GTSBoy

As large as you can fit. The larger the better.

I thought it was well known on these forums that you shouldn't buy parts from that supplier.

Ficksed mah useless speeliing/typing.

Almost certainly the noise is coming from the rotor face. Anyone how can afford R35 calipes can afford to hang a GoPro or similar camera on their suspension with the microphone pointed at the brakes. Diagnosis techniques for this kind of thing have been made infinitely more accessible in the last 10 years. But I would put money on it being the brakes and being a problem.

Slotted rotors? If so, stop worrying about it.

Just chuck a blanket on the parcel shelf and top of back seat?

More likely to be faulty IACV than anything else. In this case "faulty" mostly being dirty to the point of sticking open/shut when it is supposed to be moving. The ECU keeps cranking on it until it responds, and then it responds too far, hence the unstable idle and possible stalling when stopping. It's only like the 2nd most common question on here with literally thousands of threads to look through. I don't like the chances that the original fuel pump is doing 370awkW on E85. That would be outside the bounds of possibility. More than 99% likelihood of it being upgraded.

Why not just jack the car up, undo the caliper bolts and find out for yourself?

^ This is the sort of knob end I was talking about.

I'm not sure why you maintain the dry sump is race only and too much maintenance/work for the street. ALFA Montreal was dry sump ~1970. Street car. Many others the same. If I were going to build an engine to make a lot of power and use that power frequently (as opposed to the 800wHP engines out there that only come out of the garage once a month to go to cars and coffee), I'd be thinking that the cost of a dry sump system was an expected part of the overall build cost. Spend a heap of money on rotating stuff and not do everything possible to ensure that the oil keeps going where it's supposed to go? Who thinks that that's a good idea? What is it about a dry sump that makes it hard work in your opinion?

No, actually it has been fixed for years. Add a collar to short drive cranks. Use upgraded pump parts. Assemble carefully. It's the last part that has caught out so many. The majority of the failures* of good aftermarket pumps are attributable to people not paying attention to the fact that when they line bore an engine or do anything else that changes the relative location of the pump and crank, they need to make sure that it all still lines up. *Not including the failures caused by knob ends beating the living shit out of their engines by manging around limiter bashing like 17 year olds.

The 280ps agreement was already in the weeds when the RB26 came out. The R32 engine made more than that even without removing the bleed restrictor, and a lot more than that with it pulled. The R33 engine was more again. Those were nearly 400HP engines straight out of the factory. Everything on the RB26 was good for about that much power (the turbos, the injectors, etc etc). The real reason why the RB oil pump is the way it is that it (and the engine it was bolted onto) was based on the older L6 engines, which trace their heritage back to the 1960s and Mercedes engines that Nissan borrowed ideas from. Engines from a simpler world with lower redlines. Engines that were mass produced on an engine assembly line with absolutely no special manufacturing/assembly/tolerance efforts put in. RB26s were no different from any other mass produced Nissan engine at the time. So, as per others above, they were fit for purpose for the usage model expected of them.

If they are water pipes, they are turbo cooling. If they are not from a water source they are your wastegate boost lines. There is a vacuum hose diagram in the manual, and I think there is a water hose line too.

The wiring diagrams are in the workshop manuals, or you can google the diagrams up. And no, I don't have them with me.

I mainly plug it because I know that several bods here will always arc up about it. T56 is also concentric, so the sentiment is universal.

Well OK. In light of all that, my only remaining complaint is that it is much heavier than it needs to be (even in CF) simply because there's much more material in it than there needs to be. The TBO bodykit was always a fashion item, not actually intended to add performance. I'd look to the Abflug lip and undertray for iinspiration, plus add some strakes directly onto the front corners.

They're what you get when you put a man engine and man gearbox in your Skyline.

I wasn't disagreeing with you. Was agreeing.

Yes, quick change lines make the most sense on concentric slaves.

If you don't mind putting the single ugliest R32 lip ever conceived outside of the Veilside design studio on your car, then go right ahead. Surely the Garage Saurus style https://justjap.com/products/jsai-aero-garage-saurus-style-front-lip-nissan-r32-gtr is more than adequate, as well as being decent to look at?

R32. But not the ugly type. It's amazing what a few GTR panels do for them.

Yeah, export to the US is nearly as good as local wrecking.

Well, what do you think went on? Someone screwed on some spats. And of course they're repairable. Just take it to a panel shop and get it fixed.

No. The only socially acceptable thing to do is crash it into a wall.