GTSBoy

No. I would presume not. I cannot see why there would be 2 different outputs based on what the input type was. I would presume that the 2P output is used by some clients in the car, and the 8P would be used by other clients (think of the various CUs in the car, ECU, TCU, ABS, HICAS that want to know a speed signal). The only input is pin 19 and the input needs to come to pin 19 from whichever speed sender is in the car. Look at the whole wiring diagram to see where the dash's pins 30 & 31 go. But the answer won't be there. That's just for interest. Just wire up the gearbox speed sender to the dash input 19 in the same was as it was from the diff. There is no power involved. The +/-1V signal is GENERATED by the inductive sensor.

No, I cannot advise model numbers and power ratings. Well, yes I can. I don't know, remember or care if I have Osram or Phillips or some other option in there. I just know that they are one of those or one of the few other good ones. And the ONLY sensible wattage rating is the original 55W. And yes. The relays are vital. They save your headlight switch from carrying the high current and you can get up to an extra volt or so to the back of the globes. Power is related to V squared.

Gearbox sender is 2 wires to cluster. It is a +/- 1V AC sawtooth type signal. Should not be greatly different to that from the diff, except for pulse count per speed. The ECU has nothing to do with it. The ECU and every other CU is a client of the speed signal generated in the cluster by the speedo head. That is a 0-5V PWM signal. All this is in the R34 manual.

The reason to not try to upgrade the brains is that the hardware is a million years old and failing. Who wants to have to find alternative pumps, solenoids, and all the other shit? Just dump the electronic crap, retro in known good analogue equipment and know that you're not overcapitalising on a 30 year old dirty Datsun.

Morimoto HID retro into original projector housings makes a lot of sense. Back in the day, when almost no cars had HIDs, anyone who foolishly put HIDs into original housings (and even original projectors, as would be obvious given that there were no replacement projector options anyway) stood out like dogs' balls. Nowadays, nearly every new car >$25k has HIDs and many many are poorly adjusted and flash all sorts of shit light at people and anyone with a retro is not going to stand out. And, with an R32 with projectors, you can point to the fact that you still have projectors and say to the cop, "well, these things did have halogen projectors from the factory you know, so just because you can see projector lenses here doesn't mean I've jammed HIDs into it....." and hope that they buy it, should you ever actually get hauled over. When I can get my shit together, this is what I will be doing. In the meantime, all I have is the best white halogen bulbs you can buy, relays connected directly behind the globes and a fat power feed direct from main power to those relays to maximise the volts and watts. It's fine. It could be better, but it's fine. The high beams have more than sufficient reach and low beams simply don't really matter.

Yuh, but even Taiwanese companies are manufacturing on the mainland these days. That's how bad the global manufacturing situation has become! It was just speculation, in case they were being made in the fake China, instead of the real China.

I saw these listed on eBay for $2k the other day and just about died of shock (at the size of the price). I tried to find them on Alibaba to see if they were available for half that....but failed. $1300 is only a little bit more palatable. They will want to be bloody good! I too echo the demand for output shots.

Yeah, but you're arguing that it could be better. As in could be made better. it wasn't made good to start with and it has only gotten worse. The only active LSDs that have been of any value are in the last 10 years or so, and they only turn up on very expensive cars and they rely on the massive increase in computer power to get the job done. The shitty 3-bit half analogue bullshit used in the early Japanese versions was not up to the task. Same with 4ws. Only comes on expensive cars (Porsches, various supercars, etc), for the same reasons. And, in 10 years when all those cars have a few miles on them and it starts malfunctioning, it will be a f**king nightmare for the owners Normal cars don't need that shit. More to the point, people who want to flog a Skyline (ie, not a normal car, because we're all modding the f**k out of them to make them "track") around want something hard edged and reliable/repeatable. And the whole argument will go away soon because when all cars are electric then your get per wheel torque vectoring for free anyway.

Why would you choose US sources of info when the number of R34s in all of the US has to be lower than the number of R34s just in my state, and we have <1.5million people here? There are more R34s here than Porsches ferfuxsake!

