GTSBoy

I think that is a physical impossibility.

GTR fitment on a GTST. All the poke.

2 near death experiences in one day. Kudos.

Shit! I missed this. You poor/silly bastard. Time to consider some 5/2 fasting or similar**. Good for helping with cholesterol issues, along with all the other stuff. **But only after speaking to your quack, of course.

On the stock temperature gauge, if it moves off of the centre at all, it is getting pretty hot. On a proper coolant temperature gauge, anything over a real 110°C is starting to be concerning. On an oil temperature gauge, anything over 120°C should prompt you to not use a lot of revs or load. Anything over 130°C is starting to get quite concerning.

Break out the multimeter and start trying to find where the power is and isn't.

You mean the pedal feels exactly the same as before, but the engine does not respond to it, right?

Not really. Humidity doesn't really enter into the equation for a car. The radiator works about the same regardless. Humidity is really only an issue when you use evaporative cooling (ie, your sweat). 30+ is not hot. Summer down here is 35-45. In 35° heat my car is fine. It's typically fine in 40° heat - although the oil temperature is certainly rising by the end of a 40 minute drive home after work. 45°C is also fine, just the oil gets hot earlier. All of this is with AC on (OK, well, except for the 35° case, because who needs AC at that temperature?). But I'll happily drive with the window down at 45° with no AC, and the car will keep going forever like that. If you're suffering at 30ish, try it without the AC. I'm assuming you're using AC because it's humid and you don't want to be sticky. Just try it, see what the car shows. Also, what is the state of the fan clutch? Does it lock up reasonably when it's hot, or does it continue to spin quite freely? If it's pretty loose, that could be your culprit. They usually fail towards lockup rather than sloppy, but anything is possible.

Got an air plate between the grille and the top of the rad support? Got sealing around the edges and bottoms of the rad and intercooler? Effort put into forcing all the air to go through those cores instead of allowing paths around them can be very well spent. Seal up the gaps to the undertray, etc etc, down the sides. Just use sticky backed Bunnings foam for a first pass test to see if you gain anything and if it's worth putting more effort in with sheet metal. I've just used corflute for some of this. Cheap, light, painted black you'd not know that it wasn't factory plastic.

It's just an EEPROM. Epoxy isn't some magical substance. Anyone sufficiently fearless with a small Dremel burr would be able to remove epoxy from around the Mines chip legs sufficient to be able to get the chip out and a stocker (or more sensibly, a Nistune board) back in its place. Having said that, a Mines ECU is essentially a bin job. They should never have existed. Throttle doesn't retard. What exactly are you saying? What does the boost gauge say? What is the fuel pressure? What is the AFM voltage at the time?

Just need a bigger rad core.

If you're going to use detergents, then gentle laundry liquids like wool wash are a much better choice. Dishwashing liquid is a pretty harsh detergent.

Comp tests are like dynos. Unless you use the same one under the same conditions, comparing across the internet can never answer any questions, only cause more questions.

Look up S15 helical. And it's not the R&P gears that make noise, or LSD action.

Yes, that's one point for the unlikely column.

GTRs use the same 4.11 CW&P set in the same basic case, so it is very likely that the pinion shaft crush tube is the same part, but I couldn't promise you. They're only like $40 or something, so just get one. But now I look at your original post.....you're doing work on the original viscous diff? You really must not car about how the car drives. They are a piece of shit. Prime opportunity to put a proper centre in it, while you have it open and apart.

Chemical? Chemical? Like no way bro. Use Mother's Leather Cleaner or something similar.

R32 GTSt is definitely 5x1, not 3x2. #x2 n NA Skylines and S chassis cars. You could have a diff from just about anything/where if you have 3x2. I can tell you with absolute confidence that the R32 diff uses a crush washer/tube.

20kW is not a "decent power boost". Barely noticeable. I'm not suggesting that you don't spend (actually waste) money on putting an exhaust on it. But even the best extractors and exhaust only add a little power. The sound changes, which tends to convince everyone that it is going faster, even if it is not actually doing so. You need cams, porting, plenum development, ideally more compression, etc etc, to make a significant increase on a modern NA engine. And almost no-one does any of that these days because it's horribly expensive relative to the gains.

R32s have cable speedo drive to the speedo head. The speedo head creates the one and only speed signal (VSS) in the car. That speed signal is a square wave (PWM) signal that varies in duty (on time) with speed. You can see the waveforms in the workshop manual. R33s have an electronic speedo sender. That feeds an AC sawtooth wave signal to the speedo head. The speedo head then creates essentially the same squarewave signal that the R32 speedo head does. The details might be different, but it is otherwise the same type of signal. This again, is the only speed signal in the car. So, presuming you do use an R33 electronic sender, you will need to convert that from AC sawtooth to a squarewave with the same characteristics as the original one from the original speedo head. If you don't, the ATESSA will either not see it or it will misinterpret it, with whatever shitty results come from those options. You do not need to do anything with the ATESSA system. You just need to feed it what it wants. And that's just a matter of creating the right signal. You might be able to do that in the dash, or you might be able to do it in the ECU. Or, if desperate, you could do it in an Arduino, which is relatively trivial these days.

NP. I just realised how bad my typing was! I meant "anywhere", not "anyone", amongst other typos. Sheesh!

Could be the upright is bent, but that's not really a common problem. Could be bent/moved subframe. Could be the whole car is bent, having had a front ender and not put back straight. I would suggest taking it to the sort of chassis shop that crash repairers use when they can't get car straight again. If you were in SA I would suggest someone to look at it. Can't do that for anyone else. You'll never work this shit out for yourself. You don't have the kit for making these sorts of measurements.

The best exhaust modification is a GT35 turbine.

To 3rd. From 2nd. That's an upshift. Take the same words and write them in this order. From 2nd. To 3rd.

Not what he said. He said " " which is an upshift.