GTSBoy

BK, You should copy most of your post out to a new thread with a clear title to serve as a searchable guide to these synchro inserts.

Why would such a thing exist?

Acceptable. I'm actually with you there. f**king Acacias. They only live 10 years then they sucker all over the bloody place anyway. Take it down knowing full well that it won't take long to replace it with something else.

Chopping established trees is about more than the carbon balance. This one tree feeds an enormous number of rainbow lorikeets, rosellas, and lots of other birds that eat the blossom or live off the insects. Recently the flying foxes are eating there too. The possums that live there are semi-welcome, if they learn to stay out of the roof! Habitat loss in the suburbs is a terrible thing. I'm lucky. I live in what amounts to parkland - there's thousands of such trees around me. And I still wouldn't cut that tree down to improve my solar yield. In other suburban areas, such as the sprawling urban wastelands of Sydney and Melbourne, every large tree should be considered sacred. They are the last shreds of the ecosystems that used to cover the whole area and are tiny little islands of life in a concrete and bitumen wasteland. On top of that, I would rather have that tree for the shade that it casts on the house, which makes the place more pleasant on hot summer days. I'd hate to have bare brick walls (and the parts of the roof not covered in panels) facing the NW sun. I shudder every time I see those horrendous 2 storey McMansions with no eaves and massive walls facing W and N (or worse, massive windows facing W and N!).

I have spent >10 years cursing the massive eucalypt that shades my array in the afternoon, but it would be a seriously f**ked up world where tress get cut down to increase yield on a solar array. No?

Clutch alignment tool used when assembling the clutch onto the flywheel?

11.5 years ago. OP hasn't been seen in 4. Good luck with the thread necro.

You took it apart and put it back together. So you have not put something back together properly. ie, broken or cracked one of the hoses, left a small hose off a nipple, broken and electrical plug, etc etc.

Why do you need to know these things if you're never going to do a burnout video?

Surely Brembo caliper pistons are available at every brake workshop in the (civilised) world?

That's totally safe. If the piston is down the bore a bit and the head is set up very close to where it should be for TDC, then there's no chance of hitting anything further down the row of cylinders. You can eyeball the protrusion of the valves and the height of their pistons before you drop the head on, and you should be able to feel them make contact if you have managed to get it wrong, long before you try to bolt it down. You just have to remember that you wound the engine backwards before putting the head on, so that when you try to put the chain on, you know that you have to wind it forwards. The TDC marks on the pulley can help, even though it won't be fully fitted up before you've got the timing cover on. Just fit it temporarily and make yourself a pointer that will help you mark TDC. If the head is fully assembled and off the engine, then you can just turn either cam by hand to put it wherever you want. No need to back off cam bearings, and in fact, that wouldn't make it any easier anyway.

OK, so, I downloaded the R32 GTR manual that's up on NicoClub's site. On the 3rd page of wiring diagrams (the last pages of the PDF), which I show here zoomed out for identification purposes Right in the middle is the reverse lamps and the reverse switch (for MT vehicles)) is shown right there, just above it. I've zoomed it in and circled the area of interest, here The wire that runs along the bottom of the reverse light is earth. If you follow it to the left across the pages of the pdf you will find it ends at the -ve symbol. On the way, it passes both the vehicle speed sensor and and the neutral switch too (as you scan along the diagram). I don't know if this means that there is a buss wire or if it the body earth, but it doesn't matter. This will become relevant later, when I describe probing. It shows the wire colours, but sadly, this pdf is too low a resolution to be able to decipher them. I have at least 2x pdfs at home, plus the paper copy that I photocopied myself from a manual I borrrowed from Nissan Australia last century. I'm sure that at least one of the pdfs I have (and my photocopy) have legible wire numbers everywhere. So what I'm telling you is, find a pdf upload that has better quality (if the one you already have isn't good enough), and have a look at that section. The wire colours are shown each side of the switch. But, there are still things you can do even without a legible drawing. You can use manual methods to probe the wires. Start with a meter connected to the appropriate side of the reverse lamp wiring in the boot (the side that goes back to the switch, not the earth side that I described above) and probe around the gearbox loom under the car until you find continuity. That should be one of the wires. Then, the other wire is known to go to IGN relay 2, shown on the next page of the pdf, with the interesting parts circled n the below image. That wire code circled is the lower wire of the pair that comes in from the left, which is the same wire that leaves the previous page on the right, having come through the reverse switch. You go find IGN relay 2 and you can identify the wire coming out the relay that delivers 12v to these circuits, and probe looking for continuity to wires in the gearbox loom. As a further plus, the neutral switch should be 2 of the other wires in the gearbox loom. One of them will be earth and the other one will go back to the appropriate terminal on the ECU, which I think is 44, but you should double check with the ECU pinout.

If your sparky can't fix that with a depinning tool, a spray can of CO contact cleaner, a toothbrush, and at worst a handful of replacement crimp terminals, then sack him and find someone who actually knows what they are doing.

And you ultimately have to ask.....what difference would it make. It's not as if there's a single thing special about the Nismo dash other than the logo and the calibration. So a fake one offers exactly the same as the real one. I'm off to buy an MCM purity T-shirt.

Not grubbier. But they all smoke like f**kwits and the cars are not considered "special" by as many people there as here, so they get treated like your typical Aussie bogan's Sigma station wagon. 2 minute noodle juice and ball sweat deeply ingrained into the seats then seared in with dropped cigarettes. So just use a grey velour. There's nothing old school about the Nissan fabric except the pattern. There's plenty of seat velour available with equally vague patterns on them.

