GTSBoy

https://www.google.com.au/search?source=hp&ei=Cd8bYOvJA7WW4-EPz529sAY&q=rb25+flywheel+bolt+torque&oq=rb25+flywheel+bolt+torque&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzICCAAyBggAEBYQHjoICAAQsQMQgwE6CwguELEDEMcBEKMCOgIILjoFCAAQsQM6CAguELEDEIMBOgUILhCxAzoFCAAQyQM6BQgAEJIDOggIABAWEAoQHlDvB1itS2CnWGgAcAB4AIAB1QGIAcEikgEGMC4yNC4xmAEAoAEBqgEHZ3dzLXdpeg&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwir8v-_lNDuAhU1yzgGHc9OD2YQ4dUDCAg&uact=5

As if that's the only thing that needs replacing. Budget on doing every part in it that you can buy (because some parts can't be bought any more).

No. The butterfly is the throttle. It is the one and only control you have over how much air enters the engine and thus how fast you go. A fuel injection/carby specialist should be able to fix it for you. Would probably need bearings and/or seals.

It's not the alternator. If it has a Jap immobiliser, and you have depowered the car to change the battery, there is a better than even chance that the immobiliser is to blame. Can you take off and nuke it from orbit?

You can start with a better explanation and/or photos of exactly where the leak is. Gasket? Shaft? Corrosion hole?

Also, if the tuner tells you that the injector duty cycle shouldn't need to exceed 80%, and it is hitting 90%, then it could suggest a fuel supply problem. Dying pump, dirty filter, dirty injector(s), etc etc. Don't drive it hard until you've had it diagnosed.

Even money it's the ignition barrel switch. I have a little wierdness in my car that seems to point to that, but it's so intermittent that it's very hard to prove one way or the other without disassembling shit that I don't feel like disassembling!

I would have said that perhaps every RB30 head that was not on an engine at the moment was quite possibly cracked. Possibly being the reason it is no longer on an engine.....

3x as old, twice the mileage. Orphan. Not a turbo coupe. Therefore the RAV4 is better in every way. If you're cross shopping these things and RAV4s, you already recognise that there's no difference between a jacked up Camry and a jacked up (Skyline?), for driving around the suburbs and using the extra ride height to clear the barkchips when you need to get it onto the lawn to wash it. The only saving grace would be the much larger engine. But my 2.5L RAV4 accelerates off the line well enough to get in front of the Mini Clubman in the next lane. How much more does it need?

Why would an old Skyline crossover be a better choice than the smartest possible choice in the segment (being a RAV4)? Typical example. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2017-toyota-rav4-gx-auto-awd/OAG-AD-19381813/?Cr=0&gts=OAG-AD-19381813&gtsSaleId=OAG-AD-19381813&gtsViewType=showcase&rankingType=showcase

Yeah. Nah.

Least important information in the whole book. Least relevant to anything now, or when they were new. Because.....they never did those numbers anyway!

The first table in the engine section of the R32 GTR workshop manual says

Hot coils or igniter. Sus AFM or CAS, particularly in the loom connectors.

Here's an old thread from SAU on what looks to be about the same thing... https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267335-what-turbo-is-this-i-have-pics/

Ah. I see your response. 280Z would indeed be "dirty old". But....it can't/won't fit both a 280 and a 300. The 280 was an L series straight six. Any turbo for those would be a single turbo, needing to be T3 sized. I guess TB03 is in that ballpark. The 300Z was a VG30 V6. The turbos were single, but obviously the mounting location would be quite different on a V6.

So, the 0.48 on the turbine housing is the A/R of that housing. Which is SMALL. The dimensions you've given are not super helpful. The exhaust inlet flange appears to show 55mm on your verniers. That's neither the expected 50mm of a T2 housing nor the expected 58mm of a T3. Can you measure the other dimension across it, and the bolt pattern? The exhaust housing is definitely Garrett, not Nissan. The dump pipe flange is for Garrett style dumps, not Nissan style. The compressor housing is Nissan. It may not actually belong to that turbo originally. It may be a Frankenstein, cobbled together. The measurement across the outside of the compressor inlet is not super helpful. The inner diameter is the useful one. We can see from the verniers that the ID will be only ~55mm and that it hasn't been machined out as part of any highflow work. The actual inducer all the way down at the compressor wheel would be another 10+ mm smaller than that. Sadly, I'm not familiar enough with dirty old Nissan comp covers to recognise it. It is definitely really old - Nissan comp covers have had flanged outlets for ages. I can't even get a handle on physically how big the turbo is. Wide angle lens distorts percpective. Hopefully someone else can use the information here.

Give photos of the compressor inducer, turbine exducer, turbine inlet flange, casting marks on the comp and exhaust housings. Write out the numbers you can identify on that core tag. We can't see them clearly enough on the photo to be sure about anything. Measure diameter of comp inducer, turbine exducer. Measure OD of comp wheel and turbine if you can. Verniers are cheap.

No, it will be boost sensor or TCS throttle sensor or something that hasn't been dealt with correctly in the change.

Just drive at 3750 rpm in 5th and double what you see on the speedo?

Stock ECU? Should not have done it. As in, you should not have put an FFP on it. Change it back or change ECU.

Just contact MV in Adelaide and ask them who they would recommend to fit their kit in Sydney.

yup

Centrifugal chargers are for girls. Big twisted rotor or GTFO!

There's another switch on the side of the gearbag, looks like the reverse switch. THAT is the neutral switch. What you have pointed to as the neutral switch is just the loom connector. But more importantly, that gearbag doesn't look like an RB25DET box. Looks like RB20DET. That lettering cast in in behind the reverse switch says RP71, right? Compare with below image of RB20 box