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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    You do not want that turbo. It appears to be all sorts of silly. Funky exhaust inlet flange, possibly crazily small compressor. What you want is a VL Turbo type turbo. Something with a T3 inlet, sensibly arranged to sit on a stock VL turbo manifold with the inlets and outlets facing in the right directions. An RB25 or VG30 turbo would also be appropriate.
  2. GTSBoy
    What do you know about "modifications to the intake system" in Victoria? The short version is that turbo conversions are almost impossible. Certainly not without full engineering. You should look at the Vicroads site to find out what the rules are.
  3. GTSBoy
    Turbo + fuel system + ECU + intercooler + pipework + exhaust manifold + oil&water plumbing to/from turbo + exhaust + dump pipe + installation work for oil supply and drain, etc. + tuning. The list really should include upgraded brakes. Oh, and you're in Victoria. So what you are proposing is not road legal. You will need to pay for engineering.
  4. GTSBoy
    Or....have you looked at the online catalogues of companies that make them and list them? I can think of at least 2, right off my head, being Bosch and Tridon. Hell, there are dozens of listing on eBay for wipers for all the Skylines. They usually tell you what length the blades are. top listing on eBay says 18". I have seen eBay listing for R34 saying both are 18", which is a little hard to believe when R32 are 20" on RHS and 18" on LHS.
  5. GTSBoy
    Should really go talk to a gearbox&diff specialist who might have knowledge of the internals of these active diffs to find out what they think it would take to jam one of the available mech centres in. When you get right down to it, they are still an R200 case and otherwise very similar. Maybe it's just the side bearings spacing or something that makes it hard, and with a little effort or shim/spacer swappsies or use of a centre intended for a Toyota.something else or any of a bunch of hopefully not difficult things, make something work. Ideally you'd want to use the original stubs and half shafts, but if you had to swap to something else, say the Nismo ones that come with Nismo centres, that would surely have to be palatable enough to the wealthy GTR owner with a bung active diff.
  6. GTSBoy
    Yeah. Nah. There is no such thing as an R32 with only 96 kkms. They all had at least that much 15 years ago.
  7. GTSBoy
    Oooh. That's a shame. Stupid f**king idea.
  8. GTSBoy
    Yeah, but still. GTRs only have 2 sorts of diffs. The normal one is mechanical 2-way. No reason to talk about that any more. The other is NOT a VLSD. It is the active diff. The V-spec diff. You are right, there are no mech centres to replace those, but there's also not very many of them out there, so why would anyone bother putting the effort into developing product?
  9. GTSBoy
    What's a growler kit?
  10. GTSBoy
    And that's the point. As I said, there are plenty of mech LSD centres to go into VLSD housings.
  11. GTSBoy
    I doubt that you could weld it. It's got hydraulic actuated clutches inside it and other shenanigans. Plugging up the hole where you pulled a hydraulic line out of it is the least of your worries! And it is not altessa either. It's ATTESA. And what you have is not ATTESA. It is just active diff bullshit. ATTESA is 4WD. Which you don't have.
  12. GTSBoy
    No. Not right. There is little difference between VLSD and mech LSD (and in fact, the open diffs in NA cars etc) when it comes to the housing. There are literally dozens of mech LSD options for VLSD diffs. All of the usual suspects (Cusco, KAAZ, Nismo, etc etc, and many more) have mech diff replacements for VLSD and open R200 centres. The only mech diff centres on any R chassis cars were the GTR 2-way mechanicals. And I suppose the helical diffs on some R34s can be consider mechanical too, just not in the same way. That's why they are rare and expensive. What there is not, is something to easily put a mech centre into one of the ACTIVE diffs from the M-specs and V-spec GTRs. Because they make it difficult, and there was only a small number of them, and there are other diffs you can grab to put in their place.
  13. GTSBoy
    FFS!
  14. GTSBoy
    A 235 would be a good size if there was an appropriate profile to give the right diameter, but there really isn't. If you're willing to put up with a change in diameter, you could do that. 245 is a little too wide for an 8" rim. Somewhat baggy, especially on a 16, where you end with a lot of sidewall height bagging out.
  15. GTSBoy
    Yup. A little bit variable, but up at the healthy end of the scale.
  16. GTSBoy
    That's got nothing to do with ATTESA. It is not a GTR diff. That diff does have some weird features though. It has a normal RWD car's pinion/input flange. That takes a uni joint, not the CV style join on the back end of a GTR diff. If has 6 bolt axle flanges. But full circle ones. Weird. 6 bolts are GTR and/or some other cars like Z32 turbos. It appears to be an "active" diff which was originally for some of the special model GTRs but was also put into some RWD R33s and is a piece of shit. That's what the external pipework is about. There are hundreds of threads on here about these things. You should do some research. But the short answer is no, you cannot do anything with that diff. It is an orphan. The only thing you can do is replace the whole thing (including the case) with your diff of choice. Although, you will likely also need axles.
  17. GTSBoy
    Optimistic. 161kW. 1280kg. 125.7 kW/t. I would suggest a likely no. They've never been P plate legal anywhere where that is a thing. Also, the only ones that I have seen for sale in the last few years have been beaten to shit. So don't let the dream car romance lead you into buying something that will break your heart. You will need ~$25k to get something worth having.
  18. GTSBoy
    Yeah, well, not really an apples and apples comparison. The Toyota ECU should wind in a lot more advance on the 98, making it a lot more efficient. So, couple with the increased fuel density of 98 (over normal 91) and then the decreased density and energy content both of E10 (compared to normal 91) and it's no surprise you can do 25% better on 98. Do it again with 91 and E10, the gap will be a lot closer. I did it with a Toyota Echo hire car in FNQ about 20 years ago (so, same basic ECU tech as the 2002 'Rolla). Shell or BP 91 got nearly 10% better economy than the supermarket brand 91 (which was imported from SE Asia at the time and was probably E10 and was shit compared to Aussie refined juice).
  19. GTSBoy
    The only pipe that can get sucked shut is the turbo inlet elbow.....as it is the only one under suction when hauling. The pipes after the turbo are all.....wait for it....under positive pressure.
  20. GTSBoy
    Fixed
  21. GTSBoy
    Nissan aren't the only ones to use them.
  22. GTSBoy
    Compressor bypass valves (to give them their correct name) are mostly intended to allow air to go around the compressor in the forward direction, whilst under vacuum, to reduce (frictional pressure) losses and increase the breathing ability of the engine and hence gain boost a tiny bit earlier.
  23. GTSBoy
    No, just lazy. Exhausts aren't rocket surgery anyway. Anyone who can weld can knock one up in an afternoon.
  24. GTSBoy
    No. Go to trusted local exhaust shop and just get it made using good quality mufflers. The idea of a "kit" exhaust is so USA, especially for a car (R31) for which there is probably only 1 person per year seeking a new exhaust.
  25. GTSBoy
    OK. Some changes to my list based on your feedback. Indicators and wastegate actuator can drop off the list. Air-con controller is a mystery proposition, so value is low. Still willing to risk it for a low enough price. Driver's seatbelt is the main one I'd be interested in anyway, so the missing passenger's is OK. Better pics of mirror panels, air-con controller, belts & window mech happily accepted.
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