The fact that the car drives better on the GKTechs is enough or me. Having gone through the teething/learning stage, I'm never going back. Poly bushes have cost me much more sanity over the years than the last couple of years of experimenting with different swivelling arms has.

You can just drill the different holes into factory mounts. There's a thread on this site with the required dimensions. I haven't done it yet, because it's not really required with the GKTech arms, as it is largely about improving the arc that the arms swing through and the GKTechs banish that issue. And Duncan is correct. When you add caster you make the situation for the upper bushes worse. So you can only add a very little amount of caster over stock without causing binding. You can actually feel it if you swing the suspension by hand (with spring & damper unit removed, so you can swing it by hand). The realigned arm inner bolt holes in the Nismo bracket design alleviate that a bit and allow a little more caster. But the only real solution is the articulated arm. The GKTech arm is based on the Group A design (I think that was the Gibson cars, not the Jap Group A). The UAS arms are a reasonable alternative idea, but my experience with them is that they get thrashed in a worse way even that other arms. It's sad, because they are otherwise a good idea.

Well, neither of those are any good because they are not adjustable length. It's almost essential to be able to set the length on the droplinks to prevent the bar or the links fouling on other stuff when you have adjustable bars where you move from hole to hole to change the bar. I have (or perhaps, had) these on the rear https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC109&sq=30367 Balls at both ends. I suspect that they might have been changed out last time my bro-in-law had the car up on the hoist because I think I'd managed to damage one (through stupidity). It's a fine detail either way. He might not have put the same ones back on. I think I have these on these on the front. https://au.gktech.com/s13-180sx-s14-s15-front-swaybar-end-links I don't think it is possible to do something similar to the Whiteline rears on the front. What you need to use depends on the orientation of the holes in the bars. Not all the aftermarket bars have the same orientation as the stockers.

Well, neither of those are any good because they are not adjustable length. It's almost essential to be able to set the length on the droplinks to prevent the bar or the links fouling on other stuff when you have adjustable bars where you move from hole to hole to change the bar. I have (or perhaps, had) these on the rear https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC109&sq=30367 Balls at both ends. I suspect that they might have been changed out last time my bro-in-law had the car up on the hoist because I think I'd managed to damage one (through stupidity). It's a fine detail either way. He might not have put the same ones back on. I think I have these on these on the front. https://au.gktech.com/s13-180sx-s14-s15-front-swaybar-end-links I don't think it is possible to do something similar to the Whiteline rears on the front. What you need to use depends on the orientation of the holes in the bars. Not all the aftermarket bars have the same orientation as the stockers.

Yeah right! As if. But besides, surely this would be an opportunity to use a vastly better material than the not-very-good material that was stock? Even more yeah right, as if! Every R32 was imported with at least 1 cigarette burn in the seats. Mine had 2 and it was only in Japan for 6 years. Imagine what a car that has been in Japan for nearly 30 years will look (and smell!) like. Not for me.

Keep in mind that with R32 upper arms, bushes of any sort are AIDS. Anal AIDS. Festering, dripping anal AIDS. With extra herpes. You do not want them. Bearings are more than 9000% better. There's nothing wrong with the bearings that are in the ends of any of the adjustable length arms (the ones with sliding centre sections). What is wrong is that the design of the suspension puts stupidly large loads into those bearings as the arm swings up and down, because of the twist that occurs. This is why the OEM arms have the big hydro-squishy bushes in them, and why poly bushes cop a hiding when retrofitted. If the bearings are multi-element (like ball bearings or roller bearings), they don't love the abuse. That's probably 90+% of all adjustable arm options. The big sphericals in the GK-Tech arms would probably take the abuse, but they don't need to, because the flexible design takes that load out of them.

I'll have to download a copy of it when I am at the hotel tonight. Wouldn't be a good idea to do it on the borrowed 4G connection I'm using at site.

This is the Type M material. I'm not sure about the other dark grey/charcoal material that doesn't appear to have the same pattern in the centre sections. The brown berber material on yours is definitely the pov pack material. The seats aren't appreciably different, just different trim. I wouldn't expect that you'd have a lot of luck finding good stuff. There's not very many of them in wreckers any more. My original 1993 seats are showing their age (moreso the fronts than the backs that never get used!), and they are likely some of the best ones still out in the wild. You might have to consider paying for retrimming.

The GK-Tech guys will tell you that the teflon lined joints are manna from heaven, and they will tell you not to put any grease on them. But my experience with grease has been much much better than my experience without grease. See this thread which was a general thread about the arms and sort of became my diary thread. I have since made some PVC sheet nappies to go around them to keep the water and dirt away and this seems to have been a very worthwhile effort. The entire upper arms is wrapped up in plastic. I'd take some photos, but they're 2000km away.

Not that there's any difference. It's all the same parts up the top. I had many sets of these in my car over a 15 year period. They flog out, especially at the front. Not really suitable for long term use on the road either. I had the first available type (from Whiteline) at the turn of the century. My experience, and that of everyone else with them led to Whiteline redesigning with a solid metal outer insert to reduce the amount of urethane, because the thick section of the original design collapsed in only a few thousand kms. But even the new design and all the copies (ie Superpro) do exactly the same thing. I was probably the first person to put grease nipples on them, before they even came in the kits - that's how beige their performance was.