GTSBoy

No. It won't load. No, the ECU doesn't give a stuff about the TB. The air flow meter is at the other end of the inlet tract, and that's where the air flow is measured. If you're having trouble with the throttle open, it's starting to sound like the TPS isn't right.

Mig spanner.

The reason I wanted to know you weren't trying it on a stock ECU is that changing to a really big TB is something that requires that you have a good handle on the mechanical and electrical condition of all the other things that matter, like the idle control motor. If you're doing it on a stock ECU, like everyone else who has ever done that before and had troubles (which is a massive percentage of all such examples) then you're flying blind, because you don't even know if your idle control system was workin before and you sure as hell don't know now and unless you have a decent Consult device or Nistune in the ECU (which you would have already used to find out what was going on if you did) you have no way of looking inside to see what it is doing. Whereas, if you had an aftermarket ECU, even if it was Nistune in the stocker, you would know whether everything was working or not because you would have put the effort into making it work when the ECU was set up. And you'd be able to look inside and see what was happenign with the idle control. The fact that pulling the TPS steadied the idle means that the ECU is now no longer using timing to try to control the the idle speed, which suggests that the idle control valve is not properly functional. You've quite possibly also got a large vacuum leak somewhere, or maybe the large TB is not closed enough to give the IACV enough scope to slow the idle.

What does your ECU tell you that it is doing? Please tell me that you're not trying to run this on a stock ECU.

What is your idle control device?

Yes, but that is not consistent with the concept of an "investment". That is purely not giving a f**k or disposing of the proceeds of crime, or both. If they buy it and flog it, then they're not treating it as an investment. They already pissed the money up the wall when they bought it whatever super inflated price it was. They're just making sure that they can't get the money back. If they buy it and don't drive it, then they are treating it like an investment. But in this case, what I said about the object of the investment not actually having the value assigned to it by the purchase price remains true. The only reason that the object can be considered to have that value is because at least one other person agrees that the object is worth that much money. And whilst that fact will also be true, it does not invalidate my claim that that value is completely imaginary and not based on any measurable grounds. You still can't drive it like a $500k supercar. Therefore it is not a $500k supercar. It is a $50k 20-30 year old pretty good car that someone has paid way too much for. If you do drive it like the $50k pretty good car that it is, you will erode the "value" that you put into it by paying far too much for it.

Win. Sealant is not an (all purpose) replacement for thread tape. In such an application (and for gas fittings, which I assemble a lot more of than I should) I always use tape and sealant. Coolant and even fuel fittings on cars can deserve both. The thread tape is more of a mechanical thing that jams up in the threads and as you have found, can arrange for the thread to lock up at the right orientation. The goop does what it says on the box. makes damn sure it won't seal.

What usage model?

Trouble is, it is an investment with no actual value. Objectively the cars are truly worthless when they are "priced" at those sorts of numbers, because you can't buy one with the intention to drive it, if you also want to be able to obtain a massive capital gain. People paying massive prices for these cars are buying something that is supercar money without supercar performance, and in order to preserve the "value", you can't even use what performance it does have. So the whole "I've always wanted one of these, I love the performance and the way they drive, and now I have the money to afford it" line you hear is a complete load of shit. It might have been believable at the $50-100k price region, but it just bullshit at multiples of that.

You can (and in this sort of case you need to) adjust the amount of tape you put on so that the fitting tightens up in the orientation you want. You just have to count the turns you put on. OK, well, if the thread is longer than the tape is wide, you also need to keep track of how much taper you put on by biasing turns of tape to the back end of the thread. But once you've developed the muscle memory, it's not rocket surgery.

As in.....it won't blow up, which we're all surprised that it hasn't already with the way it is wired now? Yes. You should do a little google on what it means to bridge an amp, and how it is achieved, so you at least understand, rather than flying blind.

RPM signal is a pulsed output from the ECU. You need to start at the source (ECU pin) and work your way forward along the wiring from there. That's diagnostics. Not randomly resoldering shit.

Don't pull the trigger so far?

Haha. Yep. That would be the bridge over the river Kwai. Where amplifiers go to die.

Well, it was either a fault in the oil pressure switch, or you had low oil pressure. Note that oil level in the sump and oil pressure are not necessarily correlated. There are other reasons for low oil pressure. What was the gauge saying at the time?

I've been using All Type Crash, Main Nth Rd, across the road from Parafield Airport. Alan's a good bloke and they semi-specialise in Skylines. Alan is a good bloke. I would hate to estimate. I got front bumper and lip redone for <$1k recently.

Yeah, because nothing says "quality feeling car" like plastic guards.

It was a strong first post.

^ Not even close. They abandoned all those silly rules years ago. So long as the wheel + tyre fits (doesn't stick out, doesn't hit the car), the rolling diameter stays within limits, and the track remains within the limit, you can fit anything. And no Turbo R33 has ever had 6" wide std wheel. Or 7s. All had the extra 0.5", unless GTR, which are of course 9".

That was said in the project office I am sitting in about 30 minutes ago. "Hope is not a management tool".

Cracked, as in cracked through/broken, or cracked as in crazed/hazed? If the latter, then yes, pulling them apart (very gently) and working on the inner surface might help. There are full aftermarket LED retrofit type things available too.

What specifically is wrong with the headlights? And, are you actually in a position where GTR headlights are easier to get hold of than GTST lights? I ask these questions because there are other things you can do to improve headlights, and whilst I don't know for sure (because R33 and I prefer not to know too much about them).....It is unlikely that the GTR headlights swap with GTST. They don't on R32. Well, they do, but they are different. Different grille brackets, etc.

I would suggest that you stop doing what you are doing and take the car to an auto-electrician. I don't think replacing the alternator was likely to be the correct response to what appears to be a wiring problem elsewhere. The likelihood that we can diagnose what the real problem is across the internet is, on all previous evidence, f**k all.

As if you wouldn't put a massive Yank crate motor in the thing. This is why the USA exists!

Why not power it up and measure it?