GTSBoy

I would suggest that that wheel would be no more legal than what you're using now. Sure, it will have an airbag.....but it is effectively a one off handmade thing that has no type testing at all. That is the very antithesis of ADR requirements and wouldn't stand up to 3s of scrutiny at a true roadworthy check (such as at the actual DMV, not some mechanic's roadworthy). I think you're just going to be spending money for money spending's sake here, rather than actually achieving anything useful.

I can connect to and talk to my HICAS CU with a diagnostics handset, but I cannot see the wheels turn, because all the HICAS hardware has been removed from my car and thrown in the bin, like it should be on all R chassis cars.

I have never heard of an aftermarket windscreen moulding for any car that wasn't an old chrome bumper classic for which there was a market for restoration parts that are NLA from the OEM. I am a fluid dynamics engineer, and I would advise you to not worry about it. There are so many other things to worry about first!

^ all-brand, not all-rand.

Who owns one? Not me. My friendly neighbourhood workshop does. Helps that it's my brother-in-law's workshop. But, any decent general automotive workshop needs to have an all-rand capable scan tool to do anything with modern cars. If a workshop doesn't have one, they just can't fix vehicle electronic problems these days.

Yeah - good luck. I've only ever managed to interrogate mine with a workshop grade scan tool. Like Snap-on, or similar.

What device are you trying to do this with?

True.

300rwkW RB20 is laaaaaaaaaaaaag followed by 2000rpm of power.

And besides which, who searches forums using the built in forum search engine? They are usually so f**ked up that they simply don't find what you want or have restrictive settings about not using words of less than 2 characters, etc etc. The only smart way to search any forum is to deliberately search it from Google. You can tell Google to only search a specific site, and awaaaaay you go. Been doing that since Google became useful more than 15 years ago.

I'm bid $21 each then.

If it would have been be sellable (before crash) for anything >$20k, then it is very likely fixable. Provided the insured value is the same. I had the front of my car extensively destroyed about 9 years ago when it was probably <$10k value and the cost to repair was ~$6k. The insurer came super close to writing it off. Parts will be more expensive now, which could make your repair price a lot higher than the $6k mine was, but so long as the fraction of (insured!!) value is low enough, they will repair. But, if your insured value is market, or agreed at <$15k....it might be a touchy area. The insurers are generally not willing to admit that the market values are as high as they appear to be.

BK, You should copy most of your post out to a new thread with a clear title to serve as a searchable guide to these synchro inserts.

Why would such a thing exist?

Acceptable. I'm actually with you there. f**king Acacias. They only live 10 years then they sucker all over the bloody place anyway. Take it down knowing full well that it won't take long to replace it with something else.

Chopping established trees is about more than the carbon balance. This one tree feeds an enormous number of rainbow lorikeets, rosellas, and lots of other birds that eat the blossom or live off the insects. Recently the flying foxes are eating there too. The possums that live there are semi-welcome, if they learn to stay out of the roof! Habitat loss in the suburbs is a terrible thing. I'm lucky. I live in what amounts to parkland - there's thousands of such trees around me. And I still wouldn't cut that tree down to improve my solar yield. In other suburban areas, such as the sprawling urban wastelands of Sydney and Melbourne, every large tree should be considered sacred. They are the last shreds of the ecosystems that used to cover the whole area and are tiny little islands of life in a concrete and bitumen wasteland. On top of that, I would rather have that tree for the shade that it casts on the house, which makes the place more pleasant on hot summer days. I'd hate to have bare brick walls (and the parts of the roof not covered in panels) facing the NW sun. I shudder every time I see those horrendous 2 storey McMansions with no eaves and massive walls facing W and N (or worse, massive windows facing W and N!).

I have spent >10 years cursing the massive eucalypt that shades my array in the afternoon, but it would be a seriously f**ked up world where tress get cut down to increase yield on a solar array. No?

Clutch alignment tool used when assembling the clutch onto the flywheel?

11.5 years ago. OP hasn't been seen in 4. Good luck with the thread necro.

You took it apart and put it back together. So you have not put something back together properly. ie, broken or cracked one of the hoses, left a small hose off a nipple, broken and electrical plug, etc etc.

Why do you need to know these things if you're never going to do a burnout video?

Surely Brembo caliper pistons are available at every brake workshop in the (civilised) world?

That's totally safe. If the piston is down the bore a bit and the head is set up very close to where it should be for TDC, then there's no chance of hitting anything further down the row of cylinders. You can eyeball the protrusion of the valves and the height of their pistons before you drop the head on, and you should be able to feel them make contact if you have managed to get it wrong, long before you try to bolt it down. You just have to remember that you wound the engine backwards before putting the head on, so that when you try to put the chain on, you know that you have to wind it forwards. The TDC marks on the pulley can help, even though it won't be fully fitted up before you've got the timing cover on. Just fit it temporarily and make yourself a pointer that will help you mark TDC. If the head is fully assembled and off the engine, then you can just turn either cam by hand to put it wherever you want. No need to back off cam bearings, and in fact, that wouldn't make it any easier anyway.

OK, so, I downloaded the R32 GTR manual that's up on NicoClub's site. On the 3rd page of wiring diagrams (the last pages of the PDF), which I show here zoomed out for identification purposes Right in the middle is the reverse lamps and the reverse switch (for MT vehicles)) is shown right there, just above it. I've zoomed it in and circled the area of interest, here The wire that runs along the bottom of the reverse light is earth. If you follow it to the left across the pages of the pdf you will find it ends at the -ve symbol. On the way, it passes both the vehicle speed sensor and and the neutral switch too (as you scan along the diagram). I don't know if this means that there is a buss wire or if it the body earth, but it doesn't matter. This will become relevant later, when I describe probing. It shows the wire colours, but sadly, this pdf is too low a resolution to be able to decipher them. I have at least 2x pdfs at home, plus the paper copy that I photocopied myself from a manual I borrrowed from Nissan Australia last century. I'm sure that at least one of the pdfs I have (and my photocopy) have legible wire numbers everywhere. So what I'm telling you is, find a pdf upload that has better quality (if the one you already have isn't good enough), and have a look at that section. The wire colours are shown each side of the switch. But, there are still things you can do even without a legible drawing. You can use manual methods to probe the wires. Start with a meter connected to the appropriate side of the reverse lamp wiring in the boot (the side that goes back to the switch, not the earth side that I described above) and probe around the gearbox loom under the car until you find continuity. That should be one of the wires. Then, the other wire is known to go to IGN relay 2, shown on the next page of the pdf, with the interesting parts circled n the below image. That wire code circled is the lower wire of the pair that comes in from the left, which is the same wire that leaves the previous page on the right, having come through the reverse switch. You go find IGN relay 2 and you can identify the wire coming out the relay that delivers 12v to these circuits, and probe looking for continuity to wires in the gearbox loom. As a further plus, the neutral switch should be 2 of the other wires in the gearbox loom. One of them will be earth and the other one will go back to the appropriate terminal on the ECU, which I think is 44, but you should double check with the ECU pinout.

If your sparky can't fix that with a depinning tool, a spray can of CO contact cleaner, a toothbrush, and at worst a handful of replacement crimp terminals, then sack him and find someone who actually knows what they are doing.