Aw c'mon! Really? I even told you where to look

It's not really limp mode. It's just the ECU chucking the sads. they don't cope. You have to go into the DTC stuff and switch off the offending codes. The doco should tell you how. I have a Neo in an R32. No TCS, no ABS. I had to fix all that stuff. It also pays to get the Nistune board programmed as a Stagea in the first place, because they don't have TCS.

Surely you don't have to join to read?

But for mild engines it's not as much trouble. So it depends how hard you want to lean on it too.

More than likely. Unless colour is an issue after all.

Yuh, but that's the point. They sucked when new and they only got suckier as they aged and wore and stopped working even as well they originally did (which was not that well). Aussies have been living with this shit for >20 years. We have no rose-tinted glasses when it comes to this sort of piss poor engineering.

When I say "press out" I don't mean "break out". On the R32 these are all tabbed in with clips that can go in and out as many times as you like.

Like all Nissan electronic control ideas of the era, the technology wasn't as good as the idea, and after 25 years, they don't work properly (as in, not even as well as they worked when they were new). Even in the EVOs, which at about EVO9 era (ie much later than GTRs) had something very similar, the active diff is a piece of shit that everone who drives them hard wants to rip out and replace with the simple mech diff out of an RS. They offer very changeable performance and you can't trust them to always give you the drive you need. HICAS sucks. The active diffs suck. Viscous diffs suck. Ceramic turbos suck. There is a lot of suck to be removed from these cars.

You talking about the bit I circled? $1 gives you 5 that the holes are not "cut out". They would be "press out". And the chances that they are different colours between a V spec and and normal GTR and even a 2WD car is more a case of $5 gets you 1. All the same would be my first response.

Probably. They really pack the sulks in hard if not given everything they want. Of course, there could be heaps of other problems. Dose's suggestion above is really sensible, because it cuts through a whole pile of shit you have to wade through if trying to get a stock ECU'd transplant working in a foreign car. There are so many things that can trip you up.

I wouldn't even bother asking that question until you work out whether you need to spend another $5k on engineering before you'd even be allowed to do it. I'm in SA. We have it much better than the Nazi state that you live in. But even here it is strictly illegal to just throw a turbo onto a car. You must get approval from Regency (our Vicroads) before you start, and they will demand engineering where it is needed, and I'm pretty sure that turboing a vehicle that never had a turbo variant will require engineering.

Did it come from a GT-T? Had traction control and ABS originally? Is the ECU Nistuned? If you answered yes to either of the 1st 2 questions and no to the latter, then you're f**ked. The stock ECU will pack a sulk if you don't have the traction control CU and the ABS CU all happily talking to it. If you have Nistune, you can cancel that shit out and make it work. Has it been working before and is this a new problem, or has it never worked?

You do not want that turbo. It appears to be all sorts of silly. Funky exhaust inlet flange, possibly crazily small compressor. What you want is a VL Turbo type turbo. Something with a T3 inlet, sensibly arranged to sit on a stock VL turbo manifold with the inlets and outlets facing in the right directions. An RB25 or VG30 turbo would also be appropriate.

What do you know about "modifications to the intake system" in Victoria? The short version is that turbo conversions are almost impossible. Certainly not without full engineering. You should look at the Vicroads site to find out what the rules are.

Turbo + fuel system + ECU + intercooler + pipework + exhaust manifold + oil&water plumbing to/from turbo + exhaust + dump pipe + installation work for oil supply and drain, etc. + tuning. The list really should include upgraded brakes. Oh, and you're in Victoria. So what you are proposing is not road legal. You will need to pay for engineering.

Or....have you looked at the online catalogues of companies that make them and list them? I can think of at least 2, right off my head, being Bosch and Tridon. Hell, there are dozens of listing on eBay for wipers for all the Skylines. They usually tell you what length the blades are. top listing on eBay says 18". I have seen eBay listing for R34 saying both are 18", which is a little hard to believe when R32 are 20" on RHS and 18" on LHS.