GTSBoy

No. Tail light globes are not 21W. You put 21W in burning ALL THE TIME (when the lights are on) and you will overheat the housing.

21W is brake light, no? Tail lights are meant to be lower?

Fairy 'nuff.

These will be at least 10k more than the 370 (when they were new out, not now that the price has fallen), because twin turbo. There is some danger that they will try to gouge by creeping up under the Supra's price point (ie, make it >$80k) to make it look like good value by comparison, even if they could reasonably sell them in the 70s. Arguably, they could make more money if they look like a bargain, simply by selling (and servicing) more of them. But.....weird decisions get made. The Yaris GR is debuting at $40k and will be $50k minimum (for the base model - the hot model will be >$10k more than that!). The Yaris might even be a faster car than the 400Z, but the 400 is still going to want to position itself upmarket from a scungy little hatchback. So, easily >$10k more. That makes it at least 70, possibly 75.

Wrong globes?

i think the rear will look baller in the right colour. A v. dark red or black would be ace. Black would also camouflage the size of the front grille for those that are unhappy with it. I personally think that big square and simple (like it is) is much better than most other manufacturer's efforts lately (I'm looking at you, Lexus). It looks like the guys who were responsible for the aborted Silvia reboot were allowed to take out some of their frustrations on it. Very Z, plus very taut/tight stretches on it.

Why so? It was my understanding that pretty much all the main benefit from ethanol (in terms of knock resistance and hence ability to add boost or timing) is in by the time you up to ~40-45% ethanol. Everything thereafter being much smaller benefits.

Kudos, JustJap, Amayama, Partsouq, Nissan Australia, Nissan USA

eBay

Neo ECUs have a weird VQ map tuning method that significantly differs from the earlier ECUs. Once you push them past "boosted stock" it starts becoming harder to defeat the various protections/annoyances, and rescale stuff. I put one into my ECU and I went through the effort of rescaling the load and rpm scales to expand them, all years before it stopped being necessary to rescale (because of changes that Matt made to how Nistune handles the K factor), and I think I have a handle on all the protections and stuff. But I'm only running 12 psi on stock turbo. If I ever get around to wasting money on a bigger turbo, injectors etc I'll suck it and see and it will probably be fine. But the experience of many is that it becomes harder and harder to get things right.

Did you know that Adaptronic was bought by Haltech recently, and despite promises to the contrary, it seems like there is less support than there used to be. The guy who started and was Adaptronic works for Haltech now as one of their main ECU designers/product dev guys. His focus must have been moved onto Haltech stuff. Or at least it appears that way. I would use Nistune (on a Neo) unless you're looking to run quite a bit of boost or power. AFM remains easy with Nistune - just put an R356 card AFM into the intercooler cold side pipe. But there are other tuning unpleasantnesses on Neo ECUs that can make life a bit hard when you push things a bit harder. Otherwise in Oz, yes, Link or Haltech. Haltech if you're into the cool-aid. Link otherwise.

Cut and shut tailshaft. Same as for every such swap.

You got $5k?

Inspection for wear, which exhibits as excessive (really, any) play. I have not put a lot of lube onto my radius rod joints over the years. As I said, this is about the best, cleanest location on the car, so they don't get full of shit there. I keep other sphericals on my car aggressively lubed. Dust boots packed full of moly grease.

The joy is in getting the problem identified, because you cannot do it yourself unless you have drug money. All CUs are on the same Consult bus. Access to the others is not mediated by the ECU. I already told you - there is nothing out there. You need a workshop grade scan tool. This is a large handheld device that comes in a blow-mould case with a bunch of different cables that allows you to hook it up to diag ports on Nissans, Hondas, Toyos, BMWs......get the theme here? Or, you need an actual Nissan Consult tool. Same thing, just limited to Nissan only and more guaranteed to have the correct protocols and lookups for every Nissan. There is only one diag port on your car. The Consult port.

Spherical joints need to be regularly inspected, cleaned, lubed. Dust boots help with keeping road grime off to a certain extent, but they make it a lot harder to clean and relube. It is claimed that the teflon lined ones do not need lubrication. That has not been my experience so far. The front end of front radius rods is about the cleanest possible place on the car's suspension, so sphericals tend to last a long time there. I have unprotected sphericals on the front of my Tein radius rods and they've been good for many years. Top quality joints on the Teins. Most important aspect of installing these is to make sure that the ball is centered when the rod/arm/joint is at resting position. If they are over towards one end then the joint can run out of travel before the arm/rod does and it will cause damage. Dust boost also make this very difficult to check, especially if they are full of grease.

Shall we assume that you're in Australia?

Put it back the way that it was and see what happens. If it doesn't come good, you have damaged/dislodged something else.

You have no options. Sills and inner rails. Sills using suitable adapters to grab the seam and push up on the hard points only. Inners with lumps of wood to spread the load. If it were being done in a workshop it would be done on a 2 post hoist supported at the sills. The sills are in fact strong enough, especially at the rear where there is less weight, particularly while the subframe is actually out. But you have to use adapters. Look at the top of your scissor jack. That is what you need.

'sif there's any difference!

Jeesus. If you can't make nearly 300HP with a 2 litre 24 valve modern engine like a 20Neo then you should set fire to it. They used to make nearly that much from 2 valve 4 cylinder engines with dirty dribbly Webers on them. You won't need any RB25 parts for this. Just weld up the cams and regrind to 300° total duration and 11mm of lift, relieve the cam bores and do something to stop the shims from jumping out. Port the bejeezus out of it and get the compression up to 11:1. Job done.

That sounds right, but I'm sure it is very clearly described in the tuning guide.

My R32 has perfect sills. Scissor jack used correctly will not damage the sills. Even with a gap. I wouldn't use a trolley jack on the sills without a correctly fitting adapter, and pump it up slowly. But that's just common sense regardless of whether there are real or perceived problems with the structure.

No. Take it to a mechanic who has a PROPER scan tool. Made by Snap-On, or any of the other $10000+ workshop grade scan tools that will connect to and read from EVERY make and model (with the appropriate licenses, of course). Consultz and Nissdatascan etc are NOT proper scan tools. They are a valiant effort by talented amateurs.

Is that really relevant? That blog post is about the outer sills, not the rails closer to the trans tunnel. I think the R33 and R34 rails get equally damaged as R32 because people do the same stupid shit, picking them up with forklifts, putting jacks and jack stands under the rails (when they REALLY shouldn't), bashing them into speed bumps and driveway exits, etc etc.