GTSBoy

Name a time when that hasn't been true.

Yes. 1ms worth.

Shit brakes too, by the way. That generation of Sumitomo calipers are flexy. You can hear them creaking under heavy brake application.

That's what he said.

For a motor that will feel better everywhere in all usage models, a 30. Every time. The only way that it is let down compared to a 26 is that elastic need for revs and the extra little buzz you get from running to 11ty rpm. But I'd rather more torque and power everywhere. Put the 26 block in the shed for later purity restoration. Although....in a 32, I am against the shitty mods you have to do to squeeze a 30 into the engine bay.

Yes. But traction arms is a silly name.

The big issue I have is when someone says "HP" I have no idea whether they mean at the engine, at the hubs, at the tyre/rollers or otherwise. And often when I try to find out, the response is "what do you mean?" But the beauty of the conversion between HP and kW is that it is 3/4 or 4/3, depending on which way you're going, which is dead easy. And if you're willing to accept a standard 25% roller dyno loss, there's another 3/4 or 4/3 straight up. So in that situation (and that situation only!) 150HP at the tyre is very close to 150kw at the engine.

Nice Tri-Y extractors, 3" cat, 2.5" pipe with a centre-offset muffler under the floor and a nice big 2.5 oval muffler at the rear. Same recipe as every other NA straight 6 engine.

PS is literally (enough) the initials of horse power in German. But it is only the automotive standards organisations that cling to PS (and all the French and Italian equivalents) in reporting automotive engine power. You can bet you're last Pfennig that the German engineers are all thinking in Watts and the SI multiples thereof. They just convert to PS as the document goes out the door.

You used to be able to buy these as plastic clip on additions for standard arms about 30 years ago, then (or possibly before) they started turning up on OEM arms as little deflectors to increase the normal force of the wiper blade on the glass. Intended to stop chatter. This was all with old style conventional multi-element spring type wiper bodies. The deflectors are purely aerodynamic devices for producing force. Not for snow, not for looks (because they look like shit because they make the wiper appear bigger). The new Bosch aerotwin style is a completely better mechanism for getting the wiper to press onto the glass and has the "aero" part baked into the shape of the whole blade body.

Enkei RPF (ie, RPF01) are not forged, but are very light and quite strong - largely because very top end non-forged manufacturing techniques and large number of spokes. Not outrageously expensive either.

Look standard to me.

CO contact cleaner, not WD40. Then if you want to lube it you need some dielectric grease to smear on the contacts to try to help stop them arcing and building carbon.

You can do anything. But the main question is "why?" Just get your local exhaust shop to build you a 2.5" system with decent mufflers. f**k that Jap exhaust shit up the arse.

No. The internet forums are wrong. If you put camber arms on the rear, you need to put the rear radius arms on too (they are NOT called traction arms!). If you do not, you will be wildly changing the bump steer curve when you change the length of the camber arm. The car will behave like shit. Correctly setting the length of the radius arm is not trivial though. You WILL need the help of a good suspension specialist, unless you are capable of making and using a bump steer gauge of your own. I've done it. It burns about 20 hours to get it right.

Speed signal from speed sensor in RB25DET gearbox. Speed signal goes to R33 speedo. R33 speedo converts that into speed signal that ECU understands and puts it out onto the wire going to the ECU. It's all in the workshop manual.

Are there people who actually care about the original paint colour of f**king Skylines? Jeezus titty f**king christ! It's a 20 year old dirty Datto. It doesn't matter what colour it is. FFS!

And aren't foxes red?

Yuh. Try it both cold and also at ~70°C. It might not lose pressure when cold, but might when warm.

Shouldn't make any difference if it is a patrol or not. Are you using the RB25 ECU? The ECU runs the VCT, so all you have to do is make sure that; a) the ECU to solenoid wiring is correct, and b) you have the ECU satisifed in all the things it needs to make VCT work. The one that usually catches people out is that the ECU must have a valid speed signal from the dashboard (which originates at the speed sender on the gearbox, but the one the ECU needs is generated by the speedo head).

No. No.

Or, in relation to a hot looking slart to which you would give a torrid 30s of thrusting...."hit it like a red-headed step-child".

Yes, there should be pressure even at ~70°C. Not a lot, but some.

Also, that's not how cooling systems work. Radiators, fans, thermostats.

Or.... you could just go straight for the good ones.