GTSBoy

This is a troll, right?

This is particularly nonsensical. 245 wide tyres belong on at least an 8" rim, if not an 8.5 or 9". At 8", a 235 +35 will fit absolutely fine. A 245 will also fit just fine. However, at 8", a +18 offset is stupidly low for an R32 and you would expect the wheel to hang out of the guard. You would NOT expect it to hit the suspension. What width wheel are you talking about?

What do you know about RBs?

You're not going to do it with either of those. Injectors too small (and too old and shitty). Coils are shit. Upgrade to at least Splitfire, if not Yaris coils or R35 type coils. Fuel pump is probably too small too.

Oh. FFS!

Many years ago, the factory plastic top tank on my R32 cracked. New alloy tanked rad went. Some years after that, a f**kstain caused me to make severe contact with the side of his car using the front of my car. Along with much panel work, a new radiator and new FMIC went into my car. 8 years later (2 months ago), a seized fan clutch caused excessive suction on radiator, pulled it into contact with the fan blades and cracked the end of one of the tubes. New radiator went into my car. That's 3 new rads in 27 years of car life and 20 years of my ownership. Nothing unusual there, and despite having have front end repairs, it is still one of the best condition R32s around. And it is a manual converted ex-auto car too.

It's a really unquantifiable value proposition there. It so much depends on who is looking at the car. There's a bathtub curve in value for these cars. While the price is down in the bottom of the curve, clean unmodified ones are not worth a great deal more than ones that are a little rougher or have some (properly done) mods on them. Once they start to climb up the appreciation side of the curve again (assuming that they do) then the value of "clean, unmodified" will start to become a bigger thing, because the reason that they climb the curve is because people are looking to get "one of the last good ones", or similar reasoning. R34s have sort of started recovering in value, but they're not as far back up the curve as R32s are (for example), so the difference between "clean, unmodified" and otherwise is not yet as big as it might be in a little while. And every buyer will tell you that the car is worth $10k less than you would like for it. That's the nature of trying to sell anything in the Gen-Y world.

Most of that mod list makes little difference. Your limits will come from the injectors/pump, or the boost limit before it knocks. You can work out how much air the turbo will pump at different boost levels if you have the speed sensor installed (and connected to something that can read it). Otherwise, you can look at the RB26 dyno results thread for other RB26s with the 8374 on, (https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/) or the BW EFR thread here also.

The "big service" doesn't change the value of the car at all. The pod filter is neutral. Some people will like it, some will want to get rid of it. Plus or minus value depending on who's looking. The gearbox mount is a small consideration, as is the HICAS delete (both are good, neither are expensive to do). Ditto the Splitfires. The Mishimoto radiator will be seen as a hard negative by anyone who knows them (and their lack of quality). Will cost buyer to replace it. Otherwise, it's worth $15-20k. You could argue that it's worth more and advertise it for $25k and see who bites. Might move, or might not. Publicly visible asking prices and actual sale prices only every have so-so relationship to each other.

And 350Z and 370Z.

That's because they are dead old and there have been a billion other Brembo calipers turn up on cars since.

No. AAC means Auxiliary Air Control. It is just that. Auxiliary, as in extra. IACV is Idle Air Control Valve. Is the actual idle air stepper motor controlled by the ECU.

Cold start is AAC. Idle control is IACV.

It is freely downloadable from any of a gazillion links that you will find if you google it. You want the R32 GTR service manual. It has RB20 stuff in it too, because it covers GTS4.

Don't do this. If there is a fault in the wiring that has damaged the relevant circuit in the ECU, then swaptronics is a good way to kill another ECU.** Instead, why not look into the health of the loom? Point to point check the wiring with a multi-meter. Use the wiring diagrams in the manual to show you what you should be looking for and where. ** Granted, the power for this valve does not come directly out of the ECU, so the risk to your spare ECU in this circumstance is not high. I'm just making a point that you need to think about what you're doing, instead of risking spare parts. Swaptronics is bad practice.

Well, the DE ports are small, so they will become a restriction on max power long before they would on a DET head. It's not surprising that you start to hit a wall. Your options are to use a DET head or spend some time/money in digging the extra metal out of the ports. I know which would be easier! Freddy intake is neither here nor there as far as power is concerned. You will make the power just as easily with a stock plenum. So if you're planning to change it for power reasons, spend the money elsewhere.

The circuit for this is clearly shown in the R32 GTR manual.

What ^ he said. If you ever open the motor up again, put some higher CR pistons into it too.

Well, look, the engine is f**ked right now. You should rebuild it just in case that scratch is the warning that something is about to break away/seize the piston/wreck a valve/turbo/etc. If you do that, then whatever the very likely other cause of the rough running will still be there when you try to start up the freshy and run it in, which won't be good. So fix both.

NOx is the big one. Diesel combustion temperatures are quite different to petrol, both at partial load and at full load. Diesel runs very lean at partial load so has different NOx problems than petrol does. Hence why they're down the Urea injection rabbithole these days. For OEMs trying to meet Euro and US emissions regs, fuel consumption targets, engine life expectancy & warranty boundaries, the space they have to work in is a very tiny portion of the N-dimensional space. So they can't have a combination of high SC and boost and not give up ground in at least one of the other dimensions of their design space. It's a bigger nastier version of "cheap/fast/light pick any 2".

Emissions.

A couple of things to note. The adapters pictures on the UAS page are not for 280mm calipers spaced out to 324. They are for 296mm calipers (R33 GTST or R32 GTR) spaced out to 324. Note that they are offset in a weird shape. The GKTech ones pictured are definitely for spacing out 280mm > 324mm. I must stress that UAS probably have the correct adapters and will probably send the right ones to you. But if you do choose to buy from them, just double check that they haven't accidentally crossed the streams! Also, the pad shape/curvature of the Sumitomo calipers is not completely great on the 324mm rotors. They tend to hang off the rotor a bit. If you're going to buy these for a test fit, you should also make some rings our of plywood that slip on the OD of the 280mm rotor to take the outside edge of it out to 324, so you can see the location of the pad relative to the rotor before you decide to go ahead. There has been plenty posted about this before, showing what people have done. It's not insurmountable, just something you should know about before proceding.

How did you manage to attribute that quote to me?

Oh, c'mon. We're talking about systems for making stupid power out of dirty old RB engines here. We're not talking about OEM refinement and longevity. Put the crack pipe down and appreciate the fact that most people playing with this level of detonation prevention are going to take the car apart every few years and/ore break shit and/or do another engine transplant and/or get bored and move on to another car in far less time than you are worrying about.

Well, yeah, because E85 isn't available everywhere and it has significant negative effects on the range of the car. It's great when you've got it everywhere you go. It's great for many racers (but not for others where pit stop refuelling time lost might be an issue). It's not great if the car is E85 only (because it can't be made to run safely on 98 if you've gone crazy with the compression + boost, etc), and you can't use flex tuning to get you by. E85 certainly made it easy to sidestep the hassles surrounding putting WMI onto a car, but only where any of the above are not application killers for you. If you don't have easy access to E85, or you have to drive across Australia, etc etc, then WMI is still your leading option if you want to push well past what 98 alone can handle. A 10L WMI reservoir will last nearly forever in many applications. Certainly more than a few tanks of fuel. Unless you're caning it on the track that is.