GTSBoy

Be aware that a Hypergear turbo is not really a direct replacement from an engine management point of view. They make more boost and flow than the R33 ECU will be happy with. Talk to Tao about your options to keep the new turbo not so far away from the capabilities of the stock turbo so the ECU doesn't shit itself.

What car?

More than likely something in the system stopped working and that was someone's hack workaround. Probably not a good sign.

I don't think so. But discovering unexpected behaviours exhibited can be just as illuminating as when things do what you expect.

Well, yeah. I was hoping that it would be telling you whether there was enough gas in it or not. Tried it with it plugged in and unplugged? Yeah, thee R32 GTR manual has everything you need.

Pressure switch is healthy, right?

Is it climate control? If so, did you realise that there is a full diagnostics suite available through the control panel? See the R32 GTR manual.

Buy eBay $25 USB inspection camera. Poke through hole, inspect. You'll never regret spending the tiny amount of money.

That's probably responsible for the slowdown from 1200 to 1000. It heats up and closes.

Th curve of resistance vs temperature for the ECU coolant temp sensor is easily enough googled up. You can measure the sensor direct at its terminal to try to isolate the sensor from wiring problems too. The slowdown from 1200 to 1000 just sounds like the AAC closing as it heats. I can't remember from previous description....is that in the loop or blocked off? The RB25 integrated unit only has one air inlet & outlet right? With 2 paths through it? Like on the Neos? Some of the reason for my confusion here is that in your earlier post you said you "completely capped off the cold start valve"......but if there's only one air hose bring air to the combo IACV/AAC then you cap off both. Right? That RB25DE / KA valve pictured is similar but different to the 25 turbo ones, and I've ever messed with NA engines, so I'm not sure if I'm missing something. Does it also have one of these or something similar somewhere?

Oops. Correct myself. I meant "if the ECU believes that to be 20°".

Yeah, why use a kit. Just make mounts.

I can set mine down until it stalls. Just keep typing in smaller numbers.

No. The auto ECU wants to see 20°. If you set it to an actual 15° on the engine and the ECU believes that to be 15°, then your timing will be 5° retarded everywhere. As I said in previous post. No. The ECU "has" control over the idle speed. You can see that when you unplug the IACV the revs drop - meaning that that valve is closing down. When you plug it in, the speed increases. meaning that the ECU is driving it open. The 1200 rpm is a consequence of ECU action. If, however, the ECU had good control of the idle speed, then it would be driving it down to 650 rpm, not bumping it up. It is either bumping it up because there is an input (like air-con idle up, or some other thing) or a fault in the ECU/wiring that is putting more (PWM) voltage onto the IACV than is warranted by the idle speed. Here's another thing. I don't know if R32 RB25 ECUs have it, but delta idle speed control is a thing. If the idle is stubbornly high (ie, it won't come down because the IACV is not doing anything/blocked) then the ECU will reduce timing to pull the idle speed down. Certainly happens on R33/4 RB25 ECUs. For this reason there are things you have to do to ensure that the ECU is not trying to adjust the idle timing while you are trying to set the base timing. I'm not suggesting that this is what is happening in your case, but it is another excellent reason to look at the ECU via Consult to find out what idle timing target it is working to. It may be all f**ked up (ie faulty tacho signal) and think that the rpm is different to what it actually is and be trying to speed it up, for all we know. It's ridiculously high. I changed the idle speed setpoint down to 600 rpm in my Neo ECU (Nistune, remember) and saved an appreciable amount of idle fuel consumption, which I see in my actual fuel bill, because I drive through thick traffic on my daily 50km commute. 1200 rpm will absolutely pig the fuel.

