GTSBoy

I should think it is swappable. Probably best done by a trimmer to ensure no mistakes, but possibly done by self.

Stock ones available right now. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R33-Coupe-GTR-Speaker-Mounts-/154146567186

Hmm. Money pit seems to be the right word. What's the interior like?

Shouldn't think so. Different fabric on R32 GTSt vs GTR, so I think it's the same issue on the 34s.

Can't really see the point in paying Driftworks prices when there are exactly as good options locally.

The shafts are all the same length. (Provided they are both to suit non-ABS diff housings). As in, the spline end is same same regardless. Your problem will not be this. Same dyno? If not, there's no way to know if the difference is real or not. The bindi-ness of it could simply be that the LSD in there is a fairly tight mechanical. "An LSD of some sort" is not a lot of information to work on. Surely this is something you would want to know about your car, right? Anyway, I don't think you have a problem. I think this is mostly in your head. Stop worrying and just thrash it like it was supposed to be thrashed.

Correct answer has been given.

The thread topic says "sealant over wax", but the real question is really about "wax over sealant", yes? In which case, as junkie says, yes, 6 years is long enough to need to redo a ceramic sealant. No, there is no problem putting wax on top of a ceramic. Probably not necessary, but nothing wrong with it. Wax is always a good thing. No, you could not put ceramic sealant over wax. The paint has to be bare. There are specific wax removal steps before most sealant application.

Shouldn't. Not to the extent that you're talking.

Thermostat not closing is most likely culprit for running cold. An engine will definitely drop temperature on overrun without fuel, but the thermostat should close and after that it should stop falling as rapidly.

@admS15That looks like a 1.5 way. Assymetric ramp angles. What djr said is correct. The ramps define how much of the locking power is applied on accel and decel, (ie 1, 1.5 or 2 way) and the rest of the diff (the number of clutch plates, springs etc) in the mechanism define the breakaway torque. You can make a 2-way diff with low breakaway torque that will behave nicely without clunking, but it will open up earlier than you might like. Or you can make one that might as well be welded. Cusco have a range of different diffs that cover that span and some even offer adjustment of how tighjt they are.

You do realise that they're just dirty, right? The yellow is varnish, cooked on from not having suitable oil changes. The black is grunge baked onto the base circle where/when it doesn't touch the bucket. Unless you clean them up and find that they actually have worn through the face, they are fine. But that engine has been owned and operated by an utter f**kwit at some point.

As if there is any such thing. They're all rooted, and they were never any good to start with.

Yes, you can use LSD oil in non-LSDs. Not ideal, but fine.

Point 1. Large diameter wheel + its tyre will weigh more than a smaller diameter wheel + tyre. Wheels are heavier than tyres. More unsprung weight is always bad. Point 2. With more weight located further out from the hub, it will actually accelerate more slowly also. Unexpected result, but real. Big wheels suck power. Point 3. Very low profile tyres are not necessarily going to give the best grip on real surfaces. The sidewalls have to be too bloody stiff, to prevent the rims touching the road. Point 4. The sidewalls are seldom stiff enough to prevent the rims touching the road. They will get damaged. Point 5. The rear's are sticking out most horrendously. I would expect the guards to make contact with the sidewall on any significant compression. Point 6. Can you tell us what the stock size tyre is and what size tyre is on the 22s? If there has been a significant increase in rolling diameter, not only will the speedo calibration suffer, as mentioned above, but you might find that you can't turn the steering wheel to full lock without rubbing tyre on inner guard. There's also some risk of bump contact at the front too.

Can you please restate your problem with a bit more detail. It's almost impossible to understand what it is doing from what you have posted.

No. The pressure is a function of temperature. The boiling point of water (at sea level) is 100°C. At that temperature the vapour pressure created is 1 atmosphere (101.325 kPa). It is at that point that the steam can jump out of the liquid phase. But at all temperatures below 100°C (and above 0°C if you want to be fussy about only talking about the vapour pressure originating in the liquid phase) there is a vapour pressure. It is very low at low temperatures and it rises to 101.325 kPa at 100°C. And, it increases above 101.325 kPa as the temperature exceeds 100°C, if the water is in a trapped volume (ie, it can't flash to vapour because there is no room for it to do so). That last bit describes a cooling circuit perfectly. Put a 20 psi radiator cap on the top, which will relieve at 20 psi absolute (about 5.3 psi above atmospheric pressure, or ~36 kPa above atmospheric) and it will hold pressure right up until it reaches that temperature and pressure and then the cap will open to relieve the excess pressure, venting hot arse water out into the overflow. Open the cap when the engine is hot and the thermostast is open and you will instantly allow a quantity of water to flash to vapour, driving steam and hot arse water all over the place. This usually leads to 3rd degree burns and an extensive hospital stay, bill and use of morphine.

Simplest like for like fix? Head to wreckers, buy some from a Maxima or other highish spec Nissan of similar vintage to the R34. Quite possibly will have the same thing. Otherwise, you can buy all sorts of tweeters to suit split systems that you will have to create a mount of some sort to hold them in place of that original one. The tweeters you pictured do look absolutely tiny though, so you will not be wanting big dome tweeters. I'd recommend domes, but you'll definitely be looking at the small end. Maybe go off into the wild and look at something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Porsche-Cayenne-S-955-9PA-2004-Bose-Tweeter-Speaker-7L5035361A-J139/383880936628?hash=item5961163cb4:g:Vq8AAOSw~Jhf68Ls

Sigh. Why do you want to replace them? Dead? Want more?

Small ones.

ATF is thin and runny. That looks quite heavy.

I just (last month) bought a front and a rear for ~$40 each, right here in Australia, genuine Nissan parts.

Prolly just a little bit of non-acid silicone, or a PU type body sealer from 3M or Sika. I'm sure if you just go browse the shelves you'll see one that meets the requirements.

Valid question is valid. I think the answer is no, T25/8.

Take the socket over to the bench grinder.