GTSBoy

Is that you Johnny?

Yeah, nah. Cap should seal. Tank vapours should vent through the carbon canister in the engine bay. If that hose run is compromised, then yes, pressure could build.

There is quite a chance that running it with a large air pocket in it has overheated something and done the HG or cracked something, per what the others have said. The bleeding funnel I mentioned is not a bleeder on the rad cap. It's a funnel that goes where the rad cap is, to increase the head height of the rad to help get water in and air out. Makes the highest point in the system right up high above the rad cap. Same as the cut coke bottle mentioned above. Needs to seal in the rad cap throat fairly well though, otherwise it won't work.

The speedo drives in the small and large boxes are not compatible. And as the OP has found, the autos don't cross pollinate with the manuals either. So the correct answer for the OP is what he has asked for, which is a drive to suit an RB20 small box. Which I can't help with. They will be getting thin on the ground now.

Old hose cracked.

More likely it wasn't actually bled the first time. You don't want to hear it, but it's almost certainly the case. Got a bleeding funnel for the rad cap?

The trouble is that a deep fixed back seat interferes with the stock belt holding you in. Really needs to come through the openings in the seat to have a hope of fitting across the pelvis and touching the shoulders. On that basis, it's not kosher for the street either. A shallow enough fixed back seat to work with the stock belt is probably not worth the effort to do, if you know what I mean.

Define "bucket seats". Do you mean fixed back seats? You cannot have them in a 2 door car with back seats, because they must be tilt and slide seats that allow rear passengers to escape in an emergency. If you fit fixed back seats, then the car must be engineered without back seat occupancy. If you change to aftermarket seats, the mounts/rails/supports are actually the most important part and must be engineered.

You need to 100% know what diff is in the car before you change anything. Do not buy a thing until you know what centre you have, what stub axles, etc.

The stock viscous diff is a piece of crap. No good at 200rwkw, let alone 300. Although, if your car is an S2 with a helical diff.....then helicals are a good thing. Not ideal for the track, but should be good. But there are only probably about 10 cars in Australia with stock helicals (at least that's what it seems like).

Yeah - the diff. Something I thought about and forgot to get to mentioning. If the diff is a stock VLSD, forget about it. You need a proper mech 1 or 1.5 way.

It's a legit diagnostic tool. What does it smell like, at least? Brake fluid? Gear oil? Possum piss?

Well, there's your problem..... Very ordinary tyre for that duty. But....there are many other things you would probably benefit from changign also. Yes. Yes. Bigger would be better. 245s might be OK with more sticky rubber. Alignment for circuit track will not necessarily be ideal for drag launches. Spring rates and damper rates for circuit will not necessarily be helpful for drag launches. Subframe alignment (or lack thereof) can be set to benefit lateral grip or to benefit launch grip. Can't be both. At least the R34 has got less anti-squat than the older (R32) rear ends do. But it can still be improved for launch.

What does it taste like?

Well, any time an ARB is too stiff at one end it will push that end towards loss of grip, particularly when the surface is slippery. So on the rear the trend is towards oversteer. Now, if you want the back end to be completely detached and you aim to drive it everywhere using spinning rear wheels to provide direction as well as thrust, that's good. But otherwise it can make the back end overly nervous, prone to mid-corner detachment, which is not fun. A quite stiff front bar (like you have now) will generally make the car's turn-in behaviour good. It will react to steering quickly and start turning the car, without that rolly feeling you get on soft barred setups. But if it is too stiff that can quickly turn into mid corner understeer immediately afterwards. When you put on a stiff front bar, you will generally need to beef up the rear bar too, otherwise the balance will very likely be shifted towards understeer. But going overboard generally leads to the situation in the 1st paragraph. Big bars also reduce the independence of the suspension across the car. So a big rear bar means bumps on the inside wheel get transferred to the outside wheel, which also contributes to the problem of sudden slip. The two philosophies of suspension are; Light springs, stiff bars. This is intended to allow full axle bumps to be absorbed (ie both wheels going up and down together because you've hit something in the road that covers the whole width of the axle) and the bars control body roll, Stiff springs, light bars. This means that the springs are responsible for controlling body roll, with the bars really only used for tuning the balance. Or, you could go anywhere in between. It's a spectrum baby.

