GTSBoy

That's what I'm talking about fixing. A panel beater can make that look good.

Bullshit! All three happen all the time, continuously and simultaneously.

I wouldn't unstitch the whole front of the car just to repair that. The lower rail can probably be quite satisfactorily straightened in situ.

Oooh. Surely it's better to go 370? There's 5 times as many available and while they are admittedly double the money, we're talking about something that's only ~7 years old, not something that's >12 years old, for the most part. But, having said that....there are a couple of manual 350Zs available for <<$15k. That's disturbingly cheap and I feel like I should buy one for later on.

Yes. A dildo did that.

As in - it's not a crossmember. It's the whole front panel - just the bottom edge of it.

The bottom of the radiator support panel?

I'm of the opinion that NA Skylines are only good for LS2 conversions.

Yes, essentially. The original wiring from the ECU will currently go as far as the igniter, then the coil loom runs from there to the coils. When you go integrated coils, you basically have to patch in the ECU wires that would have triggered the old igniter to now trigger each coil's igniter (so straight through) and clean up the power supply and earth stuff. There are guides available, but the fine detail depends on which car you're doing it to. They're mostly the same, but don't go trusting wire colours - trust terminals. Splitfires are direct replacements for whatever the engine originally had. RB20 and earlier RB25s were all dumb coils with the external igniter pack. Later RB25s and Neo25s have built in igniters. They don't even physically swap from engine to engine, because the coil mounting brackets change. You can see what Splitfires go with what engine by looking up the model number (say SF-DIS-001) and it will tell you what it suits. There are several models across the RB20-RB26-RB25 group of engines. Splitfires are a good easy swap and used to be the only game in town. They were probably never really any better than the OEM coils - they were just available new when OEM ones were old, burnt and cracked. Someone has done you a favour by putting them in there, and if you do follow the recco to replace them to banish the igniter, at least you can try to sell them for a few bucks to offset the cost of the upgrade. It's not as if you likely need to be replacing your coils. But if you're going to pay for a new igniter.....I know what I would be doing.

20k seems horrendous for an NA Skyline. But maybe I'm out of touch with what they're "worth" these days. That pod filter takes you almost all the way up to the legal limit for intake tract modifications in Victoria too! Is the original bonnet available? Because that one on there is unlikely to be legal.

I was thinking in terms of making sure a copied cam would work with the original HKS controls. But otherwise, yes.

Just get the master that you have resleaved. Take it to a decent brake shop and hand it and a small sum of cash over and come back for it the next day. Street car? The Intima pads are pretty good. RS front, SS rear works for me.

Well you could try fitting a fuel temp sensor or faking it with an appropriate resistor value and hoping that that is the only cause of the trouble. If it were me and I wanted to spend the least, I would buy an RB20DET ECU with Nistune fitted and use that.....except that if I was at that stage I'd now just buy a Haltech or a Link.

I was just thinking about this and figured that the grub screws would have to have been possible to copy if you had access to an original HKS cam to see where they have to go. I was thinking of shrink fit steel rod/stake/plug. But grub screw + loctite is just as good.

I think it is very likely that there is a significant problem with the ripped up Z32 ECU. That whole approach is so substandard these days that you should just abandon it unless you have the gear required to try to work out what it is doing. (Which is fairly basic workshop gear, a wideband, decent timing light and/or CRO, etc. Hell, if it was properly Nistuned, at least you could look at it in software.) Bin it. Put in some modern injectors that are big enough to be useful (like, EV14 based 1000cc from a reputable source), and start again.

Why would tutorials need to be current? Anything posted in the last 30 years will be the same.

Yeah. You can't just throw wrong sized injectors in an change the base pressure and have it work on the stock ECU. It will be wrong everywhere else. And what drugs were those f**kers on, putting 330cc injectors in? The stock 25DET injectors are ~370!

Suggestion from left field!

What the hell does that shit do? What the hell can that shit do, in that location on a rotating cam? Do they add some Hall sensors or something to pick up position?

Take the opportunity to get rid of it altogether and put coils with integral igniters in, along with an upgrade in spark power. Use Yaris coils for a cheap smaller upgrade, or R35/Audi type coils for a big fat upgrade.

Use the verniers to measure the distance between, say, 5 threads, then divide that number by, say, 5.

I'd like to think that their cam blanks would have enough meat on them to put any reasonable profile on them.

It might be cheaper if you buy 6.

Even a set of verniers and some squinting will do the job.

Or, you just buy a new cam from Kelfords with similar specs? Probably better than butchering the original HKS cam.