GTSBoy

Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).

While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.

It's certainly not the first choice, but it is a perfectly good bandaid when the alternative is to anger f**k the thing with a blowtorch. It's not just noise. It f**ks bearings.

This almost never happens these days. No. Clean your battery terminals and make sure they are tight. Use sandpaper on a dowel if you have to, to get oxidation off the inside of the terminals, particularly on the -ve. Check the earth cable from battery post to chassis ground and engine ground. Make sure the contact surfaces are clean - including the threads on the bolts that anchor them - because that's where a lot of the contact occurs. Wire wheel on a drill is a good thing for this. Make sure the crimps on those cables are all sound. Assuming none of that causes an improvement: Check the battery voltage after it has been resting for a while. If it's at the lower end of the range, put it on charge for a while, then see if it will crank better.

Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.

You can also get belt dressing in a spray can which can help to settle a belt in that otherwise wants to slip.

Belt polished and/or pulley(s) glazed. Rub pulleys with sandpaper, replace belt.

The downside to that is that the cost of everything, particularly labour, is significantly higher here than it is over there in the Disunited States of Slavery. You can hire 3 tradesmen over there for just the Ranger Raptor allowance of a single 3rd year apprentice over here.

Shit. Starting to look like a car again.

Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?

If you go 2.8, you're going to want bigger turbos. Scratch that. If you go 2.8, you're going to want one single larger turbo.

Yuh. It is very rare for a single turbo to throw ceramic into the engine. Quite common on GTRs. As I posted above. Mine did destroy the O2 sensor on the way out though! Plastic compressor is fine with the temperature. It's not some flimsy PE/PET/PP thermoplastic. It's a thermoset resin with reinforcing material in it (a composite, as posted by @Lithium above). The compressor never sees much more than 100°C because it's never boosting very high. If you boost it high enough to make a lot of temperature, then the turbine will depart the scene and stop the party anyway.

Yes, but it's not as easy as pulling a fuse on anything other than an R32. There's a routine you have to do, involving disconnecting a loom plug and bleeding down the preload.

Son, in this country, that is a piece of Gyprock. f**king drywall. FFS! I also like the autocorrect of trailer to tablet. I was reading it and thing, "what the hell drugs is he on?" Then the photo made it clear enough.

As @Duncan said - the bores are most likely to cop it. But anything can and does happen. Rods are cheap. Rods are good. The work to rebuild the motor will be 30x the price of rods. You won't notice it.

Yes.

Hi Tao, It seems that turbine fragments entering the engine is more of a thing with the twins. The theory is that because there is much more of a straight shot from the turbine housing directly at exhaust ports, they seem to cop it where the single turbo cars don't do it so often. It is definitely something that we hear about on GTRs far far more often than the others.

My Neo turbo only went last year. Not 35 years old, to be sure - closer to 25. But still.

What's the difference? I would have said that between the front and rear axle lines, there's no noticeable diff between a GTR and an NA 2-door.

It will be salvageable. It really doesn't matter what is damaged. Opening up a 30+ year old motor for a rebuild immediately means a complete rebuild of the head anyway. Damaged valves just means an opportunity to put in some nice new ones. And in the modern day, why would you not throw at least a nice set of pistons at something. And if you're doing that, why not rods, and ARP fasteners, and so on.

They usually get made by hand as part of any such swap.

Yes, at least 10 years before anyone ever thought of making such a panel. Of course.

Um. No. Since Matt introduced the TIM it has become a lot easier to deal with the consequences of changing K for AFM and injector swaps. Then, tuning is a f**king doddle. No-one needs to know or care how many grams of air are flowing or any other bullshit. Need more fuel in a cell? Add more fuel. Need more timing in a cell. Add more timing. Need to adjust any of the other tables for warm up and so on? No harder than anything else. Sure - it's not an ECU system for starting from scratch on an arbitrary engine. But then.....it was never supposed to be, not recommended for, and almost never used that way. So.... On your engine, in particular, Nistune/Nissan OEM is about as sophisticated and difficult as banging 2 rocks together. Those ECUs are primitive and simple. There is nothing difficult there. I learnt Nistune from scratch, created new maps with extended axes, interpolated/extrapolated the original maps onto them and tuned my RB20 (basically the same ECU as your 26 ECU) all by myself, more than 20 years ago. And that was long before even TIM.

So common, it's a meme.

Note I edited my post, so Sleeper's quote is not the same as what I meant any more.