GTSBoy

Again, based on what you have said, "not good for city driving" implies that it is a mechanical centre. If it is "not good for city driving", that would suggest that it is a savage 2-way diff, and that should be worth more like $1000. If it is real and in good condition. There is another way that a diff could be "not good for city driving", if it has been welded up. You can take a non-LSD and turn it into a locked diff. Totally unpleasant. It is also possible to chuck so many shims into a VLSD housing that the VLSD doesn't work and the shims act as a proxy clutch pack. A very bad idea, as it wears things that are not supposed to wear. I would suggest you ask for a number of photos showing the inside of the diff, well let and in focus, from a number of viewpoint,s and with the centre rotated to various positions so we can see what is going on with it. Also, what do you want it for? Street driving or drifto?

There's no such thing as a 3.7 ratio diff from a Skyline. 3.7 is a Silvia ratio. R34 turbos had 4.08 (auto) and 4.11 (manual). If this diff is a 3.7, then it could be any combination of Frankensteined together components and you should not make any assumptions about what it is and has. Also, if it is a Nissan viscous LSD, then you can't consider it to be an LSD. They are shit. $400 is at the extreme top end of asking price for a VLSD. They are only worth buying to get the housing and gears. The diff centre itself is not worth anything these days. If it is a 3.7 ratio, then it would suggest that it is probably not a VLSD, because no-one would go to the effort to change the ratio on a poxy VLSD. It would be a waste of time, money and effort. So I would assume that the diff is a mechanical LSD. If it is a mechanical LSD, then it is probably worth at least double the $400, depending on condition. If it needs to be rebuilt, then $400 is probably fair, but then you wouldn't really be wanting to go down that rabbit hole. You need to know everything about this diff before you consider buying it, unless you're happy to just throw money at it pot luck and see what you get. $400 is pretty small beer.

Yes and no. R200 diffs are all "basically" the same. But there are differences caused by auto/manual turbo/NA that can lead to differences in the length of the nose of the diff housing (and hence the tailshaft length and the ABS sensor types and positions). If you are talking about a like for like swap (ie, R34 turbo diff into R33 turbo car) then no problems. Everything should be the same. But if you want to cross pollinate, you need to know what the old diff has and what the new diff has and then decide if they're the same or not. That has more to do with the other stuff around the diff than the interface of whether the diff will bolt to the subframe. FWIW, the R33 and R34 subframes are essentially the same thing. Hell, the R33 and R34 are essentially the same thing under the skin in most places anyway. Most diff housings will bolt to most subframes (if not all** Skyline R200s bolting to all Skyline subframes). **Keeping in mind that the rear bolts on the diff cover are different between R32s and the later ones, but that's not interesting to you wrt your question, and easily fixed by swapping the cover anyway.

FWIW, I think even new sensors can be flaky wrt how and when they "detect" knock. The lack of reliability of RB knock sensors has been known for >20 years. They were still "new" back then.

STOP SMOKING IN YOUR CAR! It makes it stink like a crack whore's arsehole!

The ashtray body is probably common across a bunch of Nissans of the era and so all have the window even if only Maximas etc might have gotten a light to shine through it. Also, who cares about an ashtray light anyway? Your assumption about the light location for the cig socket is correct.

You don't need anything more sophisticated than the good old Ranex. They're all just phosphoric acid.

I very much doubt it. Remember what I said about "it implies bearings that get side loaded under torque input"?

Won't be turbo. Might be gearbox, input shaft bearing or some other bearing further back. If it's only felt once there is significant load, it implies bearings that get side loaded under torque input.

You can't do anything except disconnect the battery and pres the brake pedal for a minute or so to kill all power to the ECU. When you power it back up it will have forgotten its long term fuel trims and will start again. This might help, or it might not. The AFM you bought might be a nasty copy, and there is no guarantee that it has the exact same characteristic as the proper one. If so, it will never be any good. There is no "tune" possible on that ECU.

That's good for a giggle. It's no GTHO.

That's really tidy. Nice work. Treat it well and don't butcher it. It looks like someone may have already done some work on the front suspension towers. That grey seam sealer around the tops is not original. Not saying it's a problem, just pointing it out.

It's a plastic tank. Just syphon it out, put some fresh fuel in it, syphon that out. Rinse and repeat and burn the fuel in the lawn mower.

And sold.

Except that someone saw me mention it, and PMd me and now they're sold.

More information required. Was original Cefiro auto speedo sender electronic? What speedo sender (from what origin car, gearbox, etc) is in the manual trans? What does the speedo head in the Cefiro want as an input? Cable drive or electronic? (and I realise that what you have between the gearbox and dash must work, because you say when you plug it in you can see the speedo work, but I'm just trying to get the full picture). What does your wiring diagram say about the signal line from the dash to the ECU? You do realise that the speed signal that the ECU watches is created at the speedo head, right? Whatever the speed signal into the speedo head from the sender is (and it could be mechanical drive, like in an R32, or it could be an AC voltage from an electronic sender like in an R33) then the speedo head translates that into a square PWM signal for the ECU. There could be a difference in wiring at the ECU between the original RB20E plug and the RB20DET. You could be putting the speed signal into the wrong place on the ECU. The RB20DET ECU can and will run without a speed signal. Just some functionality doesn't work properly as a result. But this used to be the stupid bogan way of beating the 180k speed cut. So we know that the ECU doesn't absolutely need a working speed signal to run the engine and drive at more than 20k. But putting the speed signal into the wrong input on the ECU could be quite a bad thing to do.

Where is "halfway around the world"? I have a set advertised on here right now.

Most of populated Australia gets <500mm rainfall. We're nearly desert.

Sold.

Only from dead headlights/wreckers AFAIK.

The bit being held in the fingers in the top pic is part of the headlight assembly. Came with the car.

You only need one drive plate to be bound to one driven plate for it to not disengage, no?

OEM have the easy option of different pad material specs to set the braking torque also. That's why, when you buy a set of genuine pads for front and rear, they are unlikely to be the same compound. But when you put on a set of any aftermarket pad, both front and rear will likely be the same compound (if they're the same type of pad, not talking about the size/shape of them). And thus with an aftermarket set you will already have a bias change. That's one reason why R32s (in particular) often had excessive rear bias. Same (aftermarket) pads in front and rear. Go back to stock pads (if you can find them!) and the bias becomes less wrong (but still wrong, because I'm convinced R32s had crappy excessive rear bias anyway, but I digress).

Not everyone. My car was only in Japan for 6 years and appears to not have seen salt in the ~23000km it did. Some of us got lucky.

Give a man a match and he'll be warm for a few seconds. Set him on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.