GTSBoy

I don't like it (the mesh intake). Mesh has a much higher blockage fraction than you would think. Causes a pressure drop, but doesn't actually do any air cleaning worth a knob of goat shit. Better to do it properly and get someone to make you a carbon tube to site a proper airbox/pod on the end of. There's always someone nearby who knows how to lay up carbon. My sister-in-law does it (as an example of what you might consider to be an unlikely person).

Turbo should be fine on 12 psi. The 10psi limit is less about the turbo than the ECU going too rich and retarded. You can't have the standard DET ECU (can you?), so you shouldn't have that problem. The turbo itself should be fine at 12 or 13 psi forever (barring bad luck).

Cool story Hansel. Put the normal thermostat back in it. Low temp thermostats are stupid. How much more power did it make? What time did it gain at the circuit?

It was Slick 50, and their stuff is PTFE (Teflon), not anything silicon. I'm also pretty sure that the demonstration did not involve driving all the way around the country. I think it was just a closed track test. And. Or but .... Something about their demonstration was suss as all f**k. It was a Holden straight six. Can't remember if it was a red motor or a blue, but it doesn't matter. They said the engine was completely standard, that all they did was ran the Slick in it per instructions then drop oil and drive it. But engines with hydraulic lifters can't run without oil. They .... just... can't. The other thing about it is that hydrodynamic bearings need the oil to prevent the bits of metal banging into each other. Not just from a wear point of view, but also from the mechanical hammering point of view. If you do not have the oil in the bearing to keep the metal apart, then the crank will smack into the main bearing cap every time the piston gets pushed down and smack into the block when the piston gets to the top and probably bounce up and down and left and right according to whatever horrible harmonics are driven by all that, and those short, sharp mechanical impulses are definitely NOT what the doctor who designed the engine ordered. The rod bolts and the main bolts will not be designed to take the loads over those short time scales. The caps could actually be distorted by such loading and fatigue and crack. Same with the bearing webs in the block. Slick 50, as an engine oil treatment, could really only legitimately claim to offer protection against the no oil-pressure moments immediately after each startup (which is a legitimate point of wear in any engine) and as an emergency protection in case of sudden loss of all oil, provided the engine is shut down before the bearings get beaten to death or the lifters collapse and cause the cam lobes to beat the followers to death, etc etc.

It makes good sense from a fundamental flow point of view. The very best turbine outlet is a pure cone, growing at 7-10° from the turbine outlet diameter to the main dump pipe diameter. Nice and straight, no bends. That's the ideal - straight from the mouth of a Garrett R&D engineer. These details are all about obtaining the best pressure recovery (across the turbine - not trying to maximise pressure in the exhaust, which is what we normally mean when we talk about pressure recovery after a disturbance). The shallow cone angle is intended to prevent any unpleasant separation effects (that you get with wider cone angles), but this is one area where I suspect that the difference might be tiny. The turbine exit flow will be coming out with a large amount of swirl and will want to expand (purely from centrifugal force) and will push up hard against the wall. A wider cone angle would probably be indistinguishable from a shallower cone angle. But.... That horrible swirling flow is fine and dandy when it is trapped in a nice conical expansion. But when you drop it out into a suddenly opened up space (like the common turbine and wastegate outlet cavity in many integrated turbine housings) then you get a mess. The turbine flow does not have the opportunity to depart the turbine cleanly and instead causes horrible turbulence features that impeded what's coming out of the turbine. Worse, in many of these housings the wastegate flap is set up to open so that the wastegate flow is aimed directly across the turbine outlet. The two flows do ugly things to each other once the wastegate is open. Any divided dump pipe will attempt to prevent the wastegate flow from bashing into the turbine exit flow. There is some small chance that the divider might impede wastegate flow, but so long as the wastegate is large enough, this will only happen at low angles and the wastegate can always open a bit more. If the wastegate is a bit undersized, then it could be worse (for boost control). The divider will make the big cavity in the turbine outlet section a smaller cavity, which will edge it closer to the "ideal"....but only edge. Not actually a large improvement. But getting the wastegate flow out of the turbine flow is the main goal anyway. The main problem is that nearly every dump pipe is a horrible compromise wrt to the ideal. There is usually a 90° bend downward directly out of the turbo, there is almost no conical expansion, etc etc. Even a pretty nice looking divided dump will still have that. The main argument against divided dumps is that a big open dump offers more open area and a better pressure drop across the turbine, being better for spool. It might well be true. The argument goes on to say that the smaller diameter of the turbine dump on a divided dump causes higher velocity and therefore more frictional pressure losses (and therefore reduced efficiency) when on boost compared to an open dump. But that's probably not true. If the wastegate flow is interfering with the turbine exit flow, then the difference in the dump pipe friction is going to be small in comparison. All in all, the best thing is to use an external gate so that you don't have to even think about this shit.

