GTSBoy

Um.... the 19" part of it should make no difference to this problem at all. Although it does depend on what exactly is hitting where. But first.....8" wide wheels with a +30 offset should fit without hitting anything. People put R33 GTR wheels on these cars all the time. They are 17x8 +30. No problems. Usually an 8" wide wheel will be done with a +35 or +38 offset which would be MORE LIKELY to hit the suspension than a +30 would, and these are fine too. And no, the difference between 17" and 19" wheels should not make any difference here. Again, except for one issue, which we will cover next. 19" wheels with 245/40 tyres on them have a total diameter of 678.6mm. The more-or-less-correct size for these cars is a 235/45 on a 17" rim (or other combos that are approximately the same). That size wheel & tyre has an OD of 643.3mm. So the tyres you're trying to squeeze into that wheel well are 35mm overall bigger, or they stick out radially from the centre of the hub by an extra 17mm. So this is where we come back to where I said earlier, "It depends on what exactly is hitting where". Now, I refuse to believe that any part of the wheel is hitting on anything (so long as the wheel specs you have given are correct). But I am perfectly willing to believe that the tyre diameter is just too big and you are able to hit stuff that you shouldn't if you have the correct size tyre. The correct size tyre, at 245 wide on that 19" rim, would be 235/35. That would give an OD of 647mm, which is only slightly bigger than "correct". There aren't really any alternatives around those sizes that won't be either drastically too wide or too small in sidewall height.

Can you wind the engine over by hand? Either at the crank bolt or by pushing the car in gear. Reason I ask, is, if it's not low voltage and it's not the starter, then the engine may be seized or full of water.

RPM is pulses. The pattern should be shown in the workshop manual. I can't be arsed looking it up. Fuel level is a resistor.

Compression ring failure <> oil control ring failure. Could be ring/bore wear or valve guides. Take it apart and find out.

I thought R33 GTR was same as 32. My bad. Just put R33 lid on 32 ECU?

Unless it was just the brake pedal clevis adjuster that was cranked too long.

What are you talking about? The part number remains the same. On an RB26 ECU, you pull the lid off, rip out the original EEPROM/processor (depending on ECU model) and install the Nistune board (which does involve a little more fiddling than I make it sound). Then you put the lid back on. From the outside, you cannot tell. Anyone who does not know what a daughterboard is for would not even recognise what had happened to the ECU if you showed them the inside.

And this is why Nistune is the win. It looks stock. It behaves exactly as if it was stock, unless the tune is modified. You can put the stock tune in it for emissions testing and then you can put a good tune back in it afterwards. What is not to like?

Plus, Nistune is almost undetectable.

Check voltage at big 12V terminal on the starter. If it is too low, then your cable/connections is/are bad. If it is essentially the same as the battery, then the big power switch in the solenoid is likely to be f**ked up.

DIY wiring.

Just quoting this for its intrinsic value.

Why would you consider staying with a stock ECU without at least Nistuning it?

I am of the opinion that you should be able to retune both the fuel and ignition from even before you do any physical mods. The factory tune is just too rich, and there is heaps of stupidity in the high load high rpm corners of both maps in old Nissan tunes. You will gain power, driveability and reduced fuel consumption from a tuneable ECU all on it's own.

Wider clearances from wear mean (normal) thin oil escapes too easily, leading to lower pressure and more death.

It looks like an R32 ECU. The board you removed is the knock board that was part of the design of Nissan/Hitachi ECUs back then. You would be well advised to go to Nistune's website and look for the installation instructions on Nistune daughterboards which will show similar images of various ECUs, including R32/Z32 era stuff. Another option is just to google image search R32 ECU and you will almost certainly turn up internal shots, so that you can compare numbers on the main EEPROM (the one with the MEC number on it) and the circuit boards.

Hmm. 78k. Divided by 20 years. That's, um.... about....um....less than 4000km per year. And you believe that? It might have been 78k km in 2007.

And put an insulating plastic cover over the +ve terminal!

You sound young. Here's a tip. Don't spend money on this car. As in, don't spend money you don't need to. Repairs to keep it going are fine. Don't get an idea that you need a new exhaust if the old one is working, then save up your pennies and throw it at the car the instant you have enough. Same with seats, wheels, etc. A new exhaust that is better than the old exhaust is only a good idea when the old exhaust is full of holes. New seats are a waste of money unless the old seats are buggered and/or will fail a roadworthy. Same with wheels, headlight globes, air filters, spark plug leads, etc etc etc. Own the car for a while. Decide if you like it. Save some money to NOT spend on the car. Do all these things, before getting carried away with throwing money at the car. In the meantime you will either fall in love with the car, or it will reveal itself to be a horrible money pit that you would be better off swapping for a Yaris (or it could do both). There is nothing worse than seeing every young lad follow the same path of throwing a ton of money into the first shitter that they get their hands on and every last dollar of that is effectively wasted. Now, I'm not ragging on you or your car. I'm sure that there are a few good R31s left out there and yours could be one of them. (But most of them have been used as mobile bong smoke storage devices for the last 25 years, so the odds are not real good!) I'm just giving you a free life lesson. And so, if you actually do have to replace the exhaust, then yes, a 2.5" system is a decent size for the power level. If you put a decent mid muffler in it and a Magnaflow or similar rear of a decent size it will give it a clean RB sound without it being too loud. Don't bother with stainless. Mild will likely outlast the car. If you want to spend time with the car doing things that make it look good and you feel good about it, there is nothing better than buying some cloths and some Meguiars (or similar) paint cleaning and polishing products and spending time bringing the paint and other surfaces back from whatever state they are currently in. Also, look to do thorough inspections on the brakes, the suspension bushes and arms etc, looking for wear, collapse, etc that will both cost you money and be a horrible safety problem if they fail while you're driving. Better to spend your time and effort learning about the things that really matter. Learn how to jack and support the car safely (so it won't fall on you and so the stands don't damage the underside of the car!) and start taking a close look at all the dirty bits.

On a 200mm long spanner, that's equivalent to hanging a big bucket of water on the end of the spanner. It's barely more than "done up by your 5 yr old daughter" tight.

What do you mean "one end is a little longer"? Are you talking about what you can see on the outside, or what the internals look like? Given that the cone end on both the fitting and the filter appear to be the same length, I would expect that the union would need/want to be the same both ends internally. The difference in length in the external hexes is really just to provide the room for the union swivel (I should imagine).

You don't really torque studs in the head. You just screw them in (until they stop) and the nut that clamps the manifold pulls on both ends of the stud when you torque it up.

Yuh, that filter clearly meant to go on the block, assuming that the hose in the photo is both ends of the same hose.

Yeah. Nah.

The definition of polyquad is to have one large and one small valve on each of the inlet and exhaust, with the large ones diagonally opposite each other. The intention is to have more flow in through the larger intake which will create a swirl and then the outflow through the exhaust will be higher through the large exhaust valve also, continuing the swirl and at the very least leaving the remaining gas in the cylinder swirling as the inlet opens and starts flowing again. You have to have quite extreme differences in valve sizes for it to really work. It's not something that you will see much out of with 1mm size differences (IIRC the original work, which by Vizard, I think. if not him, then someone equivalent).