GTSBoy

And it is nearly 4 years ago. You just do the optimism bud. Just do it.

Does that not sound like it's not changing gears? It kind of sounds like it's not changing gears. I dunno. Maybe. It's. Not. Changing. Gears.

It might not hurt so much if you can supply some lube.

Yes, but not because they are TTY bolts (which they are not). It is because they are 30 years old, have done a million billion cycles and an engine builder is BUILDING an engine, usually with the intent to push it hard.

Back in the grim old days of carburetors, and particularly in the emissions era of carbies before EFI came along to save the day, a lot of carbies had a fairly significant dashpot on the throttle linkage to slow down the closure of the throttle. I used to hate that, particularly on an old Navara that we used to have on the farm. Nowadays, the same thing is making a comeback in EFI cars, particularly newer ones with e-throttles. The manufacturers are doing it as an emissions control thing. I can't remember exactly what it is that a rapid close causes, probably NOx. Given that the Lancer is probably massively newer than your dirty old datto, and your dirty old datto certainly has no such dashpotting function, it's likely to be that.

Yes, but what sort of diagnostics have you done? Randomly flicking switches and soldering joints is not diagnostics. Have you looked at he wiring diagram and probed with multimeter (based on the understanding of the wiring diagram) at all?

They're not single use. The workshop manual just gives a simple torque figure to do them up to.

Is this a question?

You can't run large caster for other reasons (beyond your obvious problems from having the wheel too far forward in the well and the steering binding). The bushes in the upper arms cannot tolerate the twisting load that high caster causes, unless you have an arm that will pivot in the centre. The only example of which that I trust is the GKTech one. I can't see what arms you have, but I can see in one photo the bolt end that indicates stock arms with Whiteline adjustable bushes. If that's what you have, even the 6.5° you were running will trash the bushes tut de suite. The only other available fix is to change the locations of the holes in the body side bracket for the FUCAs to change (reduce) the "twist angle". There's a thread on here and the post I linked shows what needs doing to achieve the mod.

Do you have the wiring diagram?

No, exactly the opposite. Neos have chambers that are ~10cc smaller than vanilla 25s, and so they have pistons with lower crowns (to achieve approx the same compression ratio as vanilla). If you put the big vanilla chamber on a Neo piston, you get very low compression. What you need is vanilla pistons to go with the vanilla head.

The fact that it is called out as the "Main Power Cable" should be pretty telling.

Nah - wireless power transmission is a thing dudes.

These are the key points. Any sacrifice of what the RB20 has to offer before the boost threshold only hurts driveability. You can make an RB20 make lots of power, but when you do you get nothing, nothing, nothing, wheelspin.

A short runner manifold an only be teh suck on an RB20.

In that context, the Nismo plenum, if it offers the benefits that they claim, would be a good thing. The larger plenum volume will certainly help on big power cars. The improvements to the runner geometry might help. The length increase would be unnoticeable (except inasmuch as it might contribute to the large volume).

It looks like a simple fabrication job. Do some measurements, do a sketch, and get a local sheet fabber to make it up out of stainless?

S13 and 14 are tripod CVs, (not the proper CVs on the 5 bolt axles). I'm pretty sure that the boots are different. As far as I know, any driveshaft/CV workshop should be able to source replacements.

90% it's the fuse.

It just sounds like ANY NA RB with an exhaust. Seriously.

They what? The runners one RB25 etc are waaay longer than 2 or 3 inches. Are you talking about RB26?

Just sounds like an NA RB. Just like an NA RB.

You could use just about any of the available rails to suit bottom mounted seats. If those ^ don't have any sliders, you will need either a separate set of sliders and a frame, or an all in one. Crank Motorsport are an example of a supplier that can do it either way. JustJap is another. Beware of some of the eBay suppliers

Even better, John Cardogan just this last week did a series of videos on Youtube agreeing 100% with me and 0% with R32Abuser.

Yes you will need an O2 sensor. And no, S1/2 and auto/man are not the same. There are real differences between S1 & 2. An auto ECU will run a manual (just with some mapping differences that aren't ideal) and a manual ECU won't play nice with the auto's TCU.