GTSBoy

Safety network should be dedicated, duplicated, disparate physical route. If it's not that, it was never good enough, even with maintenance.

Just leaving this here in anticipation of good outcome.

Thread closed.

Just wait until R31s catch the contagion.

They need to get a grip. R32 GTRs got as low as AU$8-10K at one point here.

Structured text and other high level PLC programing languages are not allowable in Functional Safety. They are very difficult to audit. My PLC stuff is almost exclusively oriented towards Burner Management Systems which are a particularly pernicious form of Safety Instrumented System, when implemented in an SPLC. Even the part of the code written to work in the non-safety logic part of the PLC, like with a Siemens S7-1500 series, still needs to be treated as if it was safety code, with access restrictions, code fingreprints and the like. And Allen Bradley can go EABODs. They ae full of shit. They have this whole lie going on where they say if you use a ControlLogix controller and its IO, and then just duplicate the IOs (ie, run in series or parallel depending on type, to try to make it "fail safe") and "use these programming styles and place these restrictions on what you do" that you can achieve SIL2. What a load of crap. They just get away with it because no-one in the US seems to understand the first thing about Functional Safety and carries on as if all they have to do is buy only SIL2 rated equipment and hey presto, it's a SIL2 system. Idiots. /rant

Unless things that you want to do include reference to time. Simple Boolean logic is only good for digital inputs or analogues that have been thresholded into digitals. But unless you also have a timer function available (which would more ideally be located inside the program, rather than being forced to implement a timer outside the ECU and bring it in as a seperate digital for every time delay you want to implement), then you can't do some of the things that you might want to do. My PLC ladder logics are obviously littered with program blocks, because that's easier than building it all in ladder gates, but the most frequent of those program blocks is a simple timer, because you actually can't otherwise do that in ladder at all.

Log voltage. I'm suspecting the alternator. Or even maybe a bad earth somewhere. ie, seeing as it is rev dependent, I am thinking it is alternator dependent.

No. All these dirty old Datsuns are shitboxes. Including the GTR.

She swallowed the spider to catch the fly.

There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.

The smart thing is to actually locate the pump at the right point down the hanger, so that the strainer can stay sticking out at a right angle, but near the bottom. This is the perpetual hassle with retrofitting any different pump to the factory hanger. Some just go where you need it to, some need fiddling and faffing, and modifying of stuff.

I don't know. The main problem is that link is clearly at FB marketplace, and I have never willingly clicked a link that will take me to any Meta owned website. Even if it wasn't clear, I would hover over it to find out before clicking on it anyway, same as I do for all links everywhere. Just good internet hygiene + refusal to participate in the lizard man's empire. But, you will need to deal with the inevitable HICAS light that will come up if you stop the steering angle sensor from working. On an R32, this is as simple as unplugging the smaller of the two loom plugs in the back of the HICAS CU. I don't know if this works on later HICASs.

Because the drive dog for the steeering angle sensor is present on wheels that came in HICAS cars and not present on wheels that came on non-HICAS cars. Not that I would let that bother me, because HICAS is trash and any excuse to get rid of it is a good excuse.

I might have to say it.

Hmm. You're probably best off working out what the lobe centreline or even the LSA is for the stock cams, with VCT OFF. That's bound to be out there somewhere. Then, work on the assumption that the Kelford centreline is probably the same, and wouldn't be more than a couple of degrees away, if it is different at all. I'm very surprised that you needed to adjust the exhaust cam by 5° to get it on spec. That screams there's another problem somewhere. Anything from the belt being 1 tooth off (how many degrees is one tooth worth?) to simple user/measurement error on the degree wheel. I say this because Kelford, like most quality cam manufacturers these days, does a pretty good job of actually making the cams to spec, not relying on patching it up afterwards like we had to do back in the 80s.

Only RB26 are low from factory. And even then the ECU actually want high impedance, because it's essentially the same ECU as the RB20 anyway, and thus they have a f**king resistor pack!

It's aftermarket. It also reeks of Honda Civic tryhard from 2003. But if you want one....then you want one.

It's OK. When it dies, you just put a manual in.

That's called a shopping trolley handle, or an ironing board.

As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.

I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.

As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.

Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.

No. No it can't. It will absolutely end badly. There's no need for it, so there's no need to create the risk. Mitigating a risk that didn't need to be there in the first place is even dumber than mitigating a risk that could be engineered out in the first place. And the risk has already been engineered out.