GTSBoy

This thread pumping out the fat lols again! Time for V3?

One is neutral, the other is reverse. You can actually work out which is which for yourself by probing them. One will be closed (short circuit) in neutral.....the other in reverse. FWIW, on the small l box, I think the frontmost one is reverse and neutral is the rear one.

The 20DET RWD box and the 26/20DET AWD box both have a reverse switch. The reverse switch wiring will definitely be on the diagram. I'm 2000km away from my copy of the manual, so can't easily look for you. Keep looking.

The only good sounding V6s come from Italy.

Not an issue. Do a google for "wire in water jackets" or "welding rod in water jackets" and read the thousands of similar posts on thousands of car forums. Common as muck, apparently.

No that's R33s. Or was that boats? I keep forgetting.

viscous LSD is not worth a pinch of dogshit. Never has been, only gotten worse with age. Millions of words on this topic posted on these forums.

The wiring diagrams, including wire colour codes, are all available in the R32 GTR manual.

In Adelaide I can think of several instrument workshops that specialise in fixing this stuff. One on Torrens Rd, been there forever, might be shut now - might have moved to Main Nth Road Prospect. Called Gauge Works. VDO Instruments used to repair other brand/OEM iinstruments as well as their own. There's a few guys advertising from outside the (Adelaide) metro area also. And I see a couple in Melbourne. There has to be someone in Sydney. A quick google shows these 3

I was going to say I wouldn't try to feed the Dakota square wave signal to the dash. But....if what they are saying about the output being a squared off sine wave means that it is still an AC signal (ie varies from -ve to +ve voltage) then it might work. The Dash circuitry is looking for a frequency of the voltage crossing zero volts. I t=don't think it's looking for rising or falling edges or peaks or any of the other possible features of a sawtooth / sine wave signal. Just the zero volt crossings. So therefore, if the Dakota's signal contains those crossings, it could well work. What won't work is if the squared off sine wave is all on the +ve voltage side - which is what the square PWM signal that the dash outputs is. That's a different way of conveying information. The AC signal is about frequency as proxy for speed (which is easy to understand in your head) and the PWM signal is about equivalent average voltage as proxy for speed (which is easy to convert to a computer understandable value). If I were you I would beg, borrow or steal an oscilloscope and check out what your speed sensor is doing at some known/calculated road speeds and compare with the charts in the manual. If they are on spec then the problem is in the speedo head and you might be better off taking it to an instrument workshop to get it fixed rather than bandaiding the incoming signal. This because if the speedo head is crook it could continue to degenerate and you'd have to keep tweaking the bandaid in order to maintain correct reading, right up until it stops working altogether or you reach the end of the range of correction available. It might be something as simple as a dry solder joint or a dud capacitor.

Given that that looks like a torsional fracture plane I can see exactly how that would demonstrate the failure mode I described. The outer ring of the bearing has clearly been twisted off of the rod. Perhaps get off your high horse and accept that it could have been your fault. Also, keep in mind that you're not supposed to use these on the road and that it is intended that skilled and experienced race mechanics/engineers set them up. That's people who already know the risks of what happens when these joints reach end of travel. Caveat emptor has never been so meaningful.

Seriously, there is far better than even odds that this was your own fault. Not attacking you, as it is very very easy to set these up wrong. If you don't keep the spherical joints close to the centre of their range of motion when the suspension is in the normal position, then they can reach the end of travel just with normal suspension movement and then they stop being a pivoting joint and immediately become a rigid connection. This puts all the force that would have made the suspension go up-down (or whatever direction it's supposed to go on that joint) go into the spherical joint's thread and it only takes a few of these bumps to snap them. I managed to flog out a couple of spherical joints (but not break them) by not having them sufficiently centred. it's really hard to make sure that all 3 sphericals in the GK-Techs are centred, especially when they are in their boots and doubly especially when there is grease on them. They are good like this. Which bearing was it? I'm assuming (per my long paragraph above) that it was one of the separate sphericals, not the pair of captive ones in the main part of the arm.

Put the ECU into diagnostic mode and find out fault code is registered. The procedure for doing this (assuming it's an R34) will have been posted many times, so just search for it.

