GTSBoy

If you just want to raise the boost, don't f**k about with trying to fit an adjustable actuator. Just put a bleeder on it (replace the stock boost solenoid with the bleeder setup) or an electronic boost controller (Profec, etc) and turn it up to no more than 10 psi. Plus what Ben said. There's no benefit to messing with the BOV anyway, and I should refuse to call it a BOV, because in reality it is a compressor bypass valve. Something you should be familiar with in supercharged applications.

No, not true. What is true is that the high load high rpm corner of the fuel map is disgustingly rich and the equivalent corner of the ignition map is disgustingly retarded. This means that the engine will drink fuel, make black smoke and no more power as you increase boost above ~ 10 psi. It becomes pointless. And there's nothing you can do to fix it (easily) in an R33 ECU, because there's no easy reprogramming option. R32 and R34 will happily take a Nistune board. R33 (ECU) is the red headed step child that no-one loves.

Really? France. The home of Renault. 50% of Nissan-Renault.

Roll the car into a Nissan dealership?

240SX in the US. Had that godawful KA ute motor in it.

Besides the fact that they're all shit?

Both sets of extractors (VL or 31) will connect to the motor. The difference between them is purely how they fit the car. As you have an R31, you'd be silly to use VL ones, no? And you will have no concerns about whether the R31 extractors will connect to your "catback" because you're probably not buying a catback off the shelf exhaust, and likely just getting a custom exhaust, no? In which case the exhaust guy will make it all line up, because.....that's what they do.

The red side is probably 3 cylinders running leaner than the other 3. Lean = hot. Not rich = hot. You want more rich here.

Excellent. Add boost and send it.

There's a lot of rollover noise an these boxes.

But....but....here's the thing. You have wheels. You know their specs. You know how they sit. You can get under the car and measure clearances to internal components exactly. So why are you asking what will fit? You can work it out for yourself with a dressmaker's tape measure and arithmetic.

3HP or 4kW. No more.

swimangel88 ditto

Define usage model and how many miles you expect out of it. An engine that can make 600rwhp but spends 99% of it's life driving to and from the shops is nothing like something getting drifted by a backward flatbrim vape addict. Know what I mean?

Oh. Is that what it looks like? </shudder>

It will only cost a little more to fix the existing bumper than to paint a brand new bumper. And you won't have to buy a new bumper.....

Yuh, it was clear that you were talking about front rack, seeing as you wouldn't/couldn't have HICAS on an NA car anyway. I was just pointing out that HICAS/non-HICAS shouldn't make a fundamental difference in the way the front rack connects to the car (mechanically and hydraulically) because it is an independent system anyway.

It's probably a ratio difference. Can't see any reason why they would be incompatible in any other way. It's not even as if the rear steer was hydraulic on a 33. And even on an R32, where the rear is hydraulic, the two circuits are separate anyway.

This is very expensive. Equivalents should not cost much more than $1100. Like https://www.efisolutions.com.au/bosch-1650cc-short-fuel-injector~120071 Which are not the same size, but about the same thing. Perhaps you have to pay $20-30 more per injector for a matched set. Still a lot cheaper. This is not really required. It will help, but there are better ways to do it. Read the last 100 pages of the oil control thread for the consensus.

This is nice

For what reason? There is engineering sense, and there is fashion. Engineering sense first, fashion last. You'll never get me to choose something that looks "better" but works worse.

That's not true. There are currently 72 genders and every time someone questions that, we add one more.

Only where suitable mandrel bends are not available. It's not good for flow (compared to a smoother pipe).

I would suggest that it is for some additional lights added to the front of the car intended to splash a lot of light on closeup objects that you're about to run over because you shouldn't be driving a car. Where "you" refers to the person who fitted the lights.

Patchup will cost $3k. A proper respray will cost 10.