GTSBoy

I don't class Aussie built R31 as being the same car as Jap R31s. I was therefore only talking about Aussie live axle cars. Having said that, when looking at R31s for sale right now, and not expecting to find any, I found this. An intriguing exercise in "Is it worth anything at all, gee I think it might be worth something, it's certainly unique, what would I do with it if I bought it....etc etc etc". https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1987-nissan-skyline-silhouette-manual/SSE-AD-2812285/?Cr=21 The other 2 R31s on carsales are asking <$5k.

Hi, I would like to register my interest in; The front window mirror inside panels (the plastic triangles). The front indicators (provided they look pretty schmick - I don't need them if they've got chips/cracks etc.) The air-con controller (provided it's working) The seat belts (provided they're not frayed on the edges and are otherwise working) The door window mechanism (provided it's working) The wastegate actuator (provided it's the stock RB20 10 psi unit and you're happy to keep it separated from the turbo!) If you come up with a $$ number that you'd like for that lot and an allowance to ship to SA, send me a PM and we can discuss. cheers

Buy HR34. Add some brakes, regardless of whatever else you do. Buy VK56DE, CD009 box. Buy 1.5way LSD, 5 bolt driveshafts. If you can't bring yourself to put such a massive engine in it, then do the same with LS3 and TR6060. Much more compact, much more room for adding turbos later.

US market modification method. Hit it with recipro saw and unscrew the stub!

There seemed to be many failures of them where the originals simply didn't. But the evidence pool is very much anecdotal, and probably fuelled by the usual dickhead methods by which oil pumps die anyway, being a total lack of respect and mechanical sympathy.

Anything that is "to suit" R32 will have fitting to suit the original calipers. If you want banjos, you'd be best off either just getting some made outright like we used to have to do, or contact the vendors who are selling the "to suit" lines and enquire about getting the banjos you need on instead.

Take it to a mechanic.

Yes, and the period when N1 pumps were "not as good" was probably about 10 years ago. Not easy to know when it really was and how long, etc. But if you replace the gears.....who cares?

Yeah, quality work from the OP in identifying what was actually broken. But on close inspection it looks like someone has dropped something on the VCT solenoid's socket and chipped off a large piece.

Buy this. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8MM-HD-WiFi-Endoscope-Inspection-Camera-Waterproof-for-iPhone-PC-iPad-Samsung-AU/163440076341?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item260dc9a635:g:ofMAAOSwsPNcGhBL&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkfOCvCjTOBWK8pwriaolq5l3YoyuRM1%252B5hQF96Q9VN70RMc3%252BYWb9Tsc4TGw41eT3TQyUnv930nBOYpCpeC0DLYi7CxMTZyPioOoOXgQasbGPlG6QtpP4pYAS6Fwp8lyvvZts9%252BMI7tKcAxRtSZg3PJaSRXesma1BQe9Y7Kk0x3lSKjtYvm8qvSbcGe6Le3XGCKqKt5N5%252BpmvMtHRRXcSMV7vH6cH2a1pfxad7lFk9REJ%252Fs9T%252FxkpiEeVzDso%252FxydMWoLVe1u58T95RoHmLBtO7UIuxhfvPW3Iwi0mSO1EhyhN%252BoIO%252FymShnXkKaBlgrverdWmmwCbiAxDdOJF9aVLKX3JZUC%252BRtHPIhIDYo9ycOshD%252B5hpeoZWH6aXXeWU%252Fi2T33k3JYi9Ww5oOdwTKLoigaAHGwopMekvh6MThpmeZVA0yFlG7%252FjqbXqMJtd%252FmENiHbwrQXc1QUAnEZr7dGv6vpcB3sHdkcVM67Xnr%252F%252FH3yBsbLHavof5BBTxjSoagT2C2akfcq8wyteFQCNP%252BE8eM2CNqVwN4mUDoYlN5f2Q1WbTtdXKDtkB7V%252BsuNLiZTPLCpyBR%252BubPJeKl1SsS%252FQLpW7nlSkqYn%252B82yIyrazSiJyR4QI%252BZpMZjKEdD8nPgDFbaKcvPK86w2c9Xtx1G4%252FkI6lHclPYp097es4WMhHReOO4KjHTLfLU8wtmotJTjP7q4pHEWo6lXcmHLGEHVVAyK%252BJ5mdYoG%252Fc6nO7DO48l8qMbgdbmxaWLlzkT78ScXaWWCP9FklM%252B8LYCnKMqZUBg%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A163440076341da5adf177ea64ed6b78adc0d6112fd23%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

Yeah, I think you might need more than just that pinout. The ECU has to be configured to look at that pin. Have you done that? How exactly is the rest of the wiring for the IAT supposed to be? Is the other side just earthed? Or is the other side supposed to be powered? And, did you know that Adaptronic was bought by Haltech? So support should be via Haltech these days.

