GTSBoy

The fuse protects the wires in that circuit. Clearly one of those wires or a device attached to those wires has a pretty good short to ground. Dig out the multimeter and start looking for ground where there shouldn't be. You will also need the wiring diagram and will likely need to unplug a lot of loom plugs.

No. You said you had it on hand. The logical suggestion then was to recommend that you do some work yourself to compare rack A with rack B, instead of just doing the Gen Y bleat on a forum. It's not my fault that you didn't tell the truth.

The joke here is that I copied and pasted the title of your thread into google!

Crazy 1980's tech in-line amplifier. Speaker level into it and "amplified" inside it. Used to be a graphic equaliser and LED display that got bolted under the dash in Datto Stanzas back in 1985.

My post from earlier was >>50% of car value at the time. All insurers are different. That was with Just Car at the time, they were perfectly willing to pay to repair it at the fraction of insured value that it was at, but would have struggled to justify if it became any more expensive. Shannons, being another even more "classic & unusual" insurers, would and should be just as willing. I will caveat my statement though. My repair was not at fault, even though it was front end damage like (but much worse than) the OP's. So my insurer was working for me and my interests and was willing to put up a fight against the other party's insurer to make them pay. If the OP's to blame for his damage, then he might not get treated quite as nicely.

literally less than 1 second of googling https://www.efisolutions.com.au/water-pipe-spigot-rear-rb25det-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc3

In all seriousness, why do you not just go jack the car up and hold the 34 one under the 33 one and have a look for yourself?

It will work. It is the very definition of it will work.

I think the best way to deal with the boost sensor's inherent upper limit would be to treat it like a wastegate and put a bleed valve on it. You put a restriction between the plenum source and the sensor, and bleed some boost out of the sense line between that restriction and the sensor. Just like a wastegate, the sensor will see a lower boost than the engine does. If you need to run 25 psi, you just bleed that down to <18 psi and it will still do what it is supposed to do.

Yes, equivalent fluids are fine.

The "trans" and the "gearbox" are the same thing. You don't have a manual gearbox, so you don't want/need gearbox oil. You'll just use the Matic J. And for the diff, literally any conventional diff oil will do the job. There is nothing special going on back there. So yes, the exact same stuff recommended for the 370 will do.

Boost sensor can be dealt with in Nistune.

Just get a the sphincter of the universe. Record the noise it makes when you let off a firework behind it and hook it up to an electronic BOV simulator.

There are different states you know. SA Uni holidays finish right now. 1st day of 2nd semester tomorrow. Most 1st year Uni students are still mentally 12 years old.

It will go in the spot where it fell off from. You will need to do the looking inside the door.

Probably the igniter.

Open the ECU and take a photo for us.

2nd had part offered for sale in the classifieds section of the forum. (This forum, in case that wasn't clear).

There's no reason to use extended studs on any bolt on spacer. None at all.

The basic premise of the thread is stupid. As if there is an unmolested R32 out there!!!! The reason that this was labelled a school holiday post, is that this is exactly what about 20000 retarded 16 year old bum fluffers have asked on here in the first week of school holidays every school holidays for the past 25 years.

You need an EBC that will keep the wastegate shut until it needs to be open. If that is not happening, then your 700+rpm disappointment has a cause.

And they turn up in any search on eBay.

My R32 was much more comprehensively f**ked than that and got repaired when it was possibly only worth ~10k (8 years ago).

You don't want the Australian VIN. You want the chassis number off the original Nissan Japan plate.

RWD cars defo had one off the trans crossmember. AWD cars have a different crossmember in a different spot, which may or may not make it harder, but I'm pretty sure that they had a support off that too.