GTSBoy

It's unlikely that an engineer, particularly a Japanese one, would work in grams per second as a flow rate. Far more likely to work in molar units. The molar weight of air is 28.8, which is intriguingly close to the ~23.5 number that you came up with as a "factor" - but far enough different to probably not be it. I'd bet they were working in standard or normal volume units (which are basically a mass unit because any volume at a set pressure and temperature will always contain the same mass of the same gas).

A long time ago K was the only tool available. Matt has since added another way to deal with rescaling for different injectors and AFMs that doesn't f**k up all the TP limits and other stuff that hangs off it. Also prevents you having to extend the load axes on the maps. I went to all the trouble to extend the maps (both load and revs) and then interpolate and extrapolate before he did that. It would have been a lot easier if I had waited a few months (this was years ago) until the update, because I would have only had to do it in one direction (revs) and not the load axis. Anyway, fear not. Play with it extensively. if you f**k it up, you only have to put it back the way it was before the f**kup.

You don't need to even rescale maps any more.

It's definitely a case of "it doesn't matter". TP stands for "Theoretical Pulse". I'm an engineer who does combustion for a living and really couldn't be bothered trying to do what you've just tried to do. Waste of time. Doesn't matter. it's just a load scaler. Adjust K to make the mixture right is about as hard as it needs to be.

But is it really? Just because prices have gone up, doesn't make these cars any better. They're still the same dirty old Nissan shitbox they were 6 years ago. There is nothing "magical" about a factory turbo Skyline. There;e never been anythign magical about an NA shitter that has been converted, even if absolutely everything on the car has been swapped to turbo spec. The fact that the cars are worth more right now doesn't mean that dropping a bunch of cash on turbo converting an NA has become a better idea. The car hasn't improved, only the market's perception of what it's worth, which is close to meaningless.

So, let's unwind this a little. 1. You had blown fuse. Replaced it, and the relay. New fuse remains good. 2. ??? 3. Profit? But seriously, is the pump running? If it is not running, is it at least getting power onto its wiring when it is supposed to? What tests have you done? Listen for pump? Multimeter on the power wire? Fuel pressure gauge? If we presume that it is not running, having failed any or all of the above tests, that would explain why you're trying to pull it out, yeah? So at what point in the process of pulling it out are you having trouble? Have you unscrewed the clamp ring? IS the plastic hat just stuck on its seat/o-ring?

FFS! It was 6 years ago.

Did you search? I typed "convert R34 GTT to GTR site: www.sau.com.au" into google and got..... https://www.google.com.au/search?q=convert+R34+GTT+to+GTR+site:+www.sau.com.au&spell=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjK9bKazcLtAhVywTgGHYbNC7MQBSgAegQIBRA0&biw=1765&bih=883

If the ECU is getting a speed signal then the HICAS CU is getting it. They're all on the same bus. (So long as you haven't damaged the appropriate wiring, that is). The signal goes nowhere near the "pump". There is a solenoid valve on the front rack. That is PWM controlled by the HICAS CU to provide assistance from hydraulic pressure. It could be stuffed. Check for voltage there and see if it is still even receiving power. If it is not, then the power feed wiring could be at fault. I burnt that wire when my oxy sensor had a severe problem and damaged a couple of wires (they run in the same loom).

You just have to go through the map on the handset and write down values.

You should test again with a known good tester, just so you know where it really sits. Mine are all up around 170 (on a Neo) on a recently calibrated known good tester. That's about as good as it gets. >200000km too. The amount of timing and engine will take is a direct measure of how efficient the engine is. The more timing, the less efficient. A high static compression ratio and valve timing that traps a large % of the intake charge in the cylinder creates an effieicnt engine. The high comp is making the most out of what you trap in the cylinder. The valve timing is not wasting flow that was drawn into the cylinder, thus maximising power from breathing capability. Conversely, a low static comp ratio is not making the most out of what gets into the cylinder. You make less torque when you have less expansion after the bang. A high comp engine will not tolerate as much timing as a low comp engine. It will ping. Same with boost. Take an engine with boost and a tune that is right on the edge of pinging, add some more boost - insta ping. Same with just adding compression. So, a healthy RB25 with lots of boost on 98 might not want more than 20-22° of timing in the middle of the rev range. But if that engine is down a lot of comrpession, it might be able to swallow a few more degrees without pinging. The "low efficiency" state of the engine can be compensated for (a bit) with added timing. Not as good as having a healthy compression ratio and less timing, but certainly better than having both a low comp ratio and no timing! Another question comes to mind. Weere in the timing map are you seeing 28°? Just at high revs, or at max torque revs? What is the timing like in the 4000-5000rpm region? Can you show us the map?

