Jump to content
SAU Community

GTSBoy

Members
  • Posts

    17,879
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    265
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. It can be worth experimenting with adding a Helmholtz resonator to some systems, particularly if it is one tone that drones excessively. This is a short(ish) length of pipe teed off the side of the main pipe, ending in a dead end. The length tunes the frequency at which it works. You have to experiment to find the right length. There's a recent youtube vid where someone did it, might be worth a look.
  2. Typical LLM response. Nearly completely useless. Says nothing that wasn't already known, with no useful details.
  3. Straight thru's have so little restriction that it's almost certainly not worth worrying about effects on tuning. Even a centre offset shouldn't upset things, but would be noticeably more effective (quiet).
  4. Centre-offset muffler under the floor, same as stock. Just....3.5". The change from straight pipe there to centre-offset will mean that you need to remake some of the pipe (add a bend or two).
  5. A million years later, searching for something else I posted, I was reminded of this thread. I eventually bought a new gauge. Put it in using the same probe (which has been installed the whole time stopping the exhaust gas from coming out the hole) and.... normal service has been resumed. The old gauge was definitely broken. /semi-pointless closure.
  6. I thought the only (new) BM57 that was readily available was the one that was a BM57 but with the wrong bias. HFM or someone's?
  7. You could try some less aggressive pads on the rear. I found (a long time ago when all my brakes were stock 32) that using the same (Bendix Ultimate) pads at both ends made the rear bias excessive. I strongly suspect that the stock Nissan pads probably use a different material, but aftermarket pads will usually be the same material regardless of what pad they are put onto. That bias situation did get better when I put R33 calipers on the front AND used the same pads - just transferred them from old to new calipers. So you should feel the difference with the change you're making. But certainly do not forget the option to change the rear pads down a grade or two.
  8. Will these fit on my Honda?
  9. Post up the manual extract and the wiring diagram (seeing as we've got no idea what type of car we're talking about here) to help with decision making. (Also, I'm nowhere near home and my wiring diagrams and manuals). I wouldn't suggest you do what you mentioned above on such a vague description, for a start! Depends on whether the power is from the ECU or the ground is at the ECU.
  10. OK, that explains it. The auto NAs are not something that even enter my thinking 99.9% of the time. If you put a small turbo box into it then you could use an appropriate speedo sender in that and connect to the dash. The caveat there is that I have no idea if the calibration of the dash would be even close to correct. It might not even work. I do not know how the diff mounted speed sender works, and there is every possibility that it is different to the signal generated from the gearbox mounted sensors. I would suggest hooking an oscilloscope up to your speed signal from sender to dash and recording the waveform at some known speeds.
  11. R34 vehicle speed sensor is in the gearbag.
  12. OK, so, assuming that there is nothing wrong with either the original or new boost sensor, then it would seem that there might be something wrong in the loom wiring to that sensor. This is troublesome, because if that were true, then you might expect the problem to persist when the sensor was unplugged. But seeing as the voltage comes good when it is unplugged, it would suggest that the fault might (and I stress might) be right at the loom plug. Either that, or the fault might be at the ECU, on the line in from the boost sensor. When you unplug the boost sensor, that input at the ECU is isolated from the TPS sensor and can't affect it. This would be semi-bad, as an ECU problem is never welcome, but at least you'd know where the problem is and it might be fixable, or at least replaceable. Do you have Nistune, or any other way of looking at ECU data? I'd want to drive the car around with the boost sensor unplugged and see the TPS working properly, then not working properly with the sensor plugged back in. You're not trying to run more than ~18 psi either? Right? Because even with Nistune that can be difficult with the boost sensor connected. Just checking, in case it might have some bearing on the issue. It shouldn't cause the voltage situation you're seeing though.
  13. Where you say "boost solenoid" in the 2nd paragraph, did you mean "boost sensor" as in the 3rd paragraph? You then go on to call it a boost solenoid again. Just need to know if you're talking about all 3 things or only 2 things and mixing terms for one of them.
  14. Where is this boost of 15-20 psi that you speak off. Surely not in the turbo inlet. You're more at risk of something being sucked in! I started typing "40mm rubber" into google and the 8th or 9th suggestion down the popup list was "cap", which yields this hit page https://www.google.com/search?q=40mm+rubber+cap&sca_esv=f17a4364060591de&source=hp&ei=rD1qZvC8Aq7vseMPoPmJuAw&iflsig=AL9hbdgAAAAAZmpLvAb3yMtgJDfUlLaPWSQoYci6lDgU&oq=40mm+rubber+&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6Igw0MG1tIHJ1YmJlciAqAggIMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABEi9RVAAWOENcAB4AJABAJgBzgGgAbURqgEGMC4xMS4xuAEByAEA-AEBmAIMoAKrEsICCxAAGIAEGLEDGIMBwgIIEAAYgAQYsQOYAwCSBwYwLjEwLjKgB646&sclient=gws-wiz
  15. I will also have to claim the defence that I have never really cared about twins. I must be mis-remembering that people preferred the larger power of the -7s over the better matched setup of the -9s.
  16. Just that it's smaller than the "best" choice out of the available options.
  17. Which can be translated into English as "waste of time"/"good"/"too big"/"stupid".
  18. R32 fuel gauge definitely stays at the current reading when turned off. It will not show a new reading (ie if it was low and you just filled up) until it is turned on, at which point it should sweep from empty to full in only a few seconds.
  19. The front speakers in an R32 are 6x4s which is a shit size. You can fit 6.5" woofers or coaxials in there but you need to make a mounting board from MDF. I have a post on here somewhere showing what I made. You can fit 6.5" in the parcel shelf easily enough. If upgrading the head unit, the stock speaker wiring is not really fat enough to run big speakers (ie the wires into the doors or up to the rear) because the amplifiers are located next to the speakers. Running new speaker wires front and rear is a good idea anyway.
  20. Depends on whether the speakers or the amps or the wiring are dead.
  21. I can think of two places in my city of <1.5million population that specialise in automotive instrument repairs.Unless you're out in the wilds of Quebec, you have 3 major Canadian and 3 major US cities within the same distance as the single nearest city to mine. Surely there is somewhere you could send it.
×
×
  • Create New...