GTSBoy

The duration total or at 0.050"/1.25mm? Reason I ask is that that duration and that lift do not appear on Kelford's RB26 page. But nevermind, because I guess the specs are at the same lift as other Kelford cams, which is advertised duration at 0.35mm. So your 1mm lift durations will be ~242-245°. Moderately chunky! in which case, they will probably be great. You will benefit from a big cam on a big engine. Your flowbench numbers have ~72% of the intake flow on the exhaust, so, maybe just maybe the split duration is not all that required. But I don;t think it will hurt anything.

Yeah, but it comes and it goes. Some days I see it, others not. This has been going on for a long time, so it's not related to the recent software update. I use NoScript to kill most site automations on most sites (and block SuckFace and other trackers) so I'm always willing to credit odd behaviour of this sort of shit to my own hamfisted actions to cripple other stuff. But even if I permit everything to run on SAU I still get uneven behaviour on that stuff. That "popular on SAU" thing annoyed me every time it appeared on the lower RHS also. Mainly because it would hover over something else that I might want to click and I'd have to scroll. Trivial stuff, I know.

Switch them from side to side (temporarily) and tell us if the car is sagging the same way.

Or, there's the direct approach

Cracking. As said, they are famous for it. Close inspection with bright light & mirror while someone else pushes the pedal is a good idea.

Dipstick is about 10% of the cross sectional area required for a decent vent, so don't ever waste time doing that.

You can't take the solenoid itself apart. You can dismantle the valve (ie, remove the solenoid, remove the plugs to access the internal galleries, etc).

How far do you travel each second at 185mph? Start with that number and compare it to the length of the runway, then factor in getting to that speed and slowing back down. Runway goes away at a frightening rate. Set up the equations and integrate for distance if you're capable of the math.

NP. Happy to help. You put in some effort first!

Read the last 100 pages of the oil control thread.

It might be better if you just don't do this.

You will need to watch as many youtube vids on setting up diffs and read as much as you can - because it is not trivial. You will need engineer's blue and know how to read gear meshing patterns to know whether you have it set up right. If you do not set it up right the CW & pinion will eat themselves.

It's not just unverified. It's obviously not correct. As if there is a 1990 GTR around with only that many km! Comp test and leak down test it. If it comes up fine there is no reason to take the engine apart. The weak part of any RB is the oil pump. Read up about what you should do about that. The rest of it is just fuelling and oil/crankcase breathing control. Do what you have to do for those to keep it healthy. f**king crack testing the block and changing the water pump are a sure sign that your local shop have no f**king idea what they're doing, so run a mile right now and find a mechanic with a clue.

Do the calc yourself. You know your diff ratio. You know your tyre size. You know 5th gear ratio. You might have a better idea of how many revs it might pull at the top end of 5th (based on how much power the car makes, which we don't know either). You don't even have to do all that. Just drive it at 4000rpm in 5th. How fast is it going? Double that number for an 8000rpm top end. take 7/8 of that number for a 7000rpm top end, etc.

Perhaps if we understood why it matters to you.......

Yes.

Dismantle the main headlight switch on the binnacle and clean the contacts.

Speak to Kelfords in NZ about cams, etc.

If you use rust converter and then a self priming paint (like the Duplicolour chassic & rollbar paint) then it will all be good.

Send head to head shop. It probably isn't as simple as "digitsing, welding up and copying". The broad shape of the chamber can probably be done like that but any damage around the valve seats probably can't be fixed that way, and it would need to go to the shop anyway. Might as well just skip the geek-fest fun part of it and get the whole lot done by someone who's done it before.

I was guessing Ireland or Scandinavia.

As to diffs.... For proper drag, you want a good mechanical diff in the rear. Only needs to be 1-way for drag, which will also make it more livable on the street. 1.5-way if you want a bit more clunk and bang. The nicest diff in the front is a Torsen/helical. The Quaife is the obvious (and probably only) choice.

And a matching crank.

It's been exactly since the update and the appearance of the Invision changed.

Super high lift cams usually require clearancing of the bucket bores. This is a full head dismantlery exercise. Super high lift cams put quite substantial demands on the valve springs. They need to be able to take the lift without binding and to control the movement of the valve over the nose of the cam. Granted, it's not so bad when it is just high light at low total duration as when it is both high lift and long duration. Of potential interest is trying to get a cam profile with a really wide nose, to try to give the longest time at the highest lift. This will still give rather steep ramps (like a long duration cam would), but is probably worth it. But you would need/want to talk to a local supplier in Oz or NZ to discuss. You won't get it from those Jap cams. Lighter valves worth thinking about for all the above reasons. Lighter retainers, etc also.