GTSBoy

OK. I can see that being the case. But if you live in the land of "only switching between 4.08, 4.11, 4.36" like most Skyliners, then you never encounter it. Now I perhaps understand why the crownwheel is thicker on some of the smaller numerical ratio diffs. The two stubs being the same (unequal) lengths and just swapped side to side between the different cases is a new one to me. I'm hating Nissan R200s more than ever now.

Actually, the best option is probably to get some of the stronger aftermarket driveshafts that have both the 5x1 and 3x2 pattern on them, so OP can do whatever the hell OP likes with the diff in the future and not have all this angst. I posted a link to them sometime in the last 2 weeks, I'm sure.

AFAIK, the length of the shafts has NOTHING to do with the ratio of the diff.

Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to sell even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.

Yes. This engine cost a very large amount of money to build. It's a Frankenstein necessitating lots of custom parts and lots of fabrication and fettling to get things like big ends to clear the bottom of the bore, etc etc. The rods and bolts were supplied by the owner. Hence why the rods were Chinesium. Some lessons need to be learned the (very, very) hard way, apparently. I was aware of the stories going back about that far as well. I just wanted to see if the reality was as bad as the fear.

It's in the bloody domain name twice! Yes...the GTR boxen have, for some reason, been cheaper than the RWD boxen for a long time. 10 years ago the GTST box was available here for <AU$3k. 5 years ago the GTT box was available for ~AU$3300. Both retail through 3rd party. Now the GTT box is >4k locally and only available for less if you're willing to jump through some hoops. Apparently they can be ordered from Nissan dealers for $3-3.5k at trade pricing. A friend of mine has a new GTT box sitting on his showroom floor that I keep wanting to hit him up for but I'd somewhat rather he sold it to someone else at his asking price than to me for a mate's rates discount.

Hi Gents, Someone I know (experienced engine builder) built an engine. It had some chinesium rods that came with ARP 2000 bolts. One failed on the dyno, destroyed the whole thing. The only possibilities are: Installation error. Possible, but we should discount it almost 100% because he knows what he's doing. He doesn't discount it that much, because he's being hard on himself. QC/QA problems with ARP products. I'd like to discount this, but I have heard a number of stories about similar failures, and stories of some builders buying 2 sets of everything, x-raying everything, and picking only those bolts that they are completely happy with. This behaviour coming from anecdotal stories of ~1% failure rates. 1% of all rod bolts failing would be about 1000x higher than I would expect to be anywhere near tolerable. If I were ARP I certainly wouldn't even be selling the product if they were dying at that rate (for non-installation error reasons). So, I would prefer to discount that possibility too. Fakes. Specifically, fakes being sold bundled with cheap rods sets from CCP factory B in Shenzen, or wherever the stuff is being made this week. So the question here is, does anyone else have some horror stories that would point to fakes being circulated in this manner?

That's tempting to me, but I don't know how to not f**k you around, given I'm interstate.

Yes, well, then the possibly lean(er) look of #6 makes sense. #4 looks oil wet, not rich.

There are no $1000 options, if that's what you're asking.

Has this got an FFP?

Define "Nissan big brakes". You just mean standard R34 4 pots? And...it's not even the offset you need to worry about. It's really a detail of how much clearance there is between the caliper and the back of the spoke/face, which is affected more by the design of the spoke than it is by the offset. If you think about it....take any wheel, say a 19x8 that does fit and clears the caliper. Then add or subtract an inch of wheel on the outside, without changing anything else. You have changed the offset by half an inch, but not changed the clearance situation at all. Same for if you add or subtract an inch from the inside edge. The way for you to work this out is to take a wheel off the car, grab a straight edge and a ruler or two, and start to measure the distances from the wheel mounting face on the hub to the outer face of the caliper, and the outer diameter (that faces the barrel of the wheel) of the caliper. Armed with these dimensions and any other measurement that grabs your fancy while you are there, you can then go to the seller of the wheels and do the reverse measurements from the wheel's mounting face and see if there will be clearance to the caliper. There really should be. I have 17x8 RPF1s +35 clearing the caliper face by a finger tip. Those wheels do have pretty thin spokes with some curvature.... but then so do most wheels to suit Jap cars.

Mmmm. Perhaps more correctly stated that the one turbo doesn't actually force air back down the throat of the other. All it does, and all it has to do, is be pumping a little harder than the other turbo (which is an effect of how the turbos are getting driven by the exhaust and inherent resistance to output air flow that each turbo sees up to the merge). If the turbo that is not flowing quite as much then nudges the stall line (because it gets pushed there by the higher flowing one stealing the limelight and moving its own operating point further from the stall line), then you get the behaviour described by Josh. There is no need for air to move backwards in any way. It just needs to be less air moving forwards than is required to stay to the right of the surge line.

And if you have to drive it in a civilised (or excessively woke) US state, find a way to register and insure it in a redneck state, so you can roll coal in it without worrying about legalities.

I have seen the aftermath of a rotten old stock fan. It took apart the shroud, wrecked some other stuff (PS or A/C, IIRC) and damaged the bonnet. Not ideal. Sometimes they die more gracefully. Sometimes they live for years and years looking like they should come apart. The GKTech fan is not different to how it ever was. At least as far as I know. Whether it is any good or not is more a question of what climate you're using it in. In Canuckistan it seldom gets hot enough for the capability of the fan to matter as much as it does here in Fourex. So you should be able to use it without too much concern. You can always sell it to a driftkid in an S14 if you don't like it.

For more clarity - because the sedan tailights are square-cornered where the coupe ones are round, and because the coupe boot lid doesn't work on the sedan, the method to do this has been to cut the sedan bootlid/reshape that part where they are different. Plus more f**king around. There are old threads on here such as where it gets discussed and it hardly seems worth the pain.

Yuh, so... it's not a done thing.

I would say 100% that it doesn't matter at all. I have an Al bonnet and I drop it sometimes, push it others. Have done so for 25 years and there's no way to tell that either has caused any problems (because there are no problems).

Shouldn't be. CAS can't make the engine run fast. It will either run or it won't. (Ignoring possible high load/rpm signal jitter problems).

look again

Massive arsed vacuum leak.

50L plastic butcher's bins with or w/o lids are good for storing various parts and smaller boxes of part on shelves. I've taken to writing a manifest on blank paper in texta and sticking it on the front of any such box, whether it is that sort of tub or just a cardboard box. Ditto to smaller boxes inside. I can not give you ideas on how to be more ruthless or better organised than that, because I suspect that my shed is worse than yours.

Was correct without the edit.

All 4 wires from the head unit into the converter. That's both channels, so you do not lose any bass information that might be in one channel and not the other (which decent music should have, but I'm sure the shit that the kids these days are listening to probably doesn't). Connecting both channels with alleviate the floating input problem highlighted by Greg above. As to what you should do with the outputs from it - they should also both be connected to 2 input channels of an amp that can sum the two channels and yield a single low passed output to a single channel. There is often a switch on channel amps to achieve that goal. If you're just listening to modern electronic music, then you can probably ignore the fact that there's two channels and just listen to one of them. If there is missing information it will probably only improve it by not being able to hear it anyway.

You don't think he should leave it to torch the heat hoses?