The gold coating would have been a zinc passification, which is certainly not high temperature capable. The steel itself will be fine. This is what genuine ones look like. Just steel. https://justjap.com/catalog/product/view/id/22810/s/genuine-nissan-turbo-manifold-exhaust-housing-outlet-dump-pipe-nuts-nissan-ca18-sr20-rb20-rb26-vg30/

Yes, but first step is always check the functioning of the sensor and the wiring, before spending hours f**king about with software. Nothing worse than chasing a physical problem from inside the computer! If you can see the same resistance at the ECU as you can at the sensor, then at least the sensor's wires are making it all the way to the ECU. Now the only question is how that sensor is supposed to be supplied with voltage. Can you show us the recommended wiring diagram?

Given that Silos are either at the top or very near the top of the model order, you would expect that they would be worth more than low end models. But put this all into perspective. Once any car is >20 years old and has completely depreciated, the difference in "value" between the top end model and bottom end model of the range gets diluted away to nothing. So where the dealer might have wanted $5k more for a Silo than some other plebeian model in the range, neither of them are even worth $5k now. A Silo might be worth a couple hungy more than an equivalent condition other R31.

An IAT sensor is a variable resistor. You should be able to measure the resistance of the sensor directly at its terminals, and also at the wiring at the ECU end, and they should be more or less the same numbers.

Have you pointed a multimeter at it at all?

Wouldn't have a hope in hell here in SA.

I have GK-Tech front upper arms (on an R32, where these are a big problem), obviously with spherical joints, and Tein front caster rods, with spherical joints, but I have Hardrace rubber bushed rear camber arms and tension rods for exactly the reasons mentioned above.

There is no such thing, other than the original bonnet. If you want a carbon fibre bonnet legal, then you would have to get a consulting automotive engineer to sign off on it. That is a very unlikely thing to happen, as the problem with CF bonnets is their crash behaviour is totally different to the crash behaviour of the original (steel or ally) bonnet, and in fact much much worse in that they are really stiff and also tend to fracture with sharp edges instead of crumple. So, unless you go and do some crash testing I would like to suggest that no engineer is going to put his nuts on the line and approve a CF bonnet.

Just do it. All their stuff is good. Be aware that most GK-Tech arms have spherical joints, which depending on where you are might be anything from legal to impossible-to-make-legal, typically requiring at least an engineering cert to get approval. If you have an accident and need to claim insurance and it can be proved that a non-roadworthy modification contributed to the incident, then your insurers are perfectly within their rights to deny the claim. That means not just your damage, but the Porsche Taycan that also got written off. So balance your risk accordingly.

Yes. That would be the same 5 speed as the S13, basically. The 6 speed should bolt up to an S13's SR, but I won't make any promises on it fitting gearbox mounts, shifter holes, etc, because I don't know for sure. But it should be able to be made to work.

33 and 34 are essentially the same thing under their petticoats.

The process is very simply described in the Nistune documentation.

I have personally seen my car idling at 3° when the IACV was dirty and non-responsive. As reported by the ECU in Nistune. I connect to my ECU with Nistune (because it is Nistuned) and you can set the target idle rpm directly, which is what you can do with a proper Consult device. I would not expect that you can set the idle speed with your typical Consult reading software on a PC. Might be able to with some, but that requires a ton more confidence on the part of the person releasing the software! The IACV is essentially a stepper motor and how many "steps" the ECU is putting out is the requested opening. I think it is open loop, so if the IACV won't actually open (because dirty/broken) then I think the steps will just keep increasing until they hit the max. A realistic number for the output number of steps is something in the order of 50. Setting the idle speed is a juggling act between making a physical adjustment on the screw on the IACV so that the ECU can run the stepper motor in the middle of its useful control range so that it can maintain the correct speed across the full range of load and temperature variations you can expect.

Are we actually talking about the S15 6 speed?