GTSBoy

Nah. A little from column A, a little from column B. That 100kg is worth time. Every other thing that could be different, from tyres to wheel alignment to happiness of the LH rear damper will chuck further confounding factors in. You might suck. He might suck just as much. Hard to tell.

It's not the plugs you need to change, apart from the gap. And if the Splitfires won't support a larger gap, then you need bigger coils. Small upgrade to Yaris type or large upgrade to R35 type.

The cost of copy engineering instead of proper engineering.

I'm not the only one that can't see the video. Note that bearings generally have a sacrificial tin layer. If the scratches are just in that, then they could be OK. But, as above, if the intention is to make a lot of power, then no doubts should be built into the engine as assembly time.

Is it hanging out in the breeze? If so, why? And no, you could not hydrolock your engine by getting the filter wet unless you drove it through a swamp. But a wet filter won't flow air.

Only about the 4th most frequent question ever asked on here over the last 25 years. The CASs are effectively the same thing. Just the pinout is different. Swap a couple of wires and presto, chango, it works. All searchable.

What?

You destroyed something electric. You can't find it. Take it to someone who can.

Auto electrician diagnosis recommended. He needs to find the smoke and put it back where it came from.

Yes, because the outer part of the pulley can slip on the rubber so that it no longer bears any relationship to the inner part (and therefore the rest of the engine). Pull #1 plug out. Find TDC firing. Mark new TDC on pulley. Plan to replace pulley immediately if the original mark is somewhere else!

It would seem that way.

There is a difference between "then" and "than".

Watch the skid factory video where they get a diff set up at Old Cock's. That should be enough to scare you off. I'm an engineer, and I wouldn't try to do it myself without the right gear and having someone to hold my hand the first time. The cost of getting it wrong is not worth it.

Why does the last part of this sound like it is untrue? Just work out what the signal to the original dash gauge looks like and add it as an input to a custom display element on the dash.

Have I not already told you that this is not trivial?

But....but.... When you typed the word "than", did you really mean "then"? Because that changes the meaning of the sentence entirely.

Explain. I can't picture a Skyline where the engine loom doesn't come out through the firewall/A pillar region on the passenger (LH) side of the engine bay.

3 minutes each side made the gaps in my wiring go away.

272+ degree cams will definitely have a choppy idle, but I've not seen what they're like on a ported 26 head on a really big capacity bottom end. The big capacity should help. I've driven 290° cams on a 2JZ and it idled like a motorbike (buzzy, changeable revs, clutch chatter like a bitch from the twin plate) but it was not struggle to get it moving and it was only soft below 2000rpm (IIRC).

So, the X is their custom code. That means that someone ordered those cams to those specs, or Kelfords were asked to come up with cam specs to suit engine parameters given to them. That spec sheet is interesting in that it differs from many of Kelford's off the shelf cam sheets in what lifts are used to spec durations. Nevertheless, it is pretty close to the 1mm lift territory I came up with, so I still think it will go well.

Yeah, but Johnny, it don't start at all. I'd be looking closely at whether the fuel fail is plumbed up correctly. In vs out, damper & pressure reg. Check the ignition timing while cranking. It needs to be in the right ballpark. Does it need the chip tuned VG ECU because of mods? Why is it there? It's just one more way that it could have problems. Is it possible to throw an RB25 ECU at it? (Probably not, would be my guess, because of loom plug differences).

Don't put Shockproof in anything unless you need it because of crunchy selectors. For f**k's sake, don't put it in the front diff. Use diff oils in diffs. A good LSD oil for the rear, a normal (non-LSD) diff oil for the front, unless it has had an LSD centre put in it.

The duration total or at 0.050"/1.25mm? Reason I ask is that that duration and that lift do not appear on Kelford's RB26 page. But nevermind, because I guess the specs are at the same lift as other Kelford cams, which is advertised duration at 0.35mm. So your 1mm lift durations will be ~242-245°. Moderately chunky! in which case, they will probably be great. You will benefit from a big cam on a big engine. Your flowbench numbers have ~72% of the intake flow on the exhaust, so, maybe just maybe the split duration is not all that required. But I don;t think it will hurt anything.

Yeah, but it comes and it goes. Some days I see it, others not. This has been going on for a long time, so it's not related to the recent software update. I use NoScript to kill most site automations on most sites (and block SuckFace and other trackers) so I'm always willing to credit odd behaviour of this sort of shit to my own hamfisted actions to cripple other stuff. But even if I permit everything to run on SAU I still get uneven behaviour on that stuff. That "popular on SAU" thing annoyed me every time it appeared on the lower RHS also. Mainly because it would hover over something else that I might want to click and I'd have to scroll. Trivial stuff, I know.

Switch them from side to side (temporarily) and tell us if the car is sagging the same way.