bores, etc etc.

I'd like to think that they've been looking into cryo treating also. I must ask them. Norwood Automatics have been cryo treating input shafts on Ford (and other) autos to help them hold up in Barra drag applications (and other high torque combos). Proven to help.

First things first... What. The. Living. f**k? How? Just how? Have you been parking it in an acid bath? 2nd. Yes, maybe a talented welder could build that back up and then machine it flat. But....you would only do that for a vintage car where getting a replacement is zero chance. 3rd. Yes, it is almost certain that all the Neo (turbo/NA/20/25) covers should fit.

Yes, this is a feature of the design. Most just run without those bolts. The paranoid do whatever mod is required to get bolts in there.

Sam at Neat knows knows his shit. He's done good diff work for me.

Yes, as above. If it isn't tyres, I'd suggest softening the front bar. You will give up some of the initial turn in in exchange for some more mod corner grip. Is it possible to put more rubber on the front? 225 is a skinny skinny tyre for a heavish car at the track.

Am I the only one that noticed that both the pistons and the rods are listed (in the OP) as being to suit both RB25 and RB26? Given that the Neo25 uses RB26 rods to go with the unique Neo25 pistons, it would seem quite reasonable that CP and/or Manley would have one part number that could be used on either a 26 or a Neo25. OP, you are worrying about the wrong things. Follow advice above. Then start wondering why they are not telling you what the plan for the oil pump and/or drive is, why there's no mention of the head, gaskets, timing belts, water pump, etc etc etc. Ask them about those things and listen for a confident response. If the response is not confident, you will likely need to go elsewhere.

Disconnect everything on that circuit. Replace the fuse. Plug the disconnected things back in one by one until the fuse blows.

Behind the trim panel on the LHS rear corner of the boot.

That's my point precisely.

They're not really "active suspension" though, are they? Not in the computer-controlled-takes-input-from-a-bunch-of-G-steering-angle-rideheight-speed-etc-sensors-and-tries-to-control-wheel-rate-and-position-to-keep-the-body-flat/steady sense that proper active suspension is, right? You're just talking about electrically/remote adjustable damping rate, right?

I'm not trying to be homophobic here, but, which guys are you trying to impress with these actions? We all know that girls don't give a flying f**k about shiny radiator hoses (or almost anything else to do with cars) and I'd not really be looking to pull a root from many of those that are suchwise interested. And I'm certainly not looking to pull a root from any of the guys who would be impressed....so why bother impressing them? It's a 30 year old Datsun, ferchrissake.

This is another example of where "just spit on it!" is applicable.