Yeah, it's getting better after decades of being nearly impossible.

Nothing wrong with HPR 50. Bit thick for winter perhaps. But fine in summer in Oz.

There are no new ones. These are ceramic turbine, so all the ones that were going to die from natural causes died years ago and were replaced with the spare stock Nissan had, using it all up. Many have been destroyed since by stupidity (turning the boost up too far). Essentially, any 2nd hand one you can get that was in good working condition will likely be fine used at stock boost for the rest of time. They've had 20+ years to kill off the weak ones. Yo get one you'll just need to look at the forums for sales, FB groups (shudder), eBay, Gumtree, etc, for people selling them and try to pick one that is healthy. Import wreckers will also have them and might offer some warranty, which may or may not be useful if you don't install it immediately and discover if it is good or is hiding a problem that wasn't visible on inspection.

Adjustable control arms are arguably required BEFORE you even consider lowering the car. Just so that you can have the wheel alignment that you actually want.

Mines ECUs are just a remap into an EEPROM in a factory ECU. They are not "tuneable". They come with the Mines tune in them, and that's it. And the tune is shit. And they are a bad idea. And how would we know if their stupidity included fuel or ignition cuts at 5800rpm in 1st and 2nd only (remembering that it is actually impossible to implement "per gear" cuts like that on factory Nissan ECUs, as they do not know what gear they're in anyway!)?

f**k it off. Get a proper ECU. But even with that advice, the problem could be coming from a sensor. We can't fault find this sort of crap across the 'net very easily.

It's GCG. Not CGC. You could no doubt get Tao (Hypergear) to rebuild you a stock Hitachi turbo with wheels that are not much different in capacity to the original. He would have to have access to plenty of turbines and compressors that are approximately the same as the stockers. It's just that no-one would want to pay the rebuild cost for a turbo that could have been an actual highflow instead. It will cost the same. A small highflow will work against the stock ECU. But an important point to remember is that any highflow will flow more gas (and therefore air) at the same boost as stock, so will definitely push your operating point in the ECU's fuel and ignition tables further to the right. In RB25 ECUS, this will lead to more richness and less timing, which is not great. Will use more fuel and make less power than it otherwise could. An actual proper highflow, a better ECU, some injectors and an AFM are sensible modifications.

Sigh. What ECU?

Yes, but....make sure that you are prepared for bearings, because you will be exposing at least the rod bearings and when you do and find that they are f**ked, you would be equally f**ked (in the head) to put them back in that way. And if the rod bearings are f**ked, there's better than even money on the mains. And.....front and and rear main seals, plus a timing belt and a water pump, because you would also be insane to not replace them while access is easy. And look for broken exhaust studs. Plus a full gasket set, etc. Make sure you have the money required to put it back together ready, instead of sitting in a pile of parts until you scrap the whole lot!

Don't even have 400. Wouldn't mind 500. Can't see how I could use much more.

Yes, because that will fix the cylinder sealing issue. Yes, and it will cost whatever your parts cost is, plus a few grand. Your parts cost will depend on how baller your parts are. $15k buys pretty good parts and work for just a bottom end freshen up. But it is impossible to say whether it is good value or not without a complete list of what's included in terms of both parts and labour and machining.

Any more than ~500 engine HP is almost certainly a waste of time for a street car. But the UAE is not the real world, so real world rules do not apply.

Serious? They were like....random. Mass produced Nissan of the late 80s-early 90s. My doors are 5mm front and rear (and have only dropped slightly, so are still visibly even). My bonnet is like 2-3mm at the rear and and 4-5mm at the front end. That's GTR bonnet against GTSt guards, which probably shouldn't make any difference.

Apart from the bellhousing bolt holes onto the engine, there IS NO RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE GETRAG BOX AND THE NISSAN BOX. None. Nada. Zip. Nothing. Bupkiss.

Are you shopping for validation of your opinion? Or are you shilling?

Well, you're not going to be blending the Getrag with the Nissan.

I subscribe to all of the above solutions.

370. Same as all other RB25DETs.

Related. Not even in the same family tree.

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