GTSBoy

Even with a 25 5 speed the 4.11 ratio is too bloody short as it is. Turbo (25, not 20) Skylines should have come from the factory with a 3.7 diff anyway. Back in the 80s, the first rule of adding a turbo to any car was to also add a taller diff - to make use of the torque.

Check valve. It'll be the check valve.

2 or 3 bits of sheetmetal, bent with some holes thrown into them. There. Does that help? f**k!

Kit? Just make something.

Give it a squirt with some silicone lube.

I don't generally watch videos posted in these threads as they are almost always useless. CEL = Check Engine Light. Something you did wrt the rail swap is wrong, or the injectors or FPR are faulty. Put back the proper stuff. Don't report fuel pressure behaviour on different equipment to that which possibly caused the problem without first reporting the behaviour on the original equipment that was on the car when reporting the problem.

Maybe a little too high. How fast? What do you mean, "changing the rail?" Also used as CEL. Now you have a code to investigate. Yeah, nah.

If you can feel it, it's got to go.

Check that it is not too high, not that it is too low. You will need to use a gauge.

Who ever suggested that that was the case anyway?

Welllllll, if it's not the cable, then it's either the drive gear or the speedo head. Where the fault is, that is. Have you tried driving the cable from the gearbox end with a cordless drill?

No, but seriously, there have been thousands of people in Australia running WMI, with proper ECU integration (giving all the protections to reduce boost and/or timing and/or add fuel back in if the water stops), no freezing (only need a little methanol for that, let alone the typical 50/50) and all the other goodies. It's old science. You can quite literally keep adding water/meth right up until the point where you quench the spark and the engine will keep gobbling it up and making more power. I can't remember the numbers exactly, but it is in the order of as much water/meth as fuel. Might even be a multiplier on fuel rate.

Literally every single one of these "problems" has been solved many times over.

I delimited all the Nerf guns.

No. It'll be fine. But you should set the timing to suit the ECU, which probably wants 20°, being an auto. Not a big issue, you're just running 5° retarded. Check your fuel pressure.

Scuff plates are available new, from the usual vendors of new old stock, including eBay.

I've got a couple of 6m lengths of galv allthread lying around if that would work better 😛

No. It's a design "feature" of rigid FUCAs on R32s. The stock arms are rigid and have squidgy bushes to provide some compliance to take up the simply horrible amount of twist that the stupid suspension geometry forces into them on articulation. Polyurethane bushes get squeezed something horrible. Noltec's urethane compound also didn't age well, as per Duncan's report. Basically, these arms suck for a few different reasons. It's hard to find a workable solution for R32s.

Absolutely. These are "old tech" sensors and they have integral heaters, but they really rely on hot exhaust gas to keep them at their proper operating temperature. The heater just keeps them closer to the right temperature so that they're always "ready to go" as soon as there is any load on the engine. But at idle the low temperature and low flow rate of gas past the sensor means it will cool down and get lazy, until it eventually just sort of flops around fitfully.

And continuity testing doesn't prove that the whole wire is good. You could have just one thread of copper still connected and a multimeter set to "continuity" will still beep. But that wire won't carry much current. So continuous and "functional" are not necessarily the same thing. Check resistance. You can also measure the resistance of a single strand of copper from a similar wire and compare to a 3m length of wire to see what range of resistances could be possible, to guide your eye.

At idle the O2 sensor can be too cold to read properly and may sit at just one voltage and only occasionally do a jitter.

They're all basically just the GTR transmission, just with less brain power. So they're all the big box, like RB25DET inside. Strong as an ox.

If you've got GTR front guards, you'll be able to fit GTR front liners.

Check the health of the engine earth strap. Did you look at the spark plugs?

Ok so, next question. When you say "GTR bodykit", do you mean that it has GTR front guards (fenders) on it? Or just the bumper, sploier, etc? Because, if it has GTT guards, the GTR guard liners are not going to fit. Too wide.