GTSBoy

An unfortunate feature of the ADR rules stating that you cannot have a permanently illuminated light (ie, one of the taillamps) mounted further outboard than the indicator. Hence, all R32s grey imported in Oz had to have the wire to the outer taillight cut and insulated on compliance. But for the ADM GTRs, they came up with that more aethetically pleasing design and had the side benefit of banishing the reversing lights from the numberplate area up to the lighting clusters.

I dunno.

Yes, but Facebook is evil ball-sniffing bullshit.

Under that clamp/bracket the hose is swaged/crimped onto the fitting. Take the bracket off, spray it all with degreaser and rub it clean. Then drive it around for a bit and have a good close look for where the wet starts. If it is bleeding out of the crimp, it's pretty will f**ked. You can't fix them. It might have a crack in the hard pipe. This can be welded. Not in-situ though.

I think he might have been asking the question the other way around. ie, will the stereo pull more current on the ACC wire than it is good for? And of course, the answer there is also no.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-R32-Skyline-GTR-emblem-kit-Front-S-Side-GT-Rear-Nissan-badge-package/133384488968?hash=item1f0e55c808:g:HbUAAOSwuxZekaiJ https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-Nissan-R32-Skyline-GTR-GT-Side-Fender-Emblem-Badge-RARE-63896-05U00/143363273027?epid=1826229375&hash=item21611df143:g:7jQAAOSwxX9dYRu1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JDM-OEM-Genuine-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-GTR-GT-R-Fender-GT-Emblem-Badge-IN-STOCK/264654023043?epid=1826229375&hash=item3d9e9be983:g:S34AAOSwxD1eXU5t

f**k it off and get a new one.

Solid bush can't/won't break. You're just experiencing all the banging and crashing of mechanical shit that happens behind the isolation of rubber bushes. Solid bushing of everything will definitely lead to earlier death of some part or other though, as every mechanical bang and crash gets transmitted to somewhere where it used to be buffered.

Because it's just a 2 state bleed. It's a digital on-off arrangement. With Nissan it's X (where X is a fixed 5 or 10 or similar) psi from the spring with the solenoid closed and Z (=X + Y where Y is a fixed 2 or 3 or 5 or something similar) psi when open and bleeding. Mac valves are throttled by the PWM controller to give an analogue effect. With PWM control, it's X + A where A can be anything at any time depending on the limits of the bleed size, duty cycle limits, etc.

OK, so now we're a bit more clear. When you said "only have pulse on 1 & 3", that's not true, and it was conflicted by what you said in your first post "pulled the coils out tested it seams to have spark on all coils also pulled the rail off an all six pulse fuel out". What you really meant was "all cylinders except 1 & 3 appear to really suck". Could be that those other 4 injectors are too dirty to give you a decent dose, the spark plugs are shitty, the compressions are actually really shit and perhaps masked by oil in the cylinders, etc etc etc. We are not going to be able to remote diagnose this. I suggest you either take it all apart yourself and see what's inside, or take it to a mechanic for a little bit of directed and effective diagnosis.

Read Duncan's reply. You haven't fixed all your problem. You've only masked the bit that was annoying you. The OEM boost solenoid is not meant to be driven PWM.

Are you saying that when it is running it is only running on 2 cylinders?

Yeah, I think if it's not just glass out, then it is quite possibly glass out + mechanism out, to give you the required access to the spot you need to poke the bolt and swing the spanner. I'd suggest you got (un)lucky being able to do what you did to it as it was. Lucky that you could get the spanner onto it. Unlucky because you probably can't put it back together!

What that means is, at idle, the engine should be running 20° of advance. Your engine appears to be running 12° at idle, which presuming the synch is correct**, would be a bit retarded. Literally. Makes it sluggish and makes the idle exhaust temp a little hot, wasting fuel, blahdie blah. **which it appears to be based on your observation of what everything says when it is locked up. If the ECU is idling the engine at 12°, then that number should be easily found in the idle table/settings in the software, and you could change it to 15 or 20 and should see the result immediately.

There were auto Type Ms. It's not like Type M means anything particularly special. It's not the Vspec of GTSts.

The only CU in the RHS footwell on an R32 is the TCU. If it is/was an auto.

More realistically, dealing with the oil supply and drain side of the equation is going to be more important than whether the cam vents are a little compromised compared to normal RB26 covers. I mean, how are these any worse now than standard RB25 covers, right? So, read the last 100 pages of the oil control thread, do the right amount of supply restriction, add in some big sump vents to the catch can and make the best of it.

Starting to look much nicer.

What's an interior ECU?

This is why old 60s and 70s cars are boss. Not that they are fast. It's just the mabo of it all. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0nhkuJuBzI Jump to 1m25s.

Misha's Nurburgring M4 taxi runs on AR-1s. Flat out, lap after lap.

Track car = dry sump. Spend the extra $10k and delete the cam vents?

I would pay 10x R32 GTR asking prices for a clean '69 Camaro RS CS. But I was being quite tongue in cheek over the GTHO comment. Half mil for one of those was f**king stupid, as it is for dirty old Dattos.

Would it not be possible to simply put the engine into a milling machine and duplicate the machined surface?

I'm not sure he meant "custom" as in Nissan did it. I think he means "custom" as in "bodged into the heater housing by a butcher". Custom as in "jammed filters meant for something else into a hole hacked into the car". Etc.