GTSBoy

Man.....you're worrying about the wrong things! Do you have body bushes for the ARB with big enough holes in, or did you try to jam the 24mm bar into the 22mm bushes? Because you know what you're supposed to do, right? I don't even know if it would be physically possible to jam them if you tried. Just asking for the potential lols.

Probably wouldn't matter if they did anyway. Pencil coil tech is so much newer/better that a bodgy counterfeit is probably good enough. At least they'd be copying something that you only have to get 80% right to be able to run an RB, whereas if you're trying to fake an old RB coil, you have to get it all the way to OEM/Splitfire quality to do the job.

Are you talking about the steel inner guards (the inner surface of the engine bay) or the plastic guard liners?

Got to be careful. The are blue rainbow coils out there now too. And dud black ones. That's why I try to be as specific as I can.

Yes, rainbow coils are a lottery and should be avoided. You need to buy 2 sets so that you can swap them out. Usually one or 2 of the first set will be dead out of the box. Then you'll lose others at random intervals. Ignore all the people who usually chime in at this point in these threads with "But I put in yellow coils 5 years ago and they've been fine", or "My red ones have been great". They got lucky. They are at the far right hand end of those coils' bell curve. Your typical owner of such coils is closer to the middle of the bell curve, and that is well to the left of the bell curve of OEMs & Splitfires. There have been so very many threads about dead OOB and short life expectancy rainbow coils for it not to be true.

You broke the first rule of buying RB coils. The first rule: Thou shalt not buy other than OEM or Splitfire. The first rule has now been superceded by the new rule, which is; The new rule: Why would you put original form factor coils into an RB when you can buy kits containing modern pencil coils (Yaris, Audi, VQ, R35, etc) for reasonably sensible money and enjoy umpteen times better spark output? Not to mention that should a pencil coil die, a new one is often only ~$50.

Thread is pure gold already.

Yuh. Black fuel hose is black fuel hose when it is buried under the plenum anyway!

Well. Fu(k.

I can't help you with the details. As I said, I put a Neo25 into my car, and everything is different from vanilla25. And I did not use complete lines. I had the compressor ends of BOTH lines cut off the car's lines and I had the ends to suit the 34 compressor welded on.

6 of one or a half dozen of the other. The expense is not huge and the effort is not huge, so you could say that it is silly to not take the opportunity. It's just sump off, rod caps and pistons off and then put it back together afterwards. It's just annoying given the effort that you've put in goes to waste. On the other side of the coin - the stock rod bolts have been demonstrated to happily run at streetable ~300rwkW power levels without failing on many engines for many years. So as long as you don't plan to beat on the engine real hard, it will probably be fine. At this point you choose your poison and you drink it.

Looks like my thinking on the price was pretty close. They're apparently talking pretty much bang on $70k. It's the spot it needs to be to command enough (any) sales. Will possibly convince some people who wanted a Supra but couldn't quite stretch that far. If I wasn't congenitally allergic to spending that much money I think I'd be on it like a rash. Last chance for anything in this mould, I think.

That looks like a job for a $5 arduino and some potting compound.

Well..... So long as the R32 compressor doesn't have a problem with belt alignment, then yeah, sure. I don't know if there is a belt problem with a 32 compressor on a vanilla 25. I do know that the R32 compressor won't work against the Neo's belts. Well, not without having to do something about pulley alignment and/or different pulleys, which could all be possible, with some work. I put a Neo into my R32, used the Neo/34 compressor, got an airconditioning workshop to cut and shut the refrigerant lines (R34 ends at the compressor onto the original R32 lines, welded at the alloy pipes). I also had to f**k around endlessly to sort out the different pressure switch and the different way that the R34 ECU talks to the AC controller. Was without air for a couple of years until we got that sorted out. Not that it matters because I seldom use the air con anyway. Oh, you also have to convert to R134a with the R34 compressor to, which means different receiver-dryer and ports and some other stuff.

If they can get through security onto the plant, they can happily take me away. A Japanese jail is probably better than working on this bloody project!!

OK...but what's the error?

I reckon the scan of the 32 manual originates with me. I sneakily borrowed a copy from Nissan back in about 1999 or so. I made 3 photocopies (because scanning it at that point in time was actually a bit too much of a challenge) and distributed 2 copies to others who knew I had borrowed the original. Although, the Nissan original was in a lever arch folder, not a bound book, so was probably a workshop copy anyway. The PDFs that are around all contain some artefacts from my photocopies that were not on the original paper I copied. So I reckon one of the other copies got scanned early in the 2000s and ran away to the internet.

You could make more power on E85. Bit more boost, bit more timing. Certainly provide better response, even if you don't use the extra top end.

Yuh, they are referred to as a "saddle tank" because they go up and over the horse in the middle. As @sonicii above says, there is usually a venturi type pump that runs from the return flow or similar to draw fuel from the dead side to the live side (live side being where the main pump draws from).

Shh. The pixies don't like it when you talk about them like that.

And while it was reasonably sophisticated, it frequently didn't work. Many VGs and RBs ran on the knock maps all the time (and like shit, obviously) because the knock sensors were hearing engine rattles that the discriminators thought was knock. Either that or they went faulty and never heard knock even on an engine that was pinging like a 90s raver.

And my point was to do with street cars, where an oil pressure problem could be either acute or chronic (ie something breaks or you're losing oil somewhere and don't realise it) and protection from the ECU would actually be more likely to save you than in a motorsport application simply because the engine isn't (usually) being whacked as hard. Certainly more useful than not having it at all.

Not to mention the other things that you can trivially do these days to add protection with a decent aftermarket ECU, being oil pressure and fuel pressure, hell, even coolant pressure. These are all great even on a streeter, and far beyond what the factory ECU offers. If I had spent money inside my engine I would be seriously considering the aftermarket ECU approach rather than the Nistune I use now. When I decided to use Nistune I took the cheap option because it was plenty good enough for a basically stock engine not being pushed hard. Now, many many years later, with spare engines being a forgotten memory and the costs of fixing damage being a lot higher than they used to be, I should probably be reconsidering right now.

Nah. Not in the proper context. A street car could be quite modified. You're not running with a factory ECU on factory maps like that. So you dial out all the R&R that is up in the top RH corners of the maps (which is the bulk of the factory "engine protection". The factory put it there because they did not intend the engine to ever run there and figured that the only way the engine could get there was via a failure (ie wastegate line) or some Neanderthal futzing with the inputs. But as soon as we turn up the boost we start to go into that part of the maps and need to clean them up. If you clean them up, then there is no more "protection". Just more map you can use. The OEM knock detection and the strategies used in the factory ECUs (which varied from the R32 era of changing to the knock maps, which were even richer and more retarded everywhere than the R&R corner of the later ECUs, to just mapping in R&R and having a big timing subtraction applied in case that didn't work) works, so long as the knock sensors are telling the truth, which is not to be taken for granted.

These are not opinions. You pull the lever, it doesn't change gear. You leave it to itself, it changes gear. You have outlined the problem perfectly.