There is no way that a 20mm solid bar on its "soft" setting will be anywhere near as soft as the 16mm solid bar. The change in arm length from "soft" to "hard" on a typical bar is about 20mm, on an arm length that is about 300mm, maybe a bit less. So, in the order of 10-15% change. The stiffness of solid bars varies with the FOURTH POWER of the thickness. Thus, the 20mm bar will be 244% of the stiffness of the 16mm bar. Or, 144% additional stiffness over the 16. A +/-10-15% change on that still leaves the 20mm bar over double the stiffness of the 16. When I put bars on my R32 I put adjustable 24mm on front and rear. Set stiff at the front, soft at the rear. Was too stiff at the rear. Replaced 24 rear with 22. 24mm bar is 141% of 22mm bar stiffness, or the other way to look at it is 22mm bar is only ~70% of 24mm bar. Damn near perfect. Could possibly handle being a 20mm, preferably adjustable. 'Twere I you, I would go with suggestion for 16mm bar. It will be 229% of the 13mm bar's stiffness (assuming the 13 is solid, which it probably is).

To be fair, a GPS speedo to heads up display is probably the best way to do this sort of bodge.

The S13 dash will require a +/- 1V sawtooth AC signal from the speed sender. It cannot tolerate a squarewave 0-1 or 0-5V signal. So make sure the Bluewire device can do that. I can't tell you about the S13 specifically, but it is very likely to be the same as R32 GTR. In which case, there are waveforms shown in the GTR service manual for the speed sender's signal for various roadspeeds. Just download it and have a look see. The S13 one should be in the same ballpark for pulse rate at speed. Of course, there's always the possibility that it is a few % different or even a factor of 2 or 3 different. Is there are useful S13 workshop manual equivalent to the GTR one available?

Wow. Notified that someone reacted to my post above (the first one from Oct 16) and realised just now that I completely hamfisted the signals. The gearbox sender makes the +/-1v sawtooth (AC) signal and the speedo head in the dash converts that to 0-5v square wave PWM signal for the ECU. I must have been on cough medicine that day.

That seal that goes up over the top of the mirror triangle is just the top end of the whole door seal. Just have a look at it, then follow it down the door, under the door, and back up the rear end of the door. Kudos, Amayama, etc.

Shoosh you. You should know that my rant in that MaxMDMArods thread was about all the f**karound he had to do making his wunhunglo turbo work, claiming that it was cost effective. Having to rip it off again to port the wastegate and all the other shit does not a good experience sound. I didn't respond to your raised hackles in that thread because I couldn't raise the energy at that time. I can bare;y raise it now!

If that's the case, then you would be better off with the subframe that matches the car, because the centrebearing height determines the angle of the rear half of the tailshaft, not the gearbox. If you change anything else, and not the centrebearing (which probably can't be easily changed anyway, not without some surgery), then it wouldn't be "right". That's dependent on the heights being different, of course. But I wouldn't put much money on that being the case.

Probably not true.

The gears have to mesh. It is possible that if the gear in the box is not the right one for the gear on the sensor...... that maybe you get no rotation.

No. Proper wax is made from carnuba palm leaves. It is an organic wax. There are synthetic waxes, but genuine carnuba wax is superior to a lot of the the synthetic ones. Ceramic coats are..... well, they're ceramic. It's somewhat in the name. But to a certain extent that really depends on what product you're talking about. Pro grade coatings used by paint specialists are a hard ceramic glaze. The consumer level products a that come in a spray bottle can be almost anything, and some of them are probably a hybrid between a true ceramic glaze and a wax. Ease of application and requirement for repeated use (which is a high value for consumer product!) are defining characteristics of consumer grade stuff. Sealants always go direct onto paint. Wax always goes on top. You cannot hope to make anything stick over the top of wax. Rejecting contamination from outside is what wax is all about.