GTSBoy

350 and 370 are just bastard Renaults and I couldn't live with one. At least the 400Z has dumped a lot of the Frenchness - not that I can afford to waste that much money on a car so my opinion on that matter is moot. Nothing can save the R33 from looking like a 1995 Maxima powerfully buttf**ked a 1996 Magna.

Aren't these the cars that everyone else says drive like a bucket of shit?

As all car's clutches feel different, even if they are supposedly identical, it's impossible to say what will happen with yours. I did clutch damper delete on mine (just retained the hard lines and did a little rerouting) and I couldn't feel any difference. On other cars I've done it on, it felt nicer, and on some it was bad. Real juddery.

Meh, either way? It's recreational money spending whatever you do. There is no value proposition. But, you're not going to get anywhere near the 550+ engine HP you have in the R33 from a supercharged VQ, and it is a ceentrifugal blower too right? So not even the promise of more boost from idle. The 370 might arguably drive better and put the power down better than the R33, so could be a better thing on the road, but it will not be as fast when stretching it out - only (possibly) faster in the cut and thrust of traffic, just off the lights, out of roundabouts, etc. But if you want to get away from all the foibles of a rusty old R33 into something that is only marginally less ugly, then now is the time. People are paying dumb money for Skylines.

I think the only available guidance is from gut feel. If the bearings were hydrodynamic bushes, I would suggest that there would be only a very small angle that could be tolerated. Hydrodynamic bearings offer no axial location at all and would allow the weight of the rotating assembly to float downhill and the thrust bearings would be carrying that load all the time. That would likely be counter to the design intent of the thrusts. If the bearings were ball bearings (and EFRs are, right?), then things are probably a bit different. A ball bearing will offer some axial load carrying capability when placed on an axial angle. The rolling elements will work up against the side of the race. The manufacturers of all such bearings do provide some information on what's acceptable in that regard. So whilst BW might not have said anything, it might be possible to infer what the limits are from inspection of typical similar rolling element bearing datasheets. Even without finding real values, the gut feel engineer in me says that you probably wouldn't want to be running higher angles than around 15°. That seems to be enough to me to make the rolling elements displace away from the centreline of the race. That gut feel may be just too damned conservative. For all I know they could be fine working at 30+°. This SKF chart shows that single row roller balls can work at light axial loads up to angles a bit higher than 30°. After that you need to use more special bearings or arrangements. I don't think that paired (ie, two separate single race ball bearings) would change that except that obviously every extra bearing you add reduces the axial load carried by each bearing. So, my non-scienticious gut feel is to stay below 30°, and well below if possible.

The thing to do here is work out what temperature the gauge sender thinks it is seeing. Measure resistance of sender with multimeter when it is clod and when it is normal but not shitting itself an when it is shitting itself and compare with the known resistance-temperature characteristic of the sender. The outcome of that will lead you to the next thing to look at.

Hotter than looks reasonable. A degree of mechanical/electronic knack is required.

Is not a replacement pill something one could make with a short bit of brass rod and a ~1mm drill?

I don't subscribe to that bullshit. But if you want to, go right ahead.

As opposed to every other GTR owner over the last 20 years who was looking to deliberately put a later RB26 in because they were better.

Not true. Good diagnostics available out of any Consult ECU. Tell me you got the "no fault" code. No. Could be juuuuuuust enough to keep you going and then suck just a little bit too much every now and then. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge to see what it's doing at low and high loads. Look for bad wiring connections EVERYWHERE. At the ECU loom plug, at the ECU relays, at the field devices (CAS, AFM, etc etc), at the fuel pump, at the ignition barrel, at the fuse boxes, on the back of the alternator....everywhere. Write a list as you go. Be thorough.

I would suggest it's a US$5000000 R&D exercise to come up with a workable design for retro to the RB26. If HKS make it work, it will cost about the same to buy it from them!

I think you'd need to go camless Koenigsegg style valve actuation. So you can pop the valve open when you want it, rather than just move the whole normal valve event forward and backward wrt the normal lobe centre. It really is last gasp stuff though, because the petrol engine is going to stop making sense sometime real soon.

Yeah, I rubbished the idea last time the HKS project for this was mentioned (a couple of months ago). Not so much because it is a bad idea. Just because there seems to be far too much other crap beyond just a "retrofit sparkplug" required to make an old engine** work this way. **Where "old engine" was specifically an RB26. But really this has to be true for almost everything.

Use a 10mm hole punch & hammer?

Yes, this is aimed at using the VQ ECU and most of the VQ engine loom to go with it, but mashing it together with what you need out of the R34 engine and body looms to make it all work together.

No. Think more along the lines of laying the new VQ harness down on the floor, taking off all the insulation, stripping out all the wires in it that will not be needed in the R34, then working out how to put back in all the wires needed to work up against the R34 body harness (ie, dash, fuel pump, ABS signals, etc etc etc). See the Skid Factory video on YouTube on doing an engine transplant loom merge. There is no easy way. Only the lots of work way. And lots of understanding what the wires are for too.....

Which is when you then drop in the LS to suit the gear ratios.! /sneaky.

You will need to make a hybrid loom out of both the original car loom and the new engine loom. There is no easy way to do this. Quite doable. Just needs the work put in.

I think the answer is not to faff about with crappy old Nissan junk and put a TR6060 or something similar in.

Usually the gauge/sender. The correct approach here is to hook up a mech gauge and look at that instead. Then you will see what the actual pressure is and can decide if it's the electronics or the engine.

The rom packs are all available on the Nistune site.....stock maps in all of them.

I'd put a dollar on a dead output transistor in the ECU.

Did you clear the original code? Won't go away immediately.

I thought the intent of the thread was "optimisaton" anyway.