GTSBoy

Oh.

Check all the small coolant hoses around the inlet manifold, heater hoses, etc, and the big rad hoses to see if any are likely to to explode and leave you stranded with a cooked engine. Take along a selection of heater hose and small bore hose and some clamps if you're even more paranoid, plus coolant, etc.

Two body brackets & bushes. Two droplinks.

Why go to the effort, when you can get coilovers with the eyelet bottom end that will suit? It's the same bottom as on R32 and R33 turbos. It's not like it's kindergarten level equipment vs. GTR & GTT </flexx>. But yes, the knuckles will swap.....not that it's needed.

Depends on how well it controls. Bleeding a 5psi actuator up to 15 psi would probably not work as nicely as bleeding a 15 psi actuator up to 25. But different kit will always work differently. Try it and see. Change it if it's not good.

Neo NA ports are tiny. The 20DE Neo would be a poor choice for a power build. The 25DE Neo is a poor choice for a power build. The Neo head (turbo more so than the NA) is a good thing, the threat of spat shims notwithstanding. It is hard to quantify how severe that threat is. Not enough datapoints to really tell the story. It seems, though, that most people running sensible sized cams have no problem. Neo is superior to 26 because of factory VCT, if nothing else. 26 flows more (I think) without any extra work, but that is easily changed in any serious build anyway. Neo combustion chamber is smaller, which is an improvement. None of this is new knowledge. It has all been posted on here before, over the last 20 years.

Why did you do the install before working out that it is going to cost you many thousands in engineering and underdesk handjobs to get it approved?

Small car from a million years ago. Paint engine bay by throwing buckets of kindy paint at it?

I'm looking forward to the wedding photos to see exactly how many groomsmen are going to be fit into an R34 coupe.

These are not consistent statements, assuming that the comp tester is working correctly. There is no reason why a well built, not worn out RB20 shouldn't return >150 psi and really it should be >160. Something is f**ked. Whether it was rebuilt by someone who just didn't give a shit about piston/bore clearances, roundness, rings gaps, etc, or never bedded in properly, the comp tester is telling you lies, etc.

Hardly.

When you hit a pedestrian, explosive charges pop the rear of the bonnet up to provide more crumple space above the engine to soak up the pedestrian/car energy to reduce injury. These are, obviously, self destructive and need replacing after such a thing. There are hundreds of posts by V series owners on here whinging about it. Look them up.

Especially considering that this has been generally known since the mid 90s.

Ha. You're about 15 years too late for that to be realistic.

25 years of discussion on these topics. Do some searching on here first. I have personally posted thousands of words on the matter.

Given that the seats themselves won't be legal.......

Interesting. Probably worth your while to consider getting the calipers off, stripped down and checked out. Some new seals might be justified. See if the pistons are all moving freely, etc etc.

Oh, I'm interested for Nistune, but I don't have time to play with my car these days. Too much f**king work all the time.

Damned inclined gravity caused by the speed of light.

Oh, I did misread. Either the AFM wiring is not right, or the idle control wiring (or the IACV) is not right. Or, the million other random things it could be a car that has been hacked apart and then hacked back together. Seriously, just one wrong wire somewhere could cause all this.

RB25DET ECU is the wrong choice. There are sooooooo many differences. Use the 20 ECU. And the 20 AFM.

Multimeter will tell you where the power is and where it isn't.

HICAS is shit. Just buy a delete kit and move on with life.

Obviously the sarcasm simply did not register.

Fingers crossed.