GTSBoy

Good stuff. Score one for me, one for you and one for the workshop.

R32 GTR/GTSt/GTS4 should all use the same pedalbox and clutch pedal, etc. The only difference is the clutch booster on the GTR. But, that is not to suggest that the R32 stuff is same as R33 stuff, because I'm pretty sure that they are different and don't just bolt up. The R33 shares a lot in common with the R34, not the R32.

Right then. Be prepared for a long and painful exercise in finding all the bits you need. They'll still be out there, but they are mostly being horded by people who saw this day coming.

This. You need to interpose a spark plug lead between the coil and plug.

So....it's fine when you just put it back together and goes off when it has warmed up for 15 minutes. That would suggest that it is either something that is temperature sensitive (ie, wiring/connectors for injectors or coils) getting the shits up when they heat up, or possibly something that is becoming significant once the engine/ECU reaches a particular temperature. When I say "ECU" in that sentence, I'm actually talking about the engine, but as seen from the point of view of the ECU program. For example, when cold cold, the idle speed is controlled by the cold start fast idle valve. The ECU has no control over idle speed until the fast idle valve closes down, which it does by direct thermal means (ie, it sees the coolant temperature flowing through and physically closes). The ECU is then in control and the IAC can affect idle. Also, when certain threshold coolant temperatures are reached, the ECU changes from one ignition timing strategy to another. That change could switch the engine's operation over from "the problem is there but you can't detect it because the timing makes it run a particular way" to "now the timing is normal and now you can notice the problem". All of this means that you might need to use some freeze/cooling spray to chill out loom connectors while it is stumbling, to see if it cleans up. Spray it on coil & injector plugs, CAS plug, AFM plug, IACV plugs, etc. You might need to do some more direct diagnostic work, where you deliberately get it hot then quickly change to cold (spare) components, or control how the idle air gets to where it is supposed to go, watch the ignition timing to see if it is becoming horribly retarded when the stumble starts, etc etc.

There's a big difference between "runs really well" and "runs good and passes CA emissions". Any monkey can get a fuel map right so that it is safe for the engine, makes good power and has good responses to dynamics (throttle changes, boost ramps, etc). But what is good and fine for power and engine safety might simultaneously make a metric shit ton of CO or NOx. If you're lucky there is a narrow window in the "drives nice and makes power" solution space where you also have acceptable emissions. Otherwise, compromises to power, driveability, fuel consumption, etc etc will have to be made to keep it within the legal limits. This is OEM level tuning, not really aftermarket level tuning. Some tuners will never know how to achieve both. Some will have no trouble in some jurisdictions, but maybe only a few tuners are good enough to nail it for the really tough jurisdictions like the people's republic of CA.

Works on my car and every other R3x I've seen it done on (more than 10).

Nope, you gotta measure the fuel pressure. Diagnosis before buyagnosis.

Smurf jizz always does this. Just extend the breather all the way up the firewall. Gives it enough length for the foam to build and subside without reaching the top.

Seems like spam?

It's unlikely to be the cat. Literally everything else is more likely. Fuel pump dying is far more likely.

nom nom nom. Here comes the aeroplane. Not. 25 years of posts on this forum. Search. Spoonfeeding is not allowed.

Yes, if the goal is not to build a hero/lust car that you should have obtained 15 years ago, but merely to have fun building a RWD car, then probably better to start with an 86/BRZ. Drop in a 2GR or similar.

Yet another example of where the picture doesn't match the words. The HID page describes the mounting hardware as "water jet cut from T6". And yes, the picture looks like FG. But at least FG isn't a thermoplastic. Properly cooling LEDs in an R32 housing seems like an impossibility to me - at least if you want to close the back of it up, like you should. Probably still wisest to "settle" for HIDs. They're a known quantity.

I'd be worried about that crowd. They can't even get the description for the LED version to say anything about LED. It's all HID talk. f**king clowns. From what I understand, the Morimotos are within cooee of the notional benchmark HID (the Accord) and even if they weren't they'd about 500% better than the stock R32 projectors, so there can hardly be any justification for complaints.

As above. The original lenses are crap. So replacing with a proper HID is the only sensible approach. Also, 3D printing, in THERMOplastic, something which will hold something that gets very very hot, is not necessarily going to end well. You will note from the link that Josh put up that the adapter mounts are metal. And those aren't even very nice ones, compared to some other options. And all of this has been sorted out to a completely satisfactory degree for several years at least.

It might be possible to run 9.5s on the rear, but I'd suspect 9 is the max, and only with exactly the right offset. More than 8.5 on the front is trouble. People do run 9 on the front, in the R33 GTR +30 offset, but I think they are a little pokey.

This is actually the time when you don't want them linked. The big disturbance on the kerb side gets transferred to the other wheel, lifting the body on that side too. Without an ARB, the spring absorbs all* the impact of the kerb lifting the wheel and keeps the disturbance to that corner of the car. *Granted, it might not absorb all of it because you might bottom the suspension, but not important, except inasmuch as the ARB might prevent the bottoming by moving some of the load input to the other side.

Ooh. I don't mind that at all!

Am serious. Phosphoric acid. gets rid of rust on top of paint and converts exposed iron oxide to iron phosphate.

Take measurements from datum points on your old bar to try to find the equivalent locations on the new bar. I know that they are different shapes, but the places where the fasteners have to go through are in the same places, so hopefully there is at least some other point that is recognisably the same on both also.

Why are you using a test light like it's 1970? Use a multimeter.

Wipe them with some coke.

Go see Brenton at Fours N More. He will hate you, because no-one should still be using Microtech, but he tuned everything and anything running Microtech back when it was the only affordable option for most of his busted arse customers

Could be anything from anywhere. That's the problem with carbon canisters. They are such simple things in concept, but there are so many ways for morons to interfere with them so they don't work properly.