Nothing's changed. It has been another ~8000km since the previous update. Haven't even looked at the GK-Tech arms since that post (ie, no problems that would cause me to look). UAS arms have been in the bottom of a box in the shed since then and I anticipate that they will never go back on the car. The GK-Tech arms are good. I did have some concerns with them to start with, as described in my earlier posts. Nothing that was not overcome. I made up some nappies to go around them, from clear PVC sheet and press studs. This to keep the dirt and water away from them as much as possible, so I can have lots of grease in the boots. The effort seems justified. Keeping in mind that this is 100% a daily road car and I would rather do something else on weekends than jack up the car, dismantle the front suspension and clean and lube "race only" FUCAs.

I can tell you that 25DE boxes definitely have different ratios compared to RB20DET. I replaced by R32 box with an R34 NA box and one of the ratios was quite noticeably different. Can't remember if it was 2nd or 3rd (was 15 year ago, since replaced with a box strong enough to handle a 25). I recall I was happier with the 25DE ratios - longer legs in whatever gear it was that it was most noticeable in. Anyway, the only value i have to offer is that it is quite likely that 25DE parts might struggle to mesh with 20DET parts.

That's definitely the case on R32, but I'm not so sure on R33/4. The tops of the towers, upper suspension arm mounts etc are the same between 2wd and 4wd on them (obviously not between 32s and the later ones) and 32s definitely have a completely different subframe and chassis rails between the 2wd and 4wds. But I _think_ that the R33/4 subframes and rails are a lot more similar to each other. There's still an issue with the space for the driveshaft. Just don't know enough either way to be sure. Having said all that......I think, if you were to bolt an RB26 into a GTST, using RB25 mounts, it would be very likely to end up at the same installed position relative to the car as if it was in a GTR on 26 mounts. Just my gut feel, not even broscience.

It's probably the only way to make the Z33 & 4s palatable. The rest of us think that the VQ3X engines sound like complete arse. Nasty mooing V6 noise. I was only thinking the other day of grabbing a cheap 350 to put an LS3 into. But then I realised that I also don't like the way that they look. But yes. It's a good idea. Lots of fun** to be had trying to make the various electronics talk to each other though. **ie, not fun.

They're not heat pipes. I think they're for assisting in removing the casting cores.

This cannot be true, as both pictures are of the same thing.

My TCS TB is still installed. Has never moved from the fully open position because there is no TCS CU installed to make it move.

Pretty much compulsory. It's the only way (other than an aftermarket ECU) to get the engine to run without emo fault codes about missing TCS, ABS, etc etc. Plus there's all manner of bullshit in the boost sensor & stuff that needs to be gotten rid of. Search. Many many posts exist.

Idle control?

Sounds like it's just enough to pull a Mah de Grass float.

You'll likely need a throwout bearing for the clutch, if it doesn't come with the clutch. You'll likely need the correct transmission crossmember. The one that's under the RB20 box is probably the wrong one. They are stamped A, B and C. You can usually grab one of each from a wrecker/workshop and work out which one is needed then take the others back. The clutch MC should work. It would be hard to believe that they put an R32 MC in there when the right thing to do in the first place would have been to put in a 34 one. Not that it should make much difference in how it works anyway. Just get a new braided clutch line to replace the hardlines anyway. Easier and better than keeping and worrying about the old one. The speedo is possibly a no brainer. The RB20 box has a mechanical drive via cable to a mechanical speedo head. If you have an electronic speedo head in the R34, then there's no mechanical drive. So it would be more likely that someone found an electronic sender to fit the 20 box. That's not a common thing to do, because no-one really does the conversion that you have. All the knowledge is around making a hybrid drive from a Navara to suit the big box in an R32 to drive the mech speedo. You need to work out what you have in the way of a speedo drive and head to work out what you need. If you have an electronic setup now, then all you're going to need is the appropriate speedo drive for the box. Of course, the calibration might not suit the speedo head, seeing as it originally used to work with whatever automatic speed sensor used be in there. The tacho has NOTHING to do with any of this. You should do some searching on here for the thousands of words I have written on speedo setups for these cars.

Betraying English roots? We call the panel you refer to as a guard, not a wing.