GTSBoy

This is a load of crap. 1. Vertical turbos. Sorry, they ain't vertical. They are no more of an angle than RB26 turbos have been aftermarket mounted for 20 years. 2. TJI as a retrofit? In your dreams bitch. 3. The plenum is very similar to several sketches that I did and can possibly be found posted on peformanceforums about 15 years ago. Granted, I was sketching for a VG30, but it's the same idea had by me and probably 20000 other people. And the rest of it is nothing that hasn't been done by the rest of the aftermarket industry for years. The ignition mods for example. The only place where HKS has ever led in this area is the VCAM stuff.

Exhaust to suit turbo will sound like loud arse on an NA.

It's often an exhaust/turbo gasket.

Nissan/Import wreckers. The classifieds here and on other import focused forums. FB (ugh, shudder) groups and marketplace. Importers in Japan, such as Jesse Streeter and Import Monster. These guys can get stuff from Yahoo auctions in Japan for you if necessary.

Yeah, nah. The weight is nothing compared to the forces applied through the bolts.

I think you can lift the head off with both sides still attached. But you're not contemplating taking the head back off, are you?

I think you should be fine to just back them off, do the last two stages again. You haven't hit the "right" torque values on the way up last time, and if you are as low as you think you are, you probably haven't started to yield the bolts. if you have started to yield the bolts, they should be only "just" started, and I can't imagine that backing them off and bringing them all the way to their proper torque would be worse than just doing it right the first time.

In the R34 service manual that you can google and download.

Get the wiring diagram out. Remove the headlight switch loom plug and probe for where the power is supposed to be. That will tell you if you've missed something upstream (like the real fuse that you should have checked). Probe for continuity across switch terminals that are supposed to be continuous when turned on. Plug it back and in and probe to see if power turns up on the output side of the switch. Etc etc etc. Somewhere there will be a wire that is broken or burnt, or a fuse that is is open, or a switch that has melted or burnt in the wrong position. The wiring diagram shows you what you need to be looking for, and where.

Plus the pineapples, probably. Stopping the subframe from flapping around can keep the tyre pressed to the ground a bit better too.

Those Bilsteins above are for the GT with eyelet bottom. The GTT has fork bottom, like the GTR. But you can get B6s and B8s for GTRs, so I can't see that there would be too much trouble getting one for the GTT. I mean, superficially, you could just put the GTR one in. It will fit.

They don't have AU falcons over there.

Just report your own post and ask that it be brought to his attention.

She broke.

But when you say "OEM"....you don't actually mean "OEM" as in Nissan. You just mean OEM style, right? In which case, look at B6s.

Loose connection.....on just about ANYTHINg involved in running the engine. Battery terminal, ignition keyswitch, ECU loom plug, CAS loom plug, AFM loom plug, coilpack loom, etc etc etc. Or, it could be a fault in the CAS or AFM, etc etc etc.

Do you want to be cheap? Or do you want to buy decent dampers? Because Bilstein B6 is the minimum that I would recommend for direct fit dampers. Nothwithstanding that, I just typed "r34 kyb rear" into google and the first 2 hits were for an eBay listing and the actual web shop of this crowd here in Oz offering this https://www.superspares.com.au/2-rear-kyb-new-sr-special-shock-absorbers-for-niss~12193763

Neutral switch is on the RHS of the gearbox towards the front. There are 2 switches. One for neutral, one for reverse. You can try shorting the wires together to see if the ECU sees neutral. Google for pictures showing which switch is which.

Try to find the manual for the Clarion on the web? It should say how it's wired up.

Same thing, just in the opposite direction, no? The motor will go in one direction when you give it power one way, the other direction when you give it power the other way. If it will go one way and not the other, it tends to suggest that the switch that controls the connection of those + & - wires to the motor is up the shit, no? Generally (or at least usually) with these things, you need both switches (driver's and passenger's) for the passenger's window to work, because they are both in the circuit. When one is giving trouble, the other one can't make the window work.

Did you read the big post?

What he sed^. There's also a wierd halfway-Neo engine that appeared in Stageas at some point. It's got some Neo stuff on it, but is probably not a Neo inside. But whatever the case. There's no point/benefit to the proposed swap. It's either the same dog, or the one you have already is better.

Just about any double DIN car stereo with a big LCD screen would have a video input for reversing cameras. I don't know about how the signal and screen are activated in your car. AFAIK R33s didn't come with this stuff. Are you talking about some later V series or Stagea? Actually, I don't even know how the camera and screen are activated in those later cars either. But it is quite possible that there is a "reverse" wire that comes from the gear shifter reverse switch or from the BCM that would tell the stereo to switch over to reverse camera mode. Or, it could be that the stereo automatically does so whenever the camera signal goes live.

Neutral switch maybe. Just fix it. The rest of the data? Nope. all normal.

Why would it not?