GTSBoy

The pedal and pedal box (everything inside the car) will be the same for all manual R32s. There might be a caveat for the GTR pedal in that the rod that pokes through the firewall is supposed to connect to the input side of a vacuum booster, not direct into the clutch master cylinder. Therefore, your safest bet is a clutch pedal from a GTSt. Good luck finding on these days though. All the manual conversions were done 20 years ago.

I think he meant Haltech meant that the Haltech PDM doesn't like driving loads with PWM. Not that the pumps don't like it. Think about the heatsinks that we strap onto SSRs for just handling a single PWM load. Then picture how much heatsinking is visible on a Haltech ECU or PDM. None, right? So it's no surprise that they don't want to run PWM loads directly.

I think the PDM outputs (the ones that can actually output big power) are not intended to be driven like that. They're either on or off, switched only at a low rate. To do PWM you need to use an ECU output that is PWM friendly (ie, able to be run at high frequency) and drive a separate SSR, instead of trying to thrash the (presumably) SSRs in the PDM.

Not in Australia.

It's not that expensive for what it does. It is a programmable thingo that allows you to do a wide range to tasks. It is expensive compared to just buying the bits needed to add an SSR into the fuel pump control. And, given that you have an ECU that should be capable of doing teh actual control, all you really need is an SSR (and heatsink), and some wiring anyway.

Just take the headlight housing out.

Should run up to about 6 or so at high revs. But the stock oil pressure gauge is a piece of shit and can't be trusted, so make few to no decisions based on what you see it do.

Yes. On the inner end of the LCA, where the bush and mounting bolt go through. This is where the car carries the weight transfer between the suspension and the body already. Best place.

That is an H1 headlight globe. Not a parker. 55W, quartz halogen.

Spokey doke.

That's not a parking light globe. That is a main headlight globe. You've touched it (the quartz envelope) with your fingers and now it's f**ked, so you have to buy replacement for that too.

Don't do this unless it never gets hot where you are.

See if you can power it up on the bench.

Yuh, which is why I said it is "flywheel minus drivetrain losses", which is essentially exactly what it is. Presuming you might lose up to 10% (for real) in the drivetrain, you get somewhat closer to flywheel power with a hub dyno than what you measure on roller when you are losing that same drivetrain loss PLUS the somewhat larger tyre-roller loss. Inertia can be discounted when measuring steady state, which remains an option with either type (unless stupid US inertia roller type, which should never have existed).

With the obvious caveat that hub dynos are not telling you rw power. They are telling you flywheel power minus drivetrain losses. The largest losses in power readings at the wheel are, of course, at the tyre-roller interface.

I think it uses the one on the diff snout.

Hook the car up to a Consult handset (or good general purpose code reader handset) and interrogate the TCU and ECU properly.

Yeah, you could do it. Better off putting the money into super though.

From the very first inception of heat pump/phase change refrigeration A/C installed in cars, like......most of the way back into last century..... switching the compressor on and off was the way it was done. It's only in the last 20 years or so that they have had variable output compressors.

The dampers with the higher rates would have to be coupled to springs with higher rates. Otherwise you just get massively overdamped suspension, which is no damn good either. When I was a kid one of my coworkers had a 116 Alfetta GTV. He had Koni Ds in it wound to max. The Konis only adjust rebound. It had standard torsion bars. As he drove it would absorb bumps and get lower and lower and lower until it was essentially as compressed as it could be because the dampers were too much for the poor little bars to push back up against. Was funny as f**k to watch happen - no damn good to drive. I had the same dampers on mine, with stock bars, and only adjusted about 25%. They were great. Would compress and rebound exactly as you'd expect.

Welcome to the olden days.

Was this built in 2010?

I would have thought so.

There is none when used in the radius rods. I am a strong advocate of sphericals in that location.

They're all the same. The GK-Tech one might be ever so slightly more stiff/rigid than he others because they provide the mounts for the arms on the end of that centre bar rather than just bolt on brackets. But the bolt on brackets versions are just emulating the way the non-HICAS subframes do it anyway. The toe control arms are just mounted in basically the same way on the Nissan version.