GTSBoy

I would be more than surprised if any Splitfire was more powerful than any other Splitfire. There is no real difference between a Splitfire made to suit a vanilla 25 and a Splitfire made to suit a Neo25, except the physical fitting. Your research is faulty. Whoever is saying that one is stronger than the other is smoking crack. (And it is not that hard to work out that if you have a Neo engine, you need Neo coils.) And if Kudos are really wanting over $800 for a set these days, it is madness to even consider buying them when the step up to some R35 coils is not that far.

ATTKD.

Yes. And no. What Ben is trying to say is that the sync timing is not the idle timing. Manuals (RBs) should idle at 15°. Many of the autos idle at 20° because it makes them have a little more torque at idle which is needed to keep the engine working against the load of the torque converter. The sync timing just means that the ECU knows what the actual engine angle is. The actual timing that is run at any moment is then simply what one table or another in the ECU demands. 4000rpm and 20 psi of boost? Likely to be about 20°. That's 20° exactly, because the ECU knows where zero is (because the ECU was told where 10° was).

The MC most certainly could be bypassing. It could also be too small! You have a lot more piston area at the calipers now.

Um.....the sound you're talking about comes from cams.

You have damaged your turbo. The only question is "how close to f**ked is it?"

No. The TCU is in the ECU. They accept Nistune just fine and can continue to run an auto or a manual engine with no troubles. What you are thinking of is certain combos of autos with separate TCUs and PowerFCs.

It's a bit small, even for a housing location. Even a 40mm might be a bit tight.

No such thing. They're all f**ked.

Some context is always helpful. How did a newish BMW get so f**ked up?

I'm not sure what you are talking about. 1 bolt at the bottom. 2 at the top. I can get the front out of my car in about 4 minutes or the back out in slightly longer because the top bolts are harder to reach. And then it just falls out of the car.

If you have spring compressors, then take the extra 15 minutes to jack the car up and remove the suspension unit. Dismantle it and put it back together properly. It's only going to take 15 minutes.

Take the door apart, look inside, see what's broken/dislodged, and fix it.

If it is a stock form spring going into the stock spring seat, but without the rubber insulator, then it will likely be quite a lot noisier. This from the generous contact area of a stock form spring up against the large diaphragm of the perch. If the spring is lowered & stiffer, that loss of 10mm or so of installed compression may make it just possible for the spring to become non-captive at full droop, which will probably be fine 99.99% of the time but every now and then it is a recipe for disaster.

Same same.

You could enquire about either Mallala or The Bend. Hiring the whole facility just to use the straight for some testing would probably be horrifically expensive. But you may be able to work in with someone else who is hiring the track, either for engineering/testing purposes of their own, or a club track day where you could arrange to have the straight at lunchtime, say.

Whether or not it is external gate and whether or not the gate is plumbed back in would have to be the biggest contributor to the noise. Beyond that I can't help you. As I would be 100% oriented in the other direction from your priorities. How it works matters >> than how it sounds.

There is dead, and there is dead. What part of the alternator has died? Rectifier? Winding gone open? Dirty commutator? Diagnose properly, then fix. If this means taking it to a sparky, then do so.

Or the worst thing that can happen is that the outer has slipped on the pulley.

Personally, I always like to make sure what has actually died before splashing out on a new one.

Yuh, moderately poor retrim job.

Vacuum leak.

Oops yes. 9". No matter. What's a half inch between friends?

An FFP is akin to an FFS!

They're definitely not for any R of S chassis Nissan, that's for sure. Vendor is a fu(kwit.