GTSBoy

OEM have the easy option of different pad material specs to set the braking torque also. That's why, when you buy a set of genuine pads for front and rear, they are unlikely to be the same compound. But when you put on a set of any aftermarket pad, both front and rear will likely be the same compound (if they're the same type of pad, not talking about the size/shape of them). And thus with an aftermarket set you will already have a bias change. That's one reason why R32s (in particular) often had excessive rear bias. Same (aftermarket) pads in front and rear. Go back to stock pads (if you can find them!) and the bias becomes less wrong (but still wrong, because I'm convinced R32s had crappy excessive rear bias anyway, but I digress).

Not everyone. My car was only in Japan for 6 years and appears to not have seen salt in the ~23000km it did. Some of us got lucky.

Give a man a match and he'll be warm for a few seconds. Set him on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.

86/whatever Subaru called it.

That's what I was going to say. It's a lot of compression fed through the diameter of a washer.

Have you read the thread? The ones I showed you are for 2 door and are discontinued. The ones you want are for 4 door and are still available and the part numbers given. So contact Amayama, Partsouk, et al and see what they can get. Or Nissan.

eBay, amongst others, possibly even Kudos.

Or, failing that..... just buy ANY 3 pin plug/socket combo and redo both sides.

Here's the ones out of my shed collection. Bought from Just Jap last year. I note that they don't appear to list them at the moment. Note the poor spelling in the official Nissan naming. These are often referred to as door glass window stabliser (or spelled with a z for the US centric moronical world we live in).

Stock knock sensors are not really worth a knob of goatshit. They will miss real knock and detect non-knock. If there's a little more mechanical noise at one end of the engine than the other, ie valve train clatter or rod noise, then one will/may register knock that the other one doesn't. You CANNOT tune based on what the knock sensors are telling you. You can only tune using knock ears or similar.

Why don't you just, like, you know..... follow them?

Just about any non-who-flung-dung brand dial gauge will do. All you need is a steel plate you can bolt down to a coil bracket hole, a mag base and a couple of adjustable arms to mount the dial gauge, and maybe an extension or two to screw onto the probe. viz https://adelaidetools.com.au/hand-tools/engineering-tools/moore-wright-0-10mm-dial-indicator-mw400-05-14418.html https://adelaidetools.com.au/hand-tools/engineering-tools/moore-wright-magnetic-dial-indicator-stand-mw-475-01.html Might have to look elsewhere for extensions.

As I said, prep the rods. It's the very least you can do.

OEM temp gauges are buffered so that they should read pretty much halfway from about 60° to about 120°.

Every 6 months or so seems fair to bump. Price drop too. $250 shipped in Aus. Cheaper for local pickup.

Just prep the stockies if you're not wanting to spend money. If you're happy to spend some money, forged rods are "infinitely" stronger.

It won't be smaller. It makes no difference how big a flange it is wrapped around. The inlet to the AFM is still only 3". Pods suck anyway. I would recommend refitting the airbox with a few discrete mods.

MY engine conversion. MY experience. That which led me to KNOW what they want to see at Regency.

You can buy them from Kudos, JustJap, etc. Just search for "R32" and go through every item. You'll see them.

Been there, done that, as I said elsewhere/before. Engine conversion required full inspection. The blokes who do it are not silly, and they know the tricks, and they know the rules, and they will only be a little bit flexible on some of them. I've seen dipshits go back 3 times.

Well......if you wanted another pod filter the same-ish height, it doesn't need to have the same attachment method as the one you have now. The one you have now has that massive flange bolted to the AFM. Other typical pods have an adapter that bolts the same way, but only has like a 3" or 4" base. Just look at any googled photo of pod filters.

He's talking about the actual LED chips that are on the "bulbs". 3030, 3528, 5630 etc are the chip types, and some are brighter than others, because of physical size or current handling capacity or simply improved (newer) spec. All such LED dash bulbs are set up to give "even" illumination distribution. As even as they can be, anyway. But otherwise I agree with your comment. Bright dash lights suck nuts.

if it gets called in for an actual roadworthy inspection after the ID check (which I would expect!), then; Horn, demisters (front and rear), all lights everywhere - must be working. Seatbelts must not be frayed. ECU must be stock. Numberplates must not me bent, cut or otherwise modified (and this probably won't be an issue on an unreg car!) Seat foam must not be collapsing and dandruffing the floor.\ >100mm ground clearance everywhere. Must be above minimum eyebrow height at all 4 corners. Brake performance will be tested on their brake tester rig. Steering mods (ie HICAS lock bar) will be looked at. And failed, if present. Probably more.

Fixed that for you?

Yes.