GTSBoy

Carbon canister circuit has probably been removed/f**ked up by a previous hamfisted buttmonkey/owner.

Oh, was your quote of my post messed up? In which case, were you asking for a link to my post with the workshop manual scan? Um.....I dunno, hold on while I look.... here

Very very heavy steering. You need at least some (minimum) voltage on that solenoid to gain assistance. I think a flat voltage would probably feel bad. That's why I'm leaning towards an Arduino type solution for those that need to replace the HICAS CU's duty. I'm not sure what you mean by this. I don't have one. My bro-in-law is a machanic and has such a unit so I've plugged that in in the past to interrogate the steadily decreasing list of other CUs in my car (TCU is gone, HICAS is now neutered, ABS?TCS has been shaken loose from the NEO ECU's grasp). You can use Strap-On brand, or any of dozens of other workshop grade diagnostic scanners. Just can't afford to buy your own - have to borrow.

Also, it could be the solenoid crapping out. Could have a bad connection in/on it that gets hot and gives up, or something more weird. Try putting 6V or so on it directly and see if you get consistent operation.

No, but you should need to have the smaller of the 2 plugs in the HCU pulled out to avoid the absent sensor (and the absent all the rest of it!) causing the HICAS system to go into fault and raise the dash light. Not that I know of. Break out the new scan of the wiring diagram that I posted up a couple of months ago and trace every wire from the HCU, just to be sure. Yes, with a proper workshop grade diagnostics handset. None of the Nissan ECU code pullers will talk to the other CUs on the bus. The HICAS CU definitely controls the power steering solenoid. The 25+ year old age of these cars has meant that the looming death of these CUs has been hanging over our heads wrt keeping the PS working properly. The solenoid just gets a PWM voltage signal to vary the assistance, mostly with speed. It should be possible to fudge something up with an Arduino when we get desperate.

There are other benefits to going with a dedicated cam manufacturer. It's sad that we're reduced to just Kelfords, now that the Aussie makers are gone. But while we still have them in our backyard, we should support them. The support you get from people like Kelfords, when deciding what to use and for trying to solve problems is priceless. The extra stuff and effort available in the areas of springs and retainers, etc etc, knowing that they will only provide gear that matches their stuff.....you work out what that is worth to you.

Yeah, so maybe** it clock has been wound back. ** Ahhahahaa. As if it hasn't been wound back! Or maybe it's had a manual conversion. Or one of a few other possible things. Ultimately, none of these things really matter, if the car is not broken,

I can attest to this. I've been from R32, through 33 and now 34. 34 definitely better. More braking torque, more mass, more good. But note that they are 14mm threads and you need to deal with that via one of several means.

There's no difference in the fluid inlet fitting on any R chassis Sumitomo 4 piston caliper. R32, Z32, R33, R34, RWD, GTR. All same same. Um, I think so. Google up some photos. There's plenty of threads here and elsewhere where people have documented working with the lines and calipers with photos showing sufficient closeups to eliminate doubt.

There's a lot more to how well a cam profile makes air flow into an engine than just the number of degrees and the lift. The lift curve around the seat in particular, the width of the peak of the lobe, the maximum accelerations imposed on the valve on the ramps.....all of these, and some more, are important. The shitty Jap cams do not go anywhere near doing the best on any of these. Kelfords have put some proper thought into all the cams they do for all engines. Cam specialist vs. Jap brand name selling specialists.

Also, pulling the fuse to the affected equipment would probably achieve the desired reset to normal screen.

Is the 5 stud conversion just to pretend that it's a turbo and not NA? Because there's not a lot of other reason to do it on an NA Skyline otherwise. It's not as if you can't get wheels to suit. It's not as if you can't do bigger brakes on the 4 stud either. I would have thought that the answer to the question "What other cars can I get bits from?" would be obvious. The 5 speed manual from the manual version of your car, and the 5 stud parts from turbo R33 Skyline. As NiZmo suggests, these exact questions have been asked and answered on here hundreds of times (if not thousands) over the 20+ year history of these forums. Nothing is new, everything is old. Also, nowadays, finding the parts you need is almost impossible. You will need to scrape and steal to get the full set of things you need. You will likely end up buying 5 parts cars. In fact, if your car is physically in great condition, you would likely find the best way to achieve your goal is to literally buy a car that has the stuff you need on it, that has a shit body/paint or is defected, or damaged. If you can find one.

Using terms like step 1 and step 2 makes me think that you are looking at shitty old Jap cams, not Kelfords. Just go to Kelfords RB26 page and pick the cam that sounds like it suits your needs.

Wait. What? Why not use the IACV that comes with the inlet manifold?

Did. You. Not. Read. The. Replies?

I'm not sure what to make of this question. If you pulled it apart (even by force/accident), then put it back together. If something on it is bent or broken, then fix it, and then put it back together.

What is the point of this last question?

He's saying that him pointing out to you that if you had kept it [you would be greatly better off] is a nasty thing to do, but he couldn't help himself. 😛

I knew that would happen. If I hadn't used the word "exactly" I could have gotten away with it.

It's your idle air control. Both for idle speed control all the time and for fast cold idle via a wax pellet valve that also lives inside. It goes on the back end of the DET plenum. You cannot live without it if you are using a factory ECU. You can live without it if you're using an aftermarket ECU, but you will need to do soomething else for idle control. From a simple 2-wire idle air valve, all the way up to a proper e-throttle.

With houses, in places like Sydney, it's actually more about the land under the house than the house. Unless you're talking mansion spec buildings, the land is by far the biggest chunk of the asking price. I don't use the word "value", because I don't place any value on a block of land in Sydney. But many people do. The root cause of all of this trouble is that there literally is too much money around. People have gotten too comfortable. The GenY tendency to live for the moment because of all the "boomers stole my future" wah wah doesn't help either. Between them and the Boomers spending all the stolen GenY future, people are living like there's no tomorrow. Which, actually, might be the truth.

Pandemic policies haven't helped, but this has been coming for some time. It's a spiral of stupid. When you look around at a large group of people, just remember, exactly half of them have lower than average intelligence.

Why would it be different?

Actually, I just realised that you were talking about a Link. What I said could still be true, but because it is an aftermarket ECU with quite few things that you could have wrong (either in the ECU or out in the hardware), it's pretty well impossible to do other than guess what is going on.

It is doing that because the ECU is retarding timing to try to pull the idle revs back down. This suggests that your idle control motor is not working. I personally have posted many thousands of words on this subject. Go searching.