It's not really the block, at least wrt the harmonic issue. The 30 block is certainly not as good as the 26 (typically, on average, there are always examples at each end of the bell curve) simply because it is taller. The squatter shape of the 26 block makes it stronger in a few places where it counts. The harminic issue is in the crank. This can be minimised with a billet crank and upgraded balancer, as well as careful tolerancing etc etc. Every last detail helps kinda thing.

Seat mounts (at the least) are a little different. I think the inside end of the front rail on the floor (the actual steel crossmember that has the seat bolt hole in it) is at a different height in an R34 to the earlier cars. It's why it's no easy task to make an R34 seat fit into an earlier car. Thus the carpet might not sit nicely there.

Traction is the other thing though. When you have a knife edge boost response at higher rpm, the sudden transition to torque and power is more prone to make the tyres break. It is so much better to be applying torque to the road at lower rpm and gaining speed, Makes them tend to stay stuck to the road for longer. Not to mention it is more modulatable.

Keep me in mind. I'm continually tempted to buy one and if you don't want yours.....

Also...compression and leakdown test time. Low comp might make it tolerate a lot of timing.

There is no sync setting on a PFC. It is not a general purpose ECU. It is set up to work with only that type of engine and its original CAS. So it expects that CAS to be set to the right timing wrt the crank. The timing numbers shown in the igniton table in a PFC are supposed to be exactly the same as the engine angle, so long as the static timing was set correctly at idle, as previously discussed. If you instead crank the CAS forwards or backwards from "correct", then the ECU could be saying 28, but the engine actually be + or - from there by however much the CAS was moved. Also, ignore the 20°BTDC static timing number that Josh gave you, as it is for RB26. Manual RB25s are 15°. if yours was originally an auto (and the PFC is for an auto - which I don't know is a "thing" anyway), then 20° would be correct. But either way, Josh's sentiment is correct. It would just be a question of whether the error was 5 or 10°. Even 5 would possibly be fine, because 22-23° is not outrageous. Not as outrageous as 28, anyway.

While I don't disagree (I actually agree completely, except perhaps for most R32s not having H4 globes!) - just adding the relays doesn't actually solve all problems. The original headlight switches are intended to have a certain amount of current flowing through them. This current does what is called "wetting" the contacts. That wetting action is a big enough arc as the contacts make and break to burn off some carbon, basically keeping the contacts clean enough to keep working. When you remove all that load and get the contacts to just switch a relay, the current being switched is no longer enough to wet the contacts and they can start to build carbon. It can actually be worse/more annoying than the high current too hot scenario that we try to solve with the relays. The answer is to understand what is happening and deal with it appropriately.

Kudos. $40.

I dunno man. You've already done what's needed to put a 30 based engine in. The damage is done, the pipework is set up. At your power level you're really going to feel the difference if you drop 10% capacity.

I would agree, and is the meaning of my first post in your other thread. But, further to what Murray said, I would append to his sentence "assuming that the timing values being discussed are correct, and there's no mechanical problem causing the ECU's angle to not be the same as the engine's angle".

Just search eBay for the location in your car you want to put them. ie, R32 climate led or R32 dash led, etc.

What build?

Listen, this shit is very simple. Step 1: #1 sparkplug out. Step 2: Engine to TDC firing on #1. You will have to convince yourself that both cam lobes are facing away from the cam followers on #1. Use a screwdriver down the sparkplug hole to find TDC. This is done by marking the screwdriver against some feature (the edge of the hole for example) while the piston is rising and close to TDC, then rotate past TDC until the mark is back in the same place. Note the engine position at the pulley timing marks for both. TDC is halfway in between. If TDC is not right bang smash on the TDC mark on the pulley - there's your first warning sign. Step 3: Now that you know that the engine is mechanically telling the truth about TDC, the next paranoid step is to make sure that the cam timing is not 1 or more teeth out on eaach/either cam. Timing cover comes off the engine. You will have to rotate the engine several times until the timing marks all line up at the same time. If you cannot every get them to line up, there's a significant warning sign. You simply can't get the ignition timing to make sense if the cam timing is not. Step 4: Throw the PFC in the bin. Sorry, got ahead of myself there. Um, Step 4: After all this, it is just a case of the usual stuff. Using a timing light (properly) to check idle timing against what the PFC says the engine angle is. "Properly" means disconnecting the TPS and triggering the timing light correctly. If the PFC says 15° but the engine says 5° on the pulley, then you have probably missed something in the earlier steps. Step 5: Throw the PF ....ah nearly did it again. Step 5: Find a better tuner. A good tuner is not necessarily a good mechanic. There is no such thing as a "good tuner" if they are not also a good mechanic when you are trying to solve this sort of problem. Also, trying to fix this sort of shit while the car is strapped to the dyno is a dumbness, because it costs a lot more to fix strapped on a dyno than it costs to fix it on the other side of the workshop.

So, the top one looks like one of the original globes and the bottom one looks like one of the generic LEDs you can buy to put into these things off eBay.