GTSBoy

I see what you did there.

30 months later and there are still no half price backdoor 2nd shift ones available on aliexpress. I'm still sorta tempted. The black housings are less blingy and therefore more tasteful, but somehow the massive change in appearance from the stockers also isn't the way I want to go. The alternative appears to be the Morimoto M LED 2.0 projectors that you can retro in the same way as previous HID options, that seem to be a good choice. To be fair....anything new, even a bad LED, is likely to be so far ahead of the stock projectors that it will seem like perfection. But the Moris are going to cost >$700 landed, and then you still have to dismantle and rebuild the housings. Seems like a tough value proposition against the Coplus/78-works ones at circa double that price point. Plus, with the full replacements, you put the unmolested originals in the shed.

Why not wrap them in tinsel?

It'll be the washer hose.

Just....swap the new old engine onto your existing sump/diff and cut out all the heartache? Close up the original engine with the 2WD sump in the shed, where it doesn't matter whether it's got a diff or not. Win?

Cannot see how this could make a (positive) difference. The thermal conductivity of stainless is less than of mild, so if anything SS should be better than mild WRT this problem. What is this? A sheetmetal shield? If so, doesn't need to be inconel, because any shield that is stood off from the hot surface will never be anywhere near as hot as it would justify inconel over some other SS or similar (and cheaper) alloy. Further, I am a great advocate of radiation heat shields, but you must always remember that when you need one, then the source of the heat is bloody hot, and with a radiation shield between it and some other heatsink (in this case the strut tower, etc) then the heat source will radiate less heat away and will run at an even higher temperature. So, if this then means that more heat is pumped into the air flow around it, then you're just moving the problem from one place to another. And the hot air flow can move the heat from one place to another also. Again, not sure if it will help. Ti's conductivity is not drastically different to typical SSs anyway. CF not required for the purpose. Vents could well be helpful regardless of CF or metal bonnet. Obviously chopping up a metal bonnet is unlikely to be palatable, so understand the drive towards CF. Additionally, this thing about venting harks back to the question about convective heat transfer. If you put in any extra heat shielding, such that hot surfaces get hotter and move more heat into the air, then you really need to find a way to get rid of the heat. Now, a vent on the bonnet directly over the turbo will work as a short chimney to allow hot air to rise out whenever the car is stationary. When moving, who knows what the aerodynamic effect of the vent will be wrt all the other aerodynamic effects in play? It could be good or it might do nothing or it might even impede the "cooling" available without it. That last point is probably where the difference between your two cars (unless they are both Ceffies). The airflow in the engine bay is probably the main difference, notwithstanding the possible influence of the black paint on this car being better at receiving radiant heat from the exhaust. Maybe the airflow is better in one because of an undertray difference, or bodykit difference where the air can escape under the car better in one than the other. Maybe the radiator/intercooler/etc sealing and ducting on this black car is better than the other car and the heat shed into the air stream is better (more of it) and that is making the starting temperature in the engine bay higher, before you start adding heat from the exhaust. This is the same argument as having balanced fans on a computer case. There's no point having 10x90mm fans blowing into a case if there's only 1x90mm fan's worth of exit area. You'd be better off switching a few fans to exhaust and get more airflow and lower temperatures. In the case of the car, having a great system for getting the coolers at the front working isn't necessarily great if that heat gets stuck in the engine bay. What is really required is some form of low pressure zone somewhere down low in/behind the engine bay to encourage the hot air to escape. If there is a high pressure zone down there between the floorpan and the road, then there's an obstacle for the engine bay air to escape. I'd be willing to bet that any number of cars have a relatively higher pressure under the front floor than they do in the engine bay. Or at least, not sufficiently lower than the engine bay to allow the air out. How to change that situation on a street car is possibly a tough answer to come up with and likely to be quite different between chassis/setups also. It probably is all your fault. 😛 I think a CF bonnet with a means to exhaust the air from the radiator out in the front centre is a logical thing to want. Cause suction behind the coolers and further improve their performance without putting much of their heat contribution into the engine bay. Then the other vents on the bonnet would be arranged such that you have some scoopy things towards the front on the sides to get some cool air in and some vents with negative pressure arrangement further back to allow it to escape and take some heat out with it. Stay away from the cowl region as it will provide inconsistent results (possibly an exhaust at low speed and possibly an inlet at higher speed when the pressure rises at the base of the windscreen). There might even be an argument for a small, high speed axial or barrel fan to draw cool air from a brake vent or similar and duct it to the hot spot so that you're starting with the coldest air available rather than general hot engine bay air. Obviously this will require an escape route afterwards, because otherwise you're back near square one again.

Soda blast and paint with rattle can in a single day.

It's even worse when you add posidrive into the mix.

What is wrong with the idea of taking it apart yourself and looking at it yourself and working out why it might be leaking there?

Balancing act between the more simple hydrodynamics and the annoying things like film strength. It's about achieving the best possible bearing performance as fast as possible. Local minimum of one function superimposed on the local maximum of the other.

Soft faced mallet?

Maybe to the top of the engine. Pressure rise in the bottom end is a different thing.

That's the HICAS steering angle sensor drive. What you do with it will depend somewhat on whether you can even put a HICAS wheel onto a non-HICAS R33 column - which I don't know.

Cold oil pressure is key to preventing a lot of unwanted engine wear. You would be surprised how much wear occurs in the first few minutes off operation, every time it is started cold.

I'm not convinced that going fast in a tall heavy heap of shit** is a good idea. ** The standard metric for describing anything made by Jeep.

Just the largest state in Australia, apparently.

Note I did not read the OP at all. I still say FD.

FD.

Whatever one fits. Look in the book at Supercheap, or use the online catalogue.

I only use Century. Back in the day I used to specify proper Century Yuasa, made in Japan. But the Aussie made Century batteries are perfectly acceptable. Even the Supercharge type stuff is fine. Expect most batteries to only last 5 - 7 years regardless of what you buy, unless truly shit quality.

Don't use 5W oil either, unless the engine is reasonably fresh. Any RB with some miles under its belt is almost certainly** better off with 10W. **Unless you live in the frozen shithole of Hoth.

I have one that is close to your specification. I wouldn't consider selling it for double your price range.

Wireless USB inspection cameras with a 2m long cable are $25 from eBay. Cheap multimeters are $10 at Jaycar. These are things that it is difficult to justify not having at those prices vs their sheer usefulness in diagnosis work.

Well, gears don't drive themselves. Inspection camera? Multimeter?

How's the drive cog in the gearbox? Not the one on the drive - the one that drives that one. Have you continuity checked the wire from the sender to the dash?