GTSBoy

As Murray said, if it's just for trackdays buy a Sparco or Velo fixed back with appropriate mounts. Technically you should take it to the track and fit it there rather than drive to the track in it..... but take your pick of what type of inconvenience you'll put up with.

Like this. https://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-front-lower-control-arms-for-nissan-skyline-r34-98-02.html And the cheapo hoo-flung-dung brand ones on eBay also.

Hmm. I hadn't realised the GK-Tech R34 arms were -0+30mm. That only allows you to remove camber compared to stock arms at the same height. Their R32 arms are -15+20mm and allow you to have a bit of extra neg camber even at stock height, and lots of neg at any lowered height. There are aftermarket longer lower arms from Driftworks and the like, isn't there?

There are dozens of adjustable camber arms out there for the front of 34s. I would use GK-Tech (I have GK-Tech on my 32 - different design, but still....) and all the others are chinabay clones of the other simpler type.

Yeah, that's ^ pretty much the meat of the matter. The other states may or may not be different wrt how hard it is to get a seat install approved. I think it is possible here (in SA) but shudder to think what the additional cost would be, relative to the cost of the seats themselves.

No. If you wanted to get aftermarket seats with aftermarket mounts legal then you would need to get an engineer to do a report on the mounting system and sign off on it. What level of testing that requires is a bit unclear to me. There are obviously any number of motor trimmers, etc, that fit Recaros to all sorts of vehicles, who probably know exactly which engineer to talk to. (Not suggesting that they know which engineer will do anything shonky to make it easier for them - just which engineers have the best approach to the task). Alternatively, they may have had to do some possibly destructive testing on the mounts that they use, and once they have approval based on that they might get some sort of type approval to keep using them in the same vehicle type with the same range of seats. All I know is that if you go look at your state's vehicle standards website they will have something on there that says that seats must have OEM mountings or be approved.

As long as there is pleb pricing, fleet pricing, auto club member pricing, pricing for leasing companies, etc etc, there will be ways to work around any "fixed" pricing that might be mandated. As long as it is possible to buy a dealer demo, even if it has only done 350m off the back of the truck, through the forecourt and into the delivery centre, for a different price, because it is no longer strictly "new", there will be ways to beat the system. Etc.

That's because the rails are Japanese Bride, and the seats are Chinese copies. The Bride rails pricing wrt proper Bride seats looks more reasonable - a real Bride seat is a ~$2000 proposition. Whilst it is important that the rails/mounts be very high quality (even more so than the seats!), even the Jap Bride rails are not ADR approved. The "ADR approval" on the seats is pretty meaningless if the rails are non-compliant and/or not engineered.

The front steering rack is not piped to anything HICAS. The PS pump has a front stage and a rear stage. The front stage is piped to the front rack. The rear stage is piped to the rear rack (via the HICAS solenoid sets in the engine bay and at the rear). They only come close to each other at the pump. If you want to delete all the HICAS stuff, just pull it out. But, you will need to do something about the rear stage of the pump. There have been many posts on what and how to do that. The best way is to keep it and just pump PS fluid through it to a cooler and back. I replaced my R32 pump with an R34 pump, which is only a single stage pump. Of course, it came bolted to the Neo engine that I put in, but it's up to you to decide if that is the easier or harder way to change the pump situation.

Any of the places on the SEVS list that were importing them.

You don't need to change the rack. I didn't.

If those are the fuel lines, then it's fuel. Those hoses are very old. Nothing lasts forever.

2% of f**k all is less than 5% of f**k all which is 2/3 of the threshold for giving a f**k.

Clown. Have never done something like that myself. No. Never.

80% overlap will mean the amount of "bend" that can occur in the centre plate is approx 2% of f**k-all.

OK. Please go back and read your own OP. Then try to pretend that you're me not being able to work out exactly what you damaged and what is going wrong. Then come back and ask the question again. Are you asking what thread the stripped thread is?

Just fix it.

That was 130000 km overdue for a headgasket, ignition coil failure, and all the rest.

See here's the thing. For the last 20 years R31s have been exclusively owned by people who only frequent Centrelink, the cheesecake shop and the bottle-o. Most of them can't even spell teeth, let alone say the word, let alone have more than 30% of their originals. It hasn't led to R31s being very well looked after, for the most part.

The sticker is probably the extent of it.

I'm upset with the market because I would prefer it if my car was still worth $10k instead of probably $30k. Given that I am never going to sell it, the "value" now does me no benefit now, never will, and only actually causes me problems (insurance will cost more, replacing it should it get damaged will be impossible, mongs will want to steal it more than they did 5 years ago, etc etc).

Poncams haven't been the answer for about 20 years.

Well, there's ya problem.

Well, actually, removing hail damage is probably a bit different. Depending on how badly dented/bent the lower rail is, it might be straightenable by spot welding on rivets and pulling on them with a slide hammer, and other more direct means of applying force. But if it's quite bad, the answer would probably be to slice out the bottom steel work, re-make it out of sheet with the same features in it (folds/ribs/pressings/etc for strength, holes for drainage, screw holes for fitting the undertray and so on) and just welding it back in. Classic body building metal work. Same as they would do for badly dildo'd chassis rails.

We weren't. To be fair, while those things happen on RBs, they happen because of people being stupid in one way or another. When it happens on Subarus, it happens just driving down to the shops.