No. I am saying that the auto ECU tries to run the engine at 20°. That's the advance angle that is in the idle "table" in the ECU. The ECU knows where TDC is (and so knows where 0° is). And with that knowledge, it deliberately sets the idle timing to be 20°. The manual ECU runs it at 15°. But also yes. You do need to set the CAS so that the idle timing matches what the ECU wants it to be. If you try to set the timing so that your auto ECU achieves 15° (real, on the crank pulley) at idle, then the timing will be 5° retarded everywhere, and you don't want that. The auto ECUs run more idle timing to help the engine idle against the load of the torque converter when sat in gear with the brakes on at the lights. Ah yes. I short circuited my brain. Because you're talking about an R32 I leapt straight to the RB20 style valves - not the RB25 stuff that you actually have. The brown plug is certainly the control valve. Nope. I have never used one. I have Nistune in my ECU so I use that, which is far superior to typical Consult software. When I said "Consult scanner" I literally meant a workshop grade Consult scanner - either an actual Nissan one, or Snap-On, or any of the other good ones that can handle most manufacturer's ECUs.

Auto ECU idles the engine at 20°. Manual is at 15°. 20° will idle faster. But.....the ECU appears to be controlling the speed and controlling it to be faster, not slower. If you unplug, it slows down, plug in and it speeds up. That suggests that the ECU is trying to increase idle speed (and achieving it) - not decrease it. Just for clarity - please explain which valve you are calling the IACV. The actual idle speed control valve that has a solenoid on it? Or the other valve that lives under the plenum and is the cold start fast idle valve that is electrically heated to it is open when cold and closes up as it heats up? You probably do need to get a Consult scanner onto it so you can see what the ECU thinks the speed is and how many "steps" the idle speed control output is running. And what it thinks the timing is running against what the timing light says.

Lexus LFA donk. BMW V10. Lambo/Audi V10. All + boost, of course.

Sigh. What jurisdiction would you be wanting to register it in? Aware that ADRs and state rego authorities make it quite difficult to register an engine transplant to an older engine than the car? My vote? Mercedes V12.

Shed skid, or GTFO.

Do the Ganadors fold? No. Therefore, they don't need or have all the wires needed to run the folding motors.

The engine has a boost sensor, but if the NA ECU is not connected to it and can't see any input from it.....what does it matter? The NA ECU will keep just running the engine as if it thinks it is connected to an NA engine. The CAS is the same. The AFM has a different calibration, but it's electrically compatible. As to why it ran well and now it doesn't? See my original reply. You've probably damaged it by doing the wrong thing. Te wrong thing is using the wrong ECU. Too rich. Too lean. They're both bad. You've probably cooked something.

Why would it not be possible? The ECU does not control whether or not you make boost. The ECU just has maps in it to say how long to open the injectors for each combination of rpm point and airflow meter measured load, and similarly, maps to say when to fire the ignition. Will those maps be correct for a turbo engine? f**k no. The fuel tables will likely be wrong all over the place. Could well be too rich down low. Almost certainly too lean in the boost regions. The ignition map will have too much advance and you will be at risk of destroying the engine. All this because the maps in the NA ECU are set up to work with a particular capacity airflow meter and particular size injectors. Your turbo AFM and injectors will both be different to what the ECU assumes and the result (fundamentally rich or lean) will depend on which of the thing (AFM, injectors) is further away from the assumption. Possibly/probably unning lean on boost is a simple effect of NA engines not needing anywhere near as much enrichment near peak torque as turbo engines do, because turbos will ping themselves to death if given lean** mixtures on boost. **where lean means "not actually lean, just too lean". Truly lean is anything >14.7:1, but in a turbo on boost, lean is anything >12:1, ie still pig rich by NA terms.

legend!

There should be no connection between what you have done and the problem that you have. So, either you have a bad coincidence, or you have somehow f**ked something else (unexpected) while playing with the fuel rail. Sadly, we'd only be guessing as to what that accident might have been. If the pump is not running, then the thing you should be doing is fault finding the pump, starting with the power and earth, to see why.

If I wanted to pass a 4" exhaust pipe under the chassis rails, I'd just make a flat oval section up, no more than 50mm high, but as wide as it needs to be to add up to more than the equivalent cross sectional area of a 4" pipe. That looks like a 2" pipe split down the centre, with a 5" wide flat spliced in top and bottom, or a ~6"x2" rectangle. Add offset transitions at both ends to 4" pipe, or just at one end and take the rectangular outlet all the way out under the sill.