GTSBoy

I would have said Century. If it's only a month old then it should be fine, unless you have somehow managed to drain it flat too badly too many times already and killed it. Why don't you do the current drain test?

While that's true in general - on a particular engine, retaining the same mode of induction (ie turbo(s)), then the relationship between torque revs and power remains fairly constant. More power = more torque at about the same rpm.

No.

Logical place to start would be to consider the button to be broken. Nothing lasts forever.

Although - why anybody would want Poncams when Kelfords and Camtech exist is probably the bigger question.

There used to be 264/264/8.5 cams for the RB25. They were definitely a thing. I don't know if they are still current or not.

First point - you know you're wasting time and money, right? There will be no benefit from this except to make the horrible dak-dak noises louder. Second point - what year of Impreza? They are not all the same across the 25 year history. Show a photo of the engine bay in question? Third point - Here's a photo of a pod in an Impreza engine bay, as taken from a google search for same. The box between the pod and the intake pipe is the AFM on that model. Fourth point - Here's a photo of a probably more recent dak-dak. Note that you cannot see any AFM. I think they have it integrated into the airbox on these. If yours is like this, it might be a bit of trouble to replace the airbox and relocate the AFM, which might not want to be separated. I don't know - I had a 2010 Forester for many years and never lifted the bonnet, so I wouldn't know where the AFM was.

The answers to at least one of your questions will depend on why you want to replace the headlights. What is wrong with them? f**ked lenses? Is the back of the housing OK?

Not necessarily "normal" behaviour. But there might be nothing "wrong" with the tracker. It's far more likely that your battery is crap and can't tolerate what would otherwise be a completely acceptable current drain. Put an ammeter in the power lead to the tracker. Report how much it's using.

That's sad. Any decent private workshop down here has at least one good scan tool.

But that was always clear.

The way is the way that I have always preached. Go to workshop with a proper scan tool. Takes 5s to hook up and read out.

HICAS CU could be going into fault after that time.

Yeah, and none of it did any good to us! Just makes life harder.

No, it's the opposite of super random. It is 100% fixed. Tends to suggest that the display is not getting the value that you want it to. 85% is likely one end of the possible range.....

nah, that's TCS.

T stands for Transmission, not Traction. It's a standard acronym* used when talking about controlling autos. *although it does not meet the definition of an acronym, which is an abbreviation that can be pronounced as if it was a word.

The TCUs like to talk to the (factory) ECU, so they know what is going on. Take the factory ECU away from them and they pack a sulk. If you want to do that, you need an aftermarket ECU that can pretend (to the TCU) to be the factory ECU, to keep it happy.

The R32 GTR workshop manual has had RB20DET wiring diagrams in it for the last 30 years.

In through the main air inlet hose that is. Don't confuse the water passage with the air passage.

Mine was giving grief recently. I alternated doses of carby cleaner, WD40 and Subaru upper engine cleaner until it started controlling again. Did not feel like taking it off.

99% it is the IACV.

Yuh.

From recent experience, the very best stuff for this is signboard. It's the stuff they use for real estate signs and the like. Thin sheetmetal each side of a thin plastic core. ~3mm thick. You can score it to bend it. You can roll it around a mandrel to make a radiused bend. With a couple of little bends put into it it becomes massively stiff, because it's already pretty stiff, being a composite construction. Duck's nuts for undertray/ducting work like that.

So, the sarcasm went right over your head?