GTSBoy

Give or take, they are same, yes.

Where else is a chunk off the top of the piston going to go?

That's what 9.5:1 looks like. Air-fuel ratio, not compression. Oh, and ~3-4° of ignition advance.

Fine.

There are no BS sensors at the rear of the rocker covers. There is one essential ECU boost sensor (essential to the stock ECU anyway), and some solenoid valves that you really shouldn't just pitch unless you know what they did and what you have just done to the engine. But, yes, wind the boost up now, to at least 15 psi, and just go for it.

Never heard of it.

No. A tuner is a tuner, not an engine builder. They need to know their place. Tell those that disagree to f**k off.

I'm with him ^. Tuna's opinion matters not one tiny speck of goat shit. It's your motor. You should put the best cams in it. Not those shitty 90s era lumps from Japan.

What does it say it is in the 30/26 build guide threads on here?

^ Wot he sed. You could do some work on the stock rods for old skool feel goods without spending any coin. New rods at that power level are not required, by any means. The only counter argument is that good rods are so cheap these days that spending the time and effort to open a motor and build it with bottom end parts that could take a lot more than the near future intended usage can also be seen to be a waste of time. How long is your piece of string?

Not even going to try to search?

You don't want the GL-5 oil.

Yes. After years of these things' values settling and consequent decreasing interest from general or specific thieves, the stupid increase in values has driven a correseponding increase in risk of them being stolen. Double whammy in insurance terms. And there's actually more risk now of them getting driven backwards into trees because of the number of them that are in "new" hands. That may not apply to any one of us (of course any one of us could still reverse one off the road at speed) but we all get treated as if it could.

182-B then

Kelford L182-A for the most street option. Kelford L182-B for a less street (will be a bit lopey) street option Neither of those require lifter bore clearancing work. Kelford 182-B for the best street option. Kelford 182-C for the less street best street option. But both of the above will require lifter bore clearancing. Lift is better than duration for a street car. The bore clearancing is worth it. But of course, the head has to come apart.

I don't know for R33 RB25 into R32. I did a Neo25 into R32. The heater hoses are different diameters, So I bought (suitable for coolant) barbed adapters and just cut and shut the connections behind the head.

Throttle off to back on time. If it's faster lately, your shifts are faster lately.

Stock 25 ECU can go straight in.

What airbag sensor? I see a steering angle sensor......

Yeah, so the second one is what (I think) 6Boost first started out with (many many years ago), claiming correct spacing of the consecutive entries into the runner meant that the pulse train was built up nicely and there was no need to increase the diameter of the runner as the additional cylinders' flows were added because the pulses were in train with each other, it wasn't like simply adding continuous flows to each other. Which is true, and the arguments made for it were all convincing - but this concept was dropped after a couple of years in favour of more conventional banana bunch manifolds like the first one. So while the concept seems to be right - it was dropped by the guy who was pushing it hardest, which might tell us something. I haven't done much thinking on the matter myself. The first one is essentially "modern 6Boost". It's almost impossible to obtain proper equal length along with a good collector along with packaging against the engine and the car. So most people don't even try, or just assume that it is equal length because they can't measure any differently anyway. And I think the majority opinion since a long time ago is that the gain from a true equal length manifold, laid out as ideally as possible, against what is possible in reality, is small enough to just give it away and not think about it.

Would have to be tuned length to do it according to the intention of the concept, with proper merge collector designed to prevent reflections back along other runners.

Yuh. Get the wiring diagram and work out where the power comes from and what has to work (wiring, switches, relays) between the +ve supply, the load and the -ve rail for the motor to switch on. If you can prove to yourself with basic electrical diagnostic techniques (checking for continuity, measuring voltage at different points in the circuit, confirming that switches open and close when required, etc) you will either find what is not allowing it to work or you will eventually come down to the motor/load being dead.

Most loads are switched on the earth side, meaning that there is usually power at the load itself.

Nah. You've got the tuning tool (the handset). Buy a wideband instead, use that to adjust the injector settings until you've got the scaling right (for the top end) and the dead time right (to get the bottom end right). Should only take a few minutes on the road with 2 people. Err on the side of rich at the low end, and aim for ~11.5:1 at higher loads. You just need to be cautious in how much load you put on in case it is lean when you start - but you can almost certainly set the scaling to where you know it is both able to run and quite rich from the various values you quoted earlier. Then, assuming your original map has the cruise and transitions sorted out, you should be gold. The wideband will tell you whether it's any good or not.

The key/barrel is not electrically connected to anything. In the driver's door there is a (mechanical) rod that runs from the locking mechanism to a switch that triggers the car's own central locking to make the passenger door follow the driver's door. So however you make the driver's door change state (locked, unlocked), that is, either by turning the key, or using the internal lock knob, or if it is remote enabled, pushing the remote button which will make a solenoid in the driver's door move the locking mechanism, the rest of the system just follows along. So, you probably don't have to add anything into the doors. But, when you say "seems like nothing really works anymore", it seems to me that you had best get someone who knows auto electrics along to help. It will be impossible to help troubleshoot across the 'net, just too much language that might not be understood coupled with not being able to stand there and see the state of it directly. Know what I mean? In the absence of capable friends to help, that would mean taking it to an auto electrician, or the alarm installer. If you're in lockdown then just take at least 2 wheels off it and remove the CAS and pull a couple of main fuses and just wait until you can get the alarm installed?