GTSBoy

Yeah, so try to post images with extensions that the internet can handle, not HEIC files which only arstyphones can handle.

Hola.

It's just not true. It does not have to be a "Consult". Professional grade scan tools from EVERY major workshop equipment electronics manufacturer will happily interrogate Nissan electronics. Things like Snap-On scan tools, etc. That is what they are for. This is why I said...

It's a race to the death between the oil pressure and the fuel pressure (from the tailshaft spreading the fuel line out across the underside of the car).

All Christian was saying is that if your OP here was to dump youtube content to increase views and adsense revenue, then we take a dim view to being used like that. It's just that the apparent mode of operation matches the mode described by Christian and used by others in just the recent past. If you're hanging around and contributing, then no foul. You can be a grumpy old man with the rest of us. It may well be better suited to the importing section - but that's for you an Christian to think about (more than me to think about, anyway).

Prolly too late. You only get an hour or so.

Oh, yeah, no arguing that the duty cycle is different. And a circuit car will go to those speeds for more distance and longer times. But, I suspect that if a tailshaft has a harmonic problem, that it would cause damage and shit itself maybe even on the first pass. A second or two of running at the resonant/harmonic problem speed is already a couple hundred revolutions.

With same diff ratio, tyre diameter and road speed, the tailshaft rpm is the same regardless of the gearbag's ratio. Given that very quick drag cars are probably doing similar road speeds to the fastest circuit cars (circa 300 km/h), and there will be many of either category that can't go that fast and so you'd have inummerable matchups between drag and circuit car speeds at smaller numbers, and given that they are probably using rather similar tyre diameters and probably using similar diff ratios, and...where any of those numbers were different they could quite easily be in opposite directions thus cancelling out.... I think you'd find that there'd be more similarity than difference in tailshaft speed between these two use cases, no?

And over it. Need to stop it coming through the floor.

What's an ARM? Have you checked fuel pressure?

You can't stall an engine at high speed.

By changing to a Halaltech and not having an AFM, typically. Or, they stall or otherwise carry on.

I'm not defending Haltech. They had some golden years, but their history of problem products goes back a loooong time before that and now. My bro-in-law swore off them 15 years ago. Same stuff. Firmware bugs, patchy tech support complete with total ignorance of what was going on. Doesn't mean that there are not 5 or 6 other excellent options - most of which were also born in Australia.

You wouldn't be buying bearings from Nissan. Surely? You have to replace them, so surely you'd be looking to buy the very best bearings available - which would suggest something aftermarket. The Suzuki example is not relevant - because a) motorbike, and b) Suzuki. The reason I bought Suzukis for my kids is that I have way more respect for the engineers of Jap car companies that also make motorbikes than I do for those that do not make bikes. The engineering required to make a decent bike is substantial, and it spills over into the car operations. Nissan do not make bikes.

Just be prepared to buy more than one set of bearings and use as required, putting the leftovers on the shelf. Normally this is the sort of thing that an engine builder would do that you don't see happen. They figure they'll use them one day down the track. You might never.

The actuator is not the cam gear. It is attached to the cam gear. But if you wanted to swap over the whole cam gear, then that would (should, depending on the health of the spare) work too.

But how thick are the existing shims? That's why you have to get them out. You have to measure each one, add the required changes in clearance, and then order new thickness.

No, the solenoid is not the actuator. The actuator is on the cam gear, to make it actually move when given oil pressure by the solenoid.

Per Duncan's post, Street version has no VCT, doesn't do AC, DOESN'T HAVE KNOCK SENSORS. OK, so you can use the higher end ECUs to claw those things back. But.... if I'm going aftermarket ECU, I'm not using a cable throttle. And...where is that? Um...

Sounds like VCT actuator.

Just go to a quality workshop that has a quality scan tool and ask to plug it in for a few minutes. Throw them a six pack.

Get a scan tool on the Consult port and see what the TCU has to say for itself.

Seeing as they don't have one at all, yes, must be added. I think that MaxxECU is one ECU that I would not consider using. There is no shortage of good choices, so why use something that appears to not be a good choice. I mean, shit - I'd use a Speeduino before I used the Maxx.

I dunno. Maybe. There's a crowd here in Oz called Precision Shims that I'd probably look to first. Although NIssan might be surprisingly cheap enough. Trouble with the process is you have to take all the existing shims out to measure them to know what you need to order.

I'm going to vote for considering going to the effort to close the lash down to the minimum. My bro-in-law got around to checking the clearances on the 3SGE in his Caldina. Was a bit fat all over. New shims at lowest allowable lash, and the car is remarkably better to drive. It appears that the increase in both total lift and duration that you get from doing this is worth a lot more than you might expect. I have been having evil (and expensive and time consuming) thoughts about doing it to mine, and I don't even think I have a problem. Not